1410 Rear Driveshaft

[DirtRidinz71]

I am running a stock K5 rear driveshaft in my 92 GMC (around 8" of lift) with a GM 3R/S44 u joint up front and a 3R to a Ford 1330 BC (Big cups) conversion u joint at the rear diff (sterling 10.25). The problem is I have to special order the u-joints, around a 2 month wait, they are pricey and with the angle don't have a long life.
I am running at near max angle for the 1330 u joint and had to grind the front slip yoke and drive shaft to clear without binding at full drop.
A super short SYE would be the best option but out of the budget so my next best idea would be to upgrade to a 1410 slip yoke, drivershaft and rear pinion yoke. The 1410 claims to allow for more angle and is much beefier then the 3R or 1330.
Has anyone done this with a stock driveline on a lifted K5? Even though the u-joint will run at the angle, did the yokes/ears need to be grinded down to clear without binding?

 

[K85 Octane]

Run a regular slip yoke at the case but with a CV. Then rotate your pinion up to point at the case. Only correct way of doing it with that much lift. You don't need an SYE. Get a 1350 or 1410 yoke for the sterling and be done with conversion joints.

 

[63chevyll]

Yeah i agree with the conversion joints.

Im running 1410s at every spot on my Burb. I feel safer with the angle.

Rear in only 5.5 inch of lift

 

[DirtRidinz71]

Run a regular slip yoke at the case but with a CV. Then rotate your pinion up to point at the case. Only correct way of doing it with that much lift. You don't need an SYE. Get a 1350 or 1410 yoke for the sterling and be done with conversion joints.

Thanks. It doesn't seem the local driveshaft shop can find me a slip yoke for a double cardan joint and I couldn't locate any spicer or neapco part numbers for one. I'll have to call a couple high angle places this week but with the crappy Canadian dollar Im sure they will be out of the budget too.

Its the combination 1330 to 3R u joint that is the big problem here, easiest solution would be to just swap to a 1350 yoke and have a much more common u joint and cheaper. The 1330 held up to the abuse, but after a year (2000 miles) it is showing some play. I was just thinking that since I am needing a change the 1410 single cardan driveshaft would be even better, being stronger and handle more angle then the 1350 u joint.

For the little amount of road driving I do I can live with the slight vibration on decal that it has as long as I can easily source a u joint on the shelf to change out whenever needed.