CK5
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1945 Willys MB. Part 5, Actually doing things
- Thread starter TreeFarm
- Start date
Low slung big tired Willys Mb
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
some before and after contrast 
Since I have the fuel injection now I don’t need the tach or afr gauge. Replaced it with a speed but gps speedometer and mounted the fitech screen by the rear view mirror.
Since I have the fuel injection now I don’t need the tach or afr gauge. Replaced it with a speed but gps speedometer and mounted the fitech screen by the rear view mirror.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Got my intercom system installed today. Havent bought a bluetooth module or the radio plug to wire in my VHF to it yet. But I can have a conversation with the passenger while going down the highway. 
On top of that I have started a science experiment with my Fitech. I have modified a small cap TBI distributor to plug into the Fitech. Should allow me to use the timing control on the cheap.
On top of that I have started a science experiment with my Fitech. I have modified a small cap TBI distributor to plug into the Fitech. Should allow me to use the timing control on the cheap.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
The distributor is a success. Full timing control for only $60. The only problem was that I hooked the pickup up backwards initially. 50/50 shot, odds are you will get it wrong the first time. Small cap is nice for packaging but now I have to deal with an external coil.
What did you have to do to the distributor?
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
If you use a TBI distributor you just have to remove the ignition module and wire the Fitech/holley or whatever to the magnetic pickup in the distributor. If you use a normal large cap HEI you will need to lock it out and phase the rotor. TBI motors already have the rotors phased properly and are locked out for fuel injection from the factory.
You can hook up the magnetic pickup backwards. If this happens you will be able to set the base timing but when you rev the engine the timing will get messed up and it wont run right. Just reverse the wires if this happens.
MSD PN 8861 is the cable you need to wire to the magnetic pick up so it plugs into the ECU
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Was that a clip from The Fast and the Furious?
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Nah. I only have a 4 speed. I think you need at least 12 gears to be in one of those movies.Was that a clip from The Fast and the Furious?
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
View attachment IMG_1624.mp4
So I blew up the transfer case today. Wish I could say I was doing something cool but no. I was leaving a red light with some pep and it went pop. When I built this case my input gear had a chip on one tooth. this gear set was supposed to be temporary and be replaced with an aftermarket 3.15:1 low range set.
Unfortunately when I was ready to purchase that set the company stopped making them. Sold all of their remaining stock and plans to a well known case builder. He refused to sell the gears on their own, only letting them go as a complete case until his new gears came in from the manufacture which should be any day now. Well looks like I can get a set now since the case is cracked.
There is the crack pictured below which was a result of flat towing it home. There is also a crack below the pto cover which doesnt make sense. I dont see how loose teeth in the case could have cracked it there. I think it was cracked from before. The actual case I used to build was an unknown origin empty case from the 60s that I picked up on craigslist. maybe it was already cracked.
So I blew up the transfer case today. Wish I could say I was doing something cool but no. I was leaving a red light with some pep and it went pop. When I built this case my input gear had a chip on one tooth. this gear set was supposed to be temporary and be replaced with an aftermarket 3.15:1 low range set.
Unfortunately when I was ready to purchase that set the company stopped making them. Sold all of their remaining stock and plans to a well known case builder. He refused to sell the gears on their own, only letting them go as a complete case until his new gears came in from the manufacture which should be any day now. Well looks like I can get a set now since the case is cracked.
There is the crack pictured below which was a result of flat towing it home. There is also a crack below the pto cover which doesnt make sense. I dont see how loose teeth in the case could have cracked it there. I think it was cracked from before. The actual case I used to build was an unknown origin empty case from the 60s that I picked up on craigslist. maybe it was already cracked.
Last edited:
Perky V6.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
They really are. Not HP wise but they make a boat load of torque. Easy to find dyno numbers in the 280-290 ftlb range at 2500 rpm.
Ouch!
Especially in such a light unit.
I have not read the whole thread, just found it. Plus this info may be useless now that you broke the transfer case.
But, if you are going back with the same model case, and have not already done this, I cannot recommend the tapered roller bearing idler gear conversion enough.
My first vehicle was a '60 model CJ5 that I drove as a DD for 8 years, and then a backup/hunting vehicle for another 4 or so. In that time, I replaced the needle bearings and idler gear I think about 3 times.
Lots of highway miles.
The bearings never actually wore out to the point that they caused operating problems. When the radio volume knob maxed out, it was time for a new idler gear set.
Then I found a kit that replaced the needle bearings with tapered roller bearings like axle bearings. And was adjustable.
The transfer case never made a sound after that. It seemed to run cooler too. I put many thousands of miles on that gear set with no noise at all.
Well worth the money.
But, if you are going back with the same model case, and have not already done this, I cannot recommend the tapered roller bearing idler gear conversion enough.
My first vehicle was a '60 model CJ5 that I drove as a DD for 8 years, and then a backup/hunting vehicle for another 4 or so. In that time, I replaced the needle bearings and idler gear I think about 3 times.
Lots of highway miles.
The bearings never actually wore out to the point that they caused operating problems. When the radio volume knob maxed out, it was time for a new idler gear set.
Then I found a kit that replaced the needle bearings with tapered roller bearings like axle bearings. And was adjustable.
The transfer case never made a sound after that. It seemed to run cooler too. I put many thousands of miles on that gear set with no noise at all.
Well worth the money.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Yeah I will be putting another 18/20 hybrid in. Tapered bearings were the plan all along. Buy a Tera low gear set and have it machined for tapered bearings. Unfortunately I put it off too long and teraflex stopped producing those gears. There is another source for them but they haven't made it onto the streets yet.
I think I will just have Herm the overdrive guy put me togther a case with 3.15 gears, tapered bearings, and a 25% overdrive. A lot easer and probably cheaper than trying to source parts and have them all shipped to alaska. Prices up here are stupid.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
So the update on this. I am in line to have a transfer case built. This time with 3.15 low range and the gears machined for tapered roller bearings. Unfortunately they don't have any Overdrives for that gear ratio right now so that will have to come at a later date. I sold my C20 to cover the final push on this thing. The transfer case and axle gears. I found some Yukon JK d44 5.38 gears on amazon for $190 rather than the regular $350. I ordered two sets, hopefully the correct part shows up.
My best guess is that this crack is what caused the failure. It runs from the PTO port to the bottom cover. With the offset rear output even in 2wd the case wants to rotate under load. That crack would have killed most of the structural rigidity of the case allowing the input and intermediate gear to spread apart. This is also why I like painting gear boxes a light color. I probably would have missed that crack if it was black.
My best guess is that this crack is what caused the failure. It runs from the PTO port to the bottom cover. With the offset rear output even in 2wd the case wants to rotate under load. That crack would have killed most of the structural rigidity of the case allowing the input and intermediate gear to spread apart. This is also why I like painting gear boxes a light color. I probably would have missed that crack if it was black.
kind of the same reason I paint all my engines a light color (usually grey), helps you find the oil leaks better than black on black.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Exactly. Nice to see where its coming from.
Got my Yukon JK 5.38 ring and pinions. Interesting to see one black and one polished set. Still waiting for the Jantz conversion kit to come.
