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14B FF Disc Conversion: New twist to help 10/30/06

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MuddinManny

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Hey Y'all,

I'm starting to tear apart my 14 Bolt to do a disc brake conversion. I have already purchased JKW Offroad's Disc Brake Conversion Kit. I am going down to Advance Auto Parts to order up the Caddy Eldorado Calipers and Brake Rotors, new wheel studs. I'm assuming that the bearings, seals are to remain as is. Am I correct? Will the stock formed hard brake line match up to the calipers with a little persuasion or is there a new line I have to get? Where do I get the e-brake cables from? What year/model for the swap. I have been unable to find any info on the web forums.

Lastly, does anyone have any tips to avoid any headaches or is this swap just that easy?

Thanks,

Manny
 
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MattK said:
search search search
Click to expand...

Yeah, you're right. Search. Problem is, that there is very little specifics. One thing I found out was that 50% of the swaps don't like the Caddy Calipers saying they suck, or don't hold on the e-brake. Other say they used D44 calipers but don't say whether they are front or rears. I'm new to Chevy's do I don't even know if a D44 had a rear let alone rear calipers. Search is great, but doesn't always give what you need.

Thanks!

Manny
 
d44 is a front chevy.. no older chevy's came with disc in the rear.. basically take the same front caliper you have on your truck now as long as it is not a 1ton and bolt it on to the rear adaptor plate for the 14bolt.. all u need to do is yes punch out the old studs.. put new rotor on old 14bolt hub.. push new studs back in.. and then put it all back onto the axle.. with the brake braket on first of course. bolt up caliper, run soft line, to hard line like the front is and ur done.
 
Get yourself some chevette brake hoses, they seem to be a good length for this. The one thing to have on hand is some extra tubing to make spacers from, the last set of JKW's we put on came with the wrong spacers. I cant remember the correct length they should be, maybe 11/16'ths? You will know if your caliper dont center with the pads in it. I wouldnt waste the money on the caddy calipers, just get them for the 75 3/4 ton fronts.
 
You may not be able to find the caddy calipers anyway. I think they have been used up. I have tried several stores and no one can get them anymore around here.
 
Leper said:
You may not be able to find the caddy calipers anyway. I think they have been used up. I have tried several stores and no one can get them anymore around here.
Click to expand...

We sell NEW not remanufactured caddy calipers w/ the arms, springs, and pads. They aren't cheap, but the cost is only a few bucks more than paying for a core charge.

In order to keep them working well, you have set them up properly from the start, and you HAVE to use the e-brake EVERY time you park. They rely on that to keep them adjusted properly. We have had no complaints from anyone we have set them up for.
 
IME with them what Shane says is spot-on, but you will also want to be doing yearly flushes of the brake system (should be doing that anyway & No I don't do it either :rolleyes: ) or the adjusting mechanism can get corroded from the moisture in the fluid. Then they have to come apart if they are going to work again.
 
Okay,

Here's the twist:

1. Advance Adapters NP205 Adapter: $155
2. NP205 Transfer Case ( I have access to one )
3. High Angle Drive Lines' E-brake T-case option: $378.00
4. Blackwidow Performance Brake Kit #2 395.00

Total: $928.00

or

1. Black Widow Performance Brake Kit #3 595.00

Now, that is a difference of $333.00. Grant it, that's a lot of dough, and I may need a few more parts with the 2nd option. Given that, my question is:

Is the performance of option 1 (upgraded T-case) T-case e-brake better than the performance of the caddy calipers? Can I honestly expect the caddies e-brake feature to hold under simple state (TX) inspection power test? I ask because there seems to be a lot of dissatisfied folks with the caddy caliper's. They report they don't hold and recommend D44's. I don't mind bleeding the brake system every year, performing maintenance. It should be done. With the proper tools, it's not difficult. Am I holding a good argument or am I reading too much into it?

Please understand I believe in doing a job right, spending money wisely; not being cheap and just getting by. I won't cheat on brake systems. I also am dealing with a lack of knowledge of how Chevy's and Dana's operate/handling characteristics. Your help is appreciated.

Thanks,

Manny

*No there is nothing wrong with the NP208 I have.
 
3. High Angle Drive Lines' E-brake T-case option: $378.00
4. Blackwidow Performance Brake Kit #2 395.00
Click to expand...

Why do you list both of these? Dont they do the same thing? Also why are you replacing the wheel studs are yours damaged? Just questions.

Ira
 
sandawgk5 said:
Why do you list both of these? Dont they do the same thing? Also why are you replacing the wheel studs are yours damaged? Just questions.

Ira
Click to expand...

Never mind. I see you still need rear brakes:doah: but why a performance kit. If you are going with a driveline brake just use $15 Dana 44 or 10 bolt calipers and the brackets and rotors you have.

Ira
 
Dont forget the cost of a new driveshaft if you change Tcases and add the driveline brake. You have to use the HAD Patented flange for that brake system.

Ira
 
sandawgk5 said:
Why do you list both of these? Dont they do the same thing? Also why are you replacing the wheel studs are yours damaged? Just questions.

Ira
Click to expand...
Hey Ira,

Blackwidow kit #2 doesn't offer e-brake calipers. They are straight up calipers, so that kit needs to be used. Kit #3 includes the e-brake calipers.

I'm gonna replace the wheel studs as a precautionary measure. I got the axle from a friend who told me he just put in new bearings and seals for the drum hub, but the wheel studs are the original. Good time as any to get new ones. Safe and secure.

HighAngle will be making up the front and rear shafts for me once I get the Superlift 10" Springs in.

Thanks,

Manny
 
Does the Black Widow #3 kit use Eldo calipers of something different? If it uses Eldo calipers, then you may have the same complaints as before.
 
goldwing2000 said:
Does the Black Widow #3 kit use Eldo calipers of something different? If it uses Eldo calipers, then you may have the same complaints as before.
Click to expand...
Well,

No I don't necessarily agree. The jury is still out. Lemme tell you why.

I have researched pavementsucks.com, pirate4x4.com and CK5.com for every possible approach to this issue. Many bitch about the Caddy calipers inability to stop their rigs, or an ineffective e-brake. However, NO ONE explains in detail what they did after initial installation. I found that brake bleeding is incomplete. No one also seems to know how to properly adjust the e-brake, or they do it errantly after bleeding, not before! The need for custom e-brake cables due to larger lifts aren't even mentioned, but could be needed. I have realized that no kit, in my humble opinion, can be all exclusive. Each rig is designed differently with common parts.

Today, I had a great conversation with Shane at BlackWidowPerformance Products. We specifically discussed Kit#3/w e-brake. His kit comes with e-brake GM calipers that fit multiple GM vehicles. Shane answered my questions concerning the apparent lack of Eldorado Caddy calipers from holding the e-brake by going step by step over the proper adjustment and bleeding process. Understanding the need to follow this pattern exactly, due to the mix of hydraulic and mechanical breaking, is essential. Correctly adjusting the brake and bleeding should help stop/hold your tires exactly as designed. I mentioned that I have 39.5 Super Swamper TSL's and my concern about oversized tires. Shane said there should be no problem holding. He has had a very good success, very low return rate.

The key I have found is asking questions. Searching forums, asking manufacturers' questions about their products and end user's experience. I will be ordering the kit through Shane and will report back on the expected success of this swap. I believe that following the steps Shane gave me will bring success and a safer stopping rig! :D

Thanks!

Manny
 
Like I said... you may have the same complaints.

Looks like you may be smarter than the average bear, so you might get it to work for you just fine! ;)
 
Wouldn't complaining about the caddy brakes not stopping the rig kinda be insignifacant? If you stop with 60% front brakes then i would figure they have other brake problems.
I am just starting the conversion on my rig and i have picked up a set from the wrecking yard. I have also heard many peeps say the caddy brakes suck, but i'm gonna give it a try since i already found a set.

Actually i found 2 sets but the other set i found was from a 81 seville and there are only 1" wide so i cant get the big rotors in them.
 
My rear caddy calipers hold fine (they are actually TSMs "large GM" calipers). When I ripped a front brake line off, and had no hydraulic brakes, the mechanical e-brake was enough to drive 40 miles home - slowly and carefully in the back country.

I do, however, have a small fluid leak at one caliper where the e-brake arm enters the caliper. It drips once in a while when the e-brake is on.
 
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