Just spotted this. What's my most likely culprit?
CK5
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14BFF oil leak
- Thread starter Mastiff
- Start date
It's oil for sure, just wondering what I'm going to be replacing. I haven't been in there in years. Maybe there's just one seal?
I bought one of these ten years ago: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KS8LJI
I bought one of these ten years ago: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KS8LJI
rampage
3/4 ton status
For the same price you can get the improved design.
https://www.offroaddesign.com/14-bolt-hub-seal-improved-design.html
https://www.offroaddesign.com/14-bolt-hub-seal-improved-design.html
make sure your diff vent is clear. could be heat pressure forcing oil past the seal
What's the actual manufacturer/part on that? I'll probably still get it from ORD, but it's not like they make it.
I'm having total deja vu. I think I had this issue more recently than 10 years ago and you gave me this same advice. Can't for the life of me remember how I resolved it.
It’s made by several manufacturers, but mid 2000s 14 bolt for application search.
Here's my "old" thread. Not even very old. Shows that I'm the one getting old. 
ck5.com
I saw reference to SKF 28554 and the above thread points to this: https://www.amazon.com/National-710568-Oil-Seal/dp/B0CCYJ93PH?th=1
Something leaking onto drum?
I'm going to dig in a bit, but what do you suppose is the culprit here? Brakes, seepy oil seal? It's a 14bff. Was checking it over before a short trail ride later.
ck5.com
I saw reference to SKF 28554 and the above thread points to this: https://www.amazon.com/National-710568-Oil-Seal/dp/B0CCYJ93PH?th=1
Is the 1st thing I say to anyone with a seal leak
Hey guys. Finally digging into my leaky hub seal. I have a new seal from ORD. Thing is, I got in there and the seal I have appears to be of the same type. Could be worn out I suppose, but it looks sort of fresh and I seldom drive (though maybe that's bad). The axle itself looks okay to my eye. Are there any gotchas with this I should be thinking about? The current seal lip is not flush to the hub, should it be? Also, any need for RTV or anything to ensure a good seal metal to metal, or do I just rely on the seal deforming?
no rtv on flange gasket.
Well, the old seal was pretty loose, like not hammered in flush or even close. Came out really easily. I wonder if the leak was from the metal/metal where the seal is supposed to seat. I used a seal seating tool and hammered the new one in flush. I find myself skeptical of these two part seals though. Once installed, the inner part is kind of hard to turn. Will that really be the thing turning instead of the rubber just rotating around the spindle?
Assuming that the seal was not distorted during installation the resistance you’re feeling would be common to what you would feel if you put a regular seal and placed it on the spindle and rotated it by hand - gonna have resistance in either case.
The newer seal is far better and has been out long enough to be proven superior to the old style.
