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14 bolt rebuild question (Check my pattern)

85 Jimmy

Sheepdog
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Putting new bears and bearings in my 14 bolt. Using one of those crusher sleeve eliminators with the spacer and shims. Made a set up bearing with the old bearing on the yoke side of the pinion. Right now I'm at 30 inch pounds on pinion preload WITHOUT the pinion seal. Should I roll with that or get it a little less to compensate for the seal?

According to the Billavista write up on pirate, with new bearings, pinion bearing preload should be between 25-35 inch pounds.

http://www.billavista.com/tech/Articles/14-Bolt_Gear_Setup/index.html
 
Your set up bearing may be a little looser than a new bearing. So that 30 in pd might be tighter
 
So, try to get the shim pack a little thinner for closer to 20ish inch pounds?

Do I need to account for the seal? Or set preload for without the seal, and then whatever the seal adds doesn't matter?
 
Yes I would try a little thinner. Bearing tightness is what you are concerned with, to tight and bearing over heat to loose and the chatter.
So what ever the seal does after you set preload isn't a problem.
 
I've got it at about 22 inch pounds with the set up bearing and no seal. Not sure I'll be able to get anything between that and 30.
 
try your new bearings, it's not bad to take apart and readjust with new bearing. Just a little rap with a dead blow. But I think you will @ 25 in pd
 
This is .008 backlash and no shims in the pinion. I increased backlash to .012 and it looks exactly the same. Run it or adjust?

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if in a blazer and never run a full mech locker before watch your self . . . they can get squirly under power and unlocking around corners .

and its made worse by stick shift . guy i built a blazer for had me swap its 1tons in to the blazer and i told him its going to be a all new rig with the shorter wheel base . he said ahh it cant be that bad . . . he told me a few days later WOW you were right thats way different than the k30 truck the axles come from .
 
We’ve got lockers and a stick on the 77 bronco and when it’s dry it’s no issue but when wet you better watch out.
 
if in a blazer and never run a full mech locker before watch your self . . . they can get squirly under power and unlocking around corners .

and its made worse by stick shift . guy i built a blazer for had me swap its 1tons in to the blazer and i told him its going to be a all new rig with the shorter wheel base . he said ahh it cant be that bad . . . he told me a few days later WOW you were right thats way different than the k30 truck the axles come from .

Ive had this same setup for probably 8 years. Just needed new gears and bearings. In south mississippi we never get any ice, it's just rain. I'm used to it.
 
Street Driving
Drive normally on streets for approximately 15-20 minutes, stop, and then let the rearend cool down for 30-minutes. The process should be repeated 2-to-3 times. The oil should be changed at 500 miles, don't be alarmed if this first oil change comes out much darker than when it went in as the black phosphate coating is wearing off the gears, along with a minimal amount of steel from the bearings, gears, and differential wearing-in.

Towing Vehicles
Drive at low-loads for a total of approximately 300 to 500 miles of mixed street driving (see above) and highway driving before towing any load.
 
Definitely won't be towing anything.. I drove a few miles down the road to the parts store and back. About 90-95% of the coasting noise I had is gone. The noise that is there sounds like it's coming form the t-case and I think I can feel it in the shifters also.. I'll order up a diy4x diff cover to replace the stock one with the next oil change.
 
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