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14 bolt does not run true.

nedceifus

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riddle me this. I've had a wobble in the rear of 8low. I've been thinking tires out of balence, wheel out of round. I jacked the rear & watched the tires. Wheels & tires rose & fell while turning. So I unbolted thoes wheels & threw on a hubcentric H2 wheel, same thing. Took that wheel off. Watched the bare hub, it rose & fell while rotating. Then I took the axle out & spun the hub, same thing. Only thing I can figure is the hub is machined wrong, or out of round.
 
Both sides? Cause normally it's whatever side slid into the curb during a PO burnout
 
But even if the spindle is bent the hub would run true to the spindle. If it were a 9" I could see a bent axle making the hub wobble. On a 14 bolt I can't see it.
 
Honestly, from my perspective you need a different hub. The axle itself looks true (it is a video with a hand held device, so may be deceiving) and the studs look true, but the hub looks to have been machined off center, you can watch the hub change "diameter" and the studs don't seem to move. The hub looks so ot of balance that it might be your issue.
 
This is off a 14 bolt I had sitting outside. To me it looks better. That damn casting tab throws a guy off a little.
 
I did not want to swap from side to side. The hub on the other side acts just like this one. I honestly think that the hub I swapped form outside is better. I'll probably go get new seals & swap both hubs. May be the two that are on my truck are out of the same batch & have the same macheneing flaw. IDK, all I do know is that I want to drive this thing to Moab in March & it's going to be a long trip with the rear end bouncing the whole way.
 
I did not want to swap from side to side. The hub on the other side acts just like this one. I honestly think that the hub I swapped form outside is better. I'll probably go get new seals & swap both hubs. May be the two that are on my truck are out of the same batch & have the same macheneing flaw. IDK, all I do know is that I want to drive this thing to Moab in March & it's going to be a long trip with the rear end bouncing the whole way.

The hub appears to be running true but someone didn't get the rotor centered properly when it was pressed together. I'll lay odds that the heads of the wheel studs are too large to fit in the rotors recessed holes and that is allowing the rotor to not center properly. I had to machine the heads of all the studs down a bit in order to get the studs to fit into the recessed holes of the rotor.
 
So for 30 years this problem went unnoticed? Something else is up. Take an indicator like you would setting up gear backlash and set that on the wheel hub where the hub centric wheel would sit.

That is the true machined surface to measure. Cast will give the illusion and from the video I'd pay closer attention to the way the rotor is seated.
 
Spare hub ran out .005
Original hub ran out .030
I don't know what that equates to at the end of a 37" tire but I'll use the better hub of the two.
 

Second video. I wish there was an easy way to know what the runout on the lug studs was, being my H1 wheel centers are not hubcentric.
 
I did alot of research on this when I built my h1 rims.

Having an axial run-out of 0.000 is pretty much impossible.

I can't say much on hubs but most wheels have a standard of about 0.030 axial runout.
In addition your not loaded, that can make a difference in the lateral and axial.

If it is the hub the bounce will get worse as you go faster.

For reference, my Hummer rims I decided to make 0.030 my limit. Right after I did them took it out on the freeway, 75 mph was fine on unbalanced 42" bias plys.

I really don't think your bounce is from the hub.

I'd also say that your value may range somewhat depending on how the bearings are.

Id throw it all together get a go pro or cheap alternative, then video the driveshaft, both wheels. Inside and outside, and both sides of the suspension.
 
I may be expecting too much, just want to get it as good as I can. I want to drive this thing to the Fullsize Invasion in March.
 
Cheap bearing race out of whack maybe? Or I guess the bearing itself could be screwed up? That’s all I got. Good luck! Carry on... do good burnouts when you fix it.
 

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