Where I am it tickled 100.
By the way my big rig runs 210-215 all the time occasionally hitting 220 then back down.
They run cleaner at those temperatures.
As long as the cooling system is good and keeps it there.
CK5
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Ultimate cooling set up
- Thread starter Chris Ziemer
- Start date
By the way my big rig runs 210-215 all the time occasionally hitting 220 then back down.
They run cleaner at those temperatures.
As long as the cooling system is good and keeps it there.
Maybe I could have sworn they said triflow when I looking at them a few weeks ago.You must be looking at this radiator, thereabouts. I like it. I don’t know what else a guy could do.
67-76 Chevy GMC Pickup Truck Aluminum Performance Radiator
1967-1976 Chevy/GMC Truck Aluminum Performance Radiator. For use with 4 core mounting brackets and insulators. Or you can modify 3 core version. These COLD-CASE radiators are Tig welded 100 percent aluminum and absolutely beautiful. Don't buy a 3 or 4 row aluminum radiator! It doesn't cool as...www.coldcaseradiators.com
Disclaimer; I’ve never used a performance aluminum radiator like you guys are discussing.
I know there’s a big difference in individual row size (which affects the quantity used) but what about surface area vs cooling ability? Does having fewer huge rows actually cool better than more smaller rows? Can the cooling effects penetrate to all of the water volume before it exits the tube? It takes longer to make a gallon of water cold than a glass in the same refrigerator so I’m wondering if more smaller rows dissipate heat better than fewer bigger rows (does smaller = ultimately more efficient surface area).
Sort like the theory of removing a thermostat. People think it’ll cool better because you allow the water flow more but the reality is the water no longer stays in a given area long enough to absorb or dissipate the heat so it’s less effective.
I know there’s a big difference in individual row size (which affects the quantity used) but what about surface area vs cooling ability? Does having fewer huge rows actually cool better than more smaller rows? Can the cooling effects penetrate to all of the water volume before it exits the tube? It takes longer to make a gallon of water cold than a glass in the same refrigerator so I’m wondering if more smaller rows dissipate heat better than fewer bigger rows (does smaller = ultimately more efficient surface area).
Sort like the theory of removing a thermostat. People think it’ll cool better because you allow the water flow more but the reality is the water no longer stays in a given area long enough to absorb or dissipate the heat so it’s less effective.
I am sure there is a balance, or a ratio, of tube size and fin count.
I am beginning to be in the thinner for better air flow camp myself.
I am beginning to be in the thinner for better air flow camp myself.
I’m running the largest radiator GM offered for squares as in the 6.2 diesel/big block unit. I have the factory shroud combined with a HD fan clutch and a plastic fan off of a gmt800 truck. Keeps my 8.1 running at 180 90% of the time. I ran the same setup with a 5.3 LS and it actually struggled to maintain thermostat temp because it cooled so well even in 90 to 100 degree ambient temps.
With the big block it rarely goes hot enough to kick the fan clutch on. When it does, you know. It’s loud as hell. Temp falls quickly and the clutch kicks out. I’ve been in the desert southwest in 100 degree heat and higher and never once had it spike or overheat.
With the big block it rarely goes hot enough to kick the fan clutch on. When it does, you know. It’s loud as hell. Temp falls quickly and the clutch kicks out. I’ve been in the desert southwest in 100 degree heat and higher and never once had it spike or overheat.
What water pump are you using?
I had a brand new one from NAPA that wouldn't keep my big block under 210* in 80* ambient. I spent too much time and money trying an aluminum radiator, added extra coolant steam lines to the intake manifold, different thermostats, because everyone said that a new unit shouldn't be the problem.
I ran it that way until winter came and I noticed that I didn't have much heat in the cab.
So I spent the money for an Edelbrock water pump rather than gambling on another parts store unit. This completely cured my problem. I had more hest in the cab with a 160* T-stat, than with a 195* and the NAPA pump.
I went back to a 180* in it and closed the valves on the steam lines.
My point is, check for decent water movement somehow.
My '90 Jimmy is using a 4 row copper/brass radiator, new autozone water pump, a TBI fan clutch with an 11 blade Vortec plastic fan. It's a serpentine accessory drive. I use my A/C while wheeling on the rocks of Moab in 98* heat, in a black truck.
It's a 350 with aluminum heads and EFI.
So an Edelbrock pump isn't mandatory.
I do use Flow-cooler thermostats.
I had a brand new one from NAPA that wouldn't keep my big block under 210* in 80* ambient. I spent too much time and money trying an aluminum radiator, added extra coolant steam lines to the intake manifold, different thermostats, because everyone said that a new unit shouldn't be the problem.
I ran it that way until winter came and I noticed that I didn't have much heat in the cab.
So I spent the money for an Edelbrock water pump rather than gambling on another parts store unit. This completely cured my problem. I had more hest in the cab with a 160* T-stat, than with a 195* and the NAPA pump.
I went back to a 180* in it and closed the valves on the steam lines.
My point is, check for decent water movement somehow.
My '90 Jimmy is using a 4 row copper/brass radiator, new autozone water pump, a TBI fan clutch with an 11 blade Vortec plastic fan. It's a serpentine accessory drive. I use my A/C while wheeling on the rocks of Moab in 98* heat, in a black truck.
It's a 350 with aluminum heads and EFI.
So an Edelbrock pump isn't mandatory.
I do use Flow-cooler thermostats.
In 1989 my buddy put one of my old SBC’s in a ‘86 Yota and did a beautiful installation but had overheating issues constantly.
He could not figure out what was wrong because he had a healthy Land Cruiser FJ40 four row radiator and the S/D 7-blade fan and clutch setup - it was a mystery.
Then we all went over to check it out because he was at his wits end - he popped the hood and I noticed that he had an aluminum water pump ( this was in ‘89 so those weren’t readily available yet ) and he said he ordered it from a ‘87 Vette because he liked the aluminum look.
I pointed out that an ‘87 Vette had a serpentine belt setup and that his W/P impeller was turning backwards with a regular V-belt setup - swapped out for a correct pump and all was well from that point onwards.
Moral of this story - verify all parts are working in harmony together and also, double check everything ya’ get from the parts houses because there is a bunch of re-boxing going on on by folks who know nothing about parts knowledge. And finally the failure rate of brand named new parts is very high nowadays - new does not automatically equal good!
Yep. I had bought an overpriced "BeCool" radiator, even though I had seen many of the '67-'72 trucks use a standard copper/brass 4 row with few problems. That radiator started leaking at the header panel after 13 months. They told to get it repaired with epoxy.
I ditched it 6 months later for a Northern brand which fit slightly better and was a third of the price.
I ditched it 6 months later for a Northern brand which fit slightly better and was a third of the price.
