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14 bolt pinion carrier R&R

BoondocK5

Chevrolet Bone Collector
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My 14 bolt axle is leaking from the pinion carrier, so while I'm at it, I want to replace the pinion seal too.
So, can I just unbolt the pinion carrier, install a new pinion seal, then apply some silicone onto the mounting surface of the pinion carrier(is there a gasket?) and slap it back together using an impact to tighten the nut that hold the yoke on? Or, will I need to torque it to a specified rotational torque? (the amount of torque it requires to rotate the pinion)

I attempted a look into the 14 bolt bible, to no avail. It just listed rebuild procedures.:confused:

Thanks in advance.
 
The 14ff uses a crush sleeve and to do tha job properly will require a new crush sleeve and an in/lb dial type torque wrench. Many people have changed pinion seals though without using a new crush sleeve but it is a 50/50 chance you take of screwing it up. Too little pinion bearing preload or too much pinion bearing preload and you'll toast the pinion bearings in short order.
 
Is there such a thing as a mini kit that has the pinion seal, the gasket for the carrier, and a crush sleeve? for the crush sleeve, don't you just tighten it till it until you reach a certain range of torque to rotate the pinion?
 
Is there such a thing as a mini kit that has the pinion seal, the gasket for the carrier, and a crush sleeve? for the crush sleeve, don't you just tighten it till it until you reach a certain range of torque to rotate the pinion?

There is no gasket for the pinion support, there are shims which is for adjusting pinion depth and you WILL NOT be changing them if all you need to do is change the pinion seal. I am not aware of any "mini kit" but I can give you a GM part number for the crush sleeve as I have one sitting on my toolbox awaiting my next project (1410 pinion Yoke). Also all the crush sleeves i've ever done took almost 10 tons to get them to start to crush, once they start to crush they crush VERY QUICK and yes it is a given amount of rotational drag that you need to aquire (5-15 IN/LBS with used bearings or 25-35 IN/LBS for new bearings) and this requires a dial type or beam type torque wrench. I prefer a dial type since it is alot more accurate.
 
My kit from East coast gear supply, has a crush sleeve, silicone, pinion spacers, a few other things I can't remember now. $55.00 shipped
 
Ok Scott, hope you can help on this one. I seated the outer race against the lock ring. So I pull out the lock ring and put in the good bearing. Once I try to put the lock ring back in it won't go in. The bearing sticks out past the race a little bit. When I try to put the lock ring in it hits the cage of the bearing. There is not enough room. It is Timken number SET38. I could hardly sleep last night, could,nt get this off my mind. Thanks Scott.
 
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