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14 Bolt Spindle Nut Torque

pparker

pparker

1/2 ton status
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I used billvista 14 bolt bible torque of 50ft lbs on my spindle nut. It feels pretty tight, takes a little bit of force to turn the 38’s by hand and i cant turn the axle at all by the pinion by hand.

not sure if this is normal and will wear itself loose, or if this is a torq like other axles where you torq to this, and then back it back out to hand tight and call it good.

Im running a 14 bolt out of a 2004 2500, not sure if this makes a difference aswell. I completely rebuilt the axle, new bearings, seals, locker, crush sleeve eliminator, new HD pinion yoke,
 
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I wouldn't leave it that tight. I know that some do.
I would back it off, but still maintain some preload. Measuring the end play with a dial indicator is good if you can. 1 to 1.5 thousands is what we do on semi trucks. Quite often the hand adjustment is pretty close if you have a good feel for it. Pull in and out on the hub to verify if there is any end play.
Do you have the disc brakes assembled? Remember that they will add a little drag.
 
"Torque the nut to 50 ft/lbs while rotating the hub then back it off and then torque it again to 35 ft/lbs and then install the key and retaining clip. If the slot in the nut doesn't line up with the keyway in the spindle I always tighten the nut to line them up." Copied from a post on here by @4X4HIGH
 
6872xtc said:
I would back it off, but still maintain some preload. Measuring the end play with a dial indicator is good if you can. 1 to 1.5 thousands is what we do on semi trucks.
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I guess your talking about pulling tire in and out that much. Ill look end play up more to confirm. But i think i know what your talkin about.

6872xtc said:
Do you have the disc brakes assembled? Remember that they will add a little drag.
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I do have the disk brakes assembled and i tightened ebrake aswell to where it would barely slide on and off by hand.

If i loosen it to hand tight i can easily turn to wheel. Tried 25ftlbs and it feels similar to 50,
 
what does the end play feel like at hand tight ? If you can't "feel" any end play at hand tight and the drum/rotor spins freely, esp if is has the tire and wheel on. I say your safe.

That 50 ftpd is there to make sure the bearings are seated, always need to back it off.
 
Wes Harden said:
what does the end play feel like at hand tight ? If you can't "feel" any end play at hand tight and the drum/rotor spins freely, esp if is has the tire and wheel on. I say your safe.

That 50 ftpd is there to make sure the bearings are seated, always need to back it off.
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I will check when i get home on Thursday, i work at the FD so im at work for two days, i dont remember there being much or any play in it.
 
When you replaced the bearings, did you push (hammer/punch) the inner race back against the lock ring?
 
if you get it to tight ask my buddy how that goes . . 1 tech in his shop did that and fried a hub and bearings and almost the spindle . .

i go 50ft on them to set the race if the hub is serviced and then back off . then snug only back up and if you have to line up the key way notch newer style always back off . never make a bearing tighter to line up i was told .
 
kennyw said:
Here are the factory service instructions
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Thank you, this is awesome. Where did you find this?

I bet this will work perfect, because between hand tight, to 25ftlbs, isnt much, so a 1/4 turn below 35 is probably 10 or less. this should get me just right or much better than it is.
 
sweetk30 said:
if you get it to tight ask my buddy how that goes . . 1 tech in his shop did that and fried a hub and bearings and almost the spindle . .

i go 50ft on them to set the race if the hub is serviced and then back off . then snug only back up and if you have to line up the key way notch newer style always back off . never make a bearing tighter to line up i was told .
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well I'm glad i didnt run it that way and checked, i just knew in my gut it was too tight.

I am worried about one of my inner seals, the previous owner had replaced the entire hub, and the seal i got, i was able to just push on by hand! so I lightly siliconed it and then put it in. I probably shouldv'e let that cure before I put it on and rotated the wheel as i torq'd spindle. not sure where i can find the right seal for it, kind of a beveled seat never seen one like it had same gm numbers as the factory hub, but could have been made on a monday?

When i take it off ill try to post pics on here when i Re silicon, and ill let it sit a day or two before putting on incase someone knows what correct inner seal it may be.
 
cheavyk10 said:
Here's the one you want.
www.offroaddesign.com

14 bolt hub seal, improved design

14 bolt hub seal, improved design
www.offroaddesign.com www.offroaddesign.com
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thats the ones i put on, my spindle is fine. but my hub is, ide say, loose where it first goes in, but then gets tight the last 1/16' inch. its kind of beveled, but apears to have been made that way. I popped it in by hand. just takes slight pop of screwdriver to remove.

Yea i just looked at invoice i bought 2 wheel bearing kits both with upgraded hub seals.
 
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sweetk30 said:
Just get a seal for like mid 2000 3/4 ton hd truck gas engine .
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Right but the two hubs were different, one was nice and square was original equip and the other was a replacement nice shiny but stamped same gm number but had bevel there and it also had shorter studs which i had to change.
 
If you remove that hub again, use a pointed punch and put a couple of dozen dimples around the surface the seal sits against. The dimples will help to make the surface "grip" the seal, people do the same with bearing races that no longer have a perfect press fit. Also, put Loctite on the seal instead of RTV.
:thumb:
 
pparker said:
Right but the two hubs were different, one was nice and square was original equip and the other was a replacement nice shiny but stamped same gm number but had bevel there and it also had shorter studs which i had to change.
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i ment the seal to use for the newer tighter fit and better design .
 
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