Honestly, differences between the 64-66 are very marginal.
CK5
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1964 Chevy C20->K20 Build
- Thread starter kennyw
- Start date
Yeah my dad used to build them when I was a kid. 64/66 Was his favorite. Mine too! He built 5 of them.
He told me years ago that a suburban frame of that vintage had bolt on frame extensions and was the same frame as a short box truck had. Never seen it for myself?
So all these posts and no pictures?
I posted half a dozen pictures in the first post. I'll have more when I start pulling the 6 cylinder.So all these posts and no pictures?
This is what it looks like tonight.
Beautiful!!!
Apparently this engine is so unreliable that they needed work lights under the hood.
I've never heard any GM straight 6 called unreliable before...wow! 250 or 292?
It was parked for what the previous owner thought was a worn out timing chain. No idea on motor size but it is not a 292 because the mounts are even across from each other rather than staggered. I know there were similar looking but smaller displacement motors in cars and that is where this one came from. I would guess it is in the same family as the truck 250.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
230 or 250 based of fuel pump and engine mount location. I'm pretty sure the 250 wasnt out in 64 but I'm not 100%. So could be a 230
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That would have timing gears, not a chain...does it run?
I do not know and do not plan to put any time into it. My wife wants the 454 from the parts truck and I need to get that truck stripped and out of the way. The best place I have to store the 454 is in the 64.
This motor isn't original and came out of a car according to the PO. Could be anything and any year.
If anyone local wants the 6 cylinder, I'm going to give it away free.
I'm not local...Loco maybe ,--but its too far away..
Engine - Free
Shipping $400+ bucks..
Here's how to tell a 292 from a 250 or other cid straight six Chevy's..
How to tell a 292 from a 230/250
These engines usually had a fiber (Masonite) timing cam gear,that does strip their teeth at high mileage--I had one strip in my '56 pickup's 235,and the 250 in my '75 2WD Blazer...
Another thing they often do is have the distributor roll pin break,that lets the drive gear "skip" and make it appear it has jumped time..
I spent several weeks on a friends 250 six replacing one part after another,until nearly every part bolted to it was replaced--carb,fuel pump,complete tune up,etc--and it would still die on you without warning,then if you cranked it over long enough,the drive gear eventually lined back up ,and it would fire up and run great again..sometimes for days,other times not 5 minutes!..
It was an old mechanic about 80 years old,that told me to check the distributor gear pin..said he worked at a GM dealer and had seen it happen often,but it was a new one on me!..
The guy I bought a 307 from a few weeks has a 230 straight six in a sweet '65 Nova wagon,that has been rebuilt completely ,he's driven it 10,000 miles trouble free,but is planning an LS 6.0 swap in the near future--he said he'd give the engine to me if I wanted it--he has my phone #,but I don't know if that'll really happen..
If I do get it,pretty soon I can start an "Antique Chevy Engine" museum in my garage..
..maybe I'll buy a 2002 or older truck that no longer needs emission testing with a blown motor cheap,and put the 307 or straight six in,just to piss off all the LS lovers..
Engine - Free
Shipping $400+ bucks..
Here's how to tell a 292 from a 250 or other cid straight six Chevy's..
How to tell a 292 from a 230/250
These engines usually had a fiber (Masonite) timing cam gear,that does strip their teeth at high mileage--I had one strip in my '56 pickup's 235,and the 250 in my '75 2WD Blazer...
Another thing they often do is have the distributor roll pin break,that lets the drive gear "skip" and make it appear it has jumped time..
I spent several weeks on a friends 250 six replacing one part after another,until nearly every part bolted to it was replaced--carb,fuel pump,complete tune up,etc--and it would still die on you without warning,then if you cranked it over long enough,the drive gear eventually lined back up ,and it would fire up and run great again..sometimes for days,other times not 5 minutes!..
It was an old mechanic about 80 years old,that told me to check the distributor gear pin..said he worked at a GM dealer and had seen it happen often,but it was a new one on me!..
The guy I bought a 307 from a few weeks has a 230 straight six in a sweet '65 Nova wagon,that has been rebuilt completely ,he's driven it 10,000 miles trouble free,but is planning an LS 6.0 swap in the near future--he said he'd give the engine to me if I wanted it--he has my phone #,but I don't know if that'll really happen..
If I do get it,pretty soon I can start an "Antique Chevy Engine" museum in my garage..
..maybe I'll buy a 2002 or older truck that no longer needs emission testing with a blown motor cheap,and put the 307 or straight six in,just to piss off all the LS lovers..
Radiator is out and I have a lot disconnected. I even pressure washed most the truck.
Thinking about selling or trading this gem for a K5 Blazer. I would consider a 1973-91 K5 with no rust and missing/dead motor/transmission as a straight across trade. But if nothing comes along, I will keep tinkering.
I ended up selling this one to the guy that did the rocker rust repair on the 77 short bed.
He dropped in a healthy motor and had it built but I lost track of him some time back and didn't see the end results.
Problem areas for rust are in the rear corners of the hood, lower front fenders, floors, rockers, and rear fender wells.
He dropped in a healthy motor and had it built but I lost track of him some time back and didn't see the end results.
Problem areas for rust are in the rear corners of the hood, lower front fenders, floors, rockers, and rear fender wells.
