CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

14bff crush sleeves -- where to get?

dremu

Officious Thread Derailer
GMOTM Winner
Joined
Feb 27, 2000
Posts
16,370
Reaction score
1,128
Location
East of San Francisco
I'll call my local good place in the morning, but I see neither PartsAmerica nor Napa list them as an off-the-shelf part.

Is this a GM dealer item, or where does one get one (or yes, Scott, two :) ) ?


-- A
 
dremu said:
I'll call my local good place in the morning, but I see neither PartsAmerica nor Napa list them as an off-the-shelf part.

Is this a GM dealer item, or where does one get one (or yes, Scott, two :) ) ?


-- A

The easiest place to source one would be the dealer (I get all of mine there), but a good differential shop should have them as well. I wouldn't waste too much time trying to find one at a parts house as I have never seen anything other than a 10 bolt crush sleeve in a store.
 
I think I have a new one kicking around my garage. I couldnt get it to crush when I did new bearings in my 14bff so I used the old one. Let me know if ya want it.
 
I just re-used the old one because new ones are soooo hard to crush. Its been in there for 3 or 4 years now and I have had no problems.
-Harrison
 
[hijack] Does anyone make a solid spacer instead of using a crush sleave?
I've not had long lasting good results with crush sleaves.[/hijack]
 
goldwing2000 said:
You can't set bearing preload with a solid spacer.
Hum, works in Ford 9"'s, works in Toyota 8"'s, works in Fiat 8V diffs. What's different about the 14bff?
 
dremu said:
I'll call my local good place in the morning, but I see neither PartsAmerica nor Napa list them as an off-the-shelf part.

Is this a GM dealer item, or where does one get one (or yes, Scott, two :) ) ?


-- A

PM me if you want one. Im in Hayward. I could order one monday and have it tuesday.
 
As an aside, my closest GM dealer had them, two, in fact, actually in stock.

One is now neatly in place with a new seal -- the old crumbled when we pulled the pinion, no wonder it leaked! -- and the other was part of the labor fee for the machine shop... thanks Scott! =))

-- A
 
ntsqd said:
Hum, works in Ford 9"'s, works in Toyota 8"'s, works in Fiat 8V diffs. What's different about the 14bff?

I would assume it has something to with the way it's designed.
 
You can use a spacer to set the preload on a 14FF. If there is no spacer then the bearings are too tight if you have a spacer that is too large then the bearings are too loose. You can make a spacer by taking the old crushsleeve and cutting a piece of DOM tubing the same length put it in place of the crush sleeve and torque the yoke on. Check your preload. You can shim if the preload is too tight or grind some off if it is not tight enough. I can be done and has been done by people on here.

Ira
 
ntsqd said:
Hum, works in Ford 9"'s, works in Toyota 8"'s, works in Fiat 8V diffs. What's different about the 14bff?

Danas are essentially the same also, just the "spacer" is part of the pinion, Might as well add them.

You are correct you could use one on a 14bff, just add or subtract shims to get the correct preload.

Why have you not had long lasting results with crush sleeves? Do you beat the pinion back and forth to seat the bearings then re check it? If you dont then the preload will not be correct because it will loosen up.
 
First one to fail was in an 8" Ford (Same exact part as used in the 9" Ford). It simply continued to crush in use. Some of that use was flat towing my 2k lbs 'glass dune buggy. Had the new gears re-set with a solid spacer.
Second one to fail was a yota 8" Same general deal, just continued to crush. Note that both failures took time, like a couple years. Wasn't overnight. No, I didn't beat on anything, simply tightened them by hand until I got the pre-load in spec.
The 8" in my turbo yota DD got set up with a spacer that I made from a piece of heavy walled DOM as sandawgk5 noted. Cut it long, trued it on the lathe, & then used the surface grinder to get the ends truly parallel. It's time consuming to set the pre-load this way. Grind a little & check it. Grind a little more & check it. Could go with shims, but I didn't have any the right size for that diff. Once it's right I'm confident that it won't continue to crush.
 
Top Bottom