Had to change the angle on both sides. Added a bungholeEO for the O2.
CK5
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So question about hanger placement.
I don't have any flex joints in the system, haven't used any before when having a shop do it.
The wagon has a couple provisions for the driver side factory run, nothing more. I'm guessing, for the dual system, one hanger close to each exit and something holding the exit of the muffler? Any farther forward might not let the system "hang" and flex?
When I was welding, I put that bar between the mufflers so I could remove the whole thing and finish welding. If the bar clears the driveshaft, should I leave the mufflers tied together?
Thanks ya'll.
And I officially said "peace out" to SNS a couple months ago. Couldn't stand that forum. CK5 gets all my Nova content LOL and questions
I don't have any flex joints in the system, haven't used any before when having a shop do it.
The wagon has a couple provisions for the driver side factory run, nothing more. I'm guessing, for the dual system, one hanger close to each exit and something holding the exit of the muffler? Any farther forward might not let the system "hang" and flex?
When I was welding, I put that bar between the mufflers so I could remove the whole thing and finish welding. If the bar clears the driveshaft, should I leave the mufflers tied together?
Thanks ya'll.
And I officially said "peace out" to SNS a couple months ago. Couldn't stand that forum. CK5 gets all my Nova content LOL and questions
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I agree, hanger for the muffler and the tailpipe, all that's needed.
The rubber portion of the hanger will flex enough for the expansion, no flex joints should be necessary.
The rubber portion of the hanger will flex enough for the expansion, no flex joints should be necessary.
Wait, when did this get a V8??
Somehow I missed that critical update.
I wish it went in as easy as you think it did lol
Edit: wish it was done
Edit: wish it was done
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Exhaust hangers just after the mufflers and near the end of the tailpipes.
And I'm still unsure if I should keep a support between the mufflers. Feels like it helps support the crossover but maybe it's overkill.
And I'm still unsure if I should keep a support between the mufflers. Feels like it helps support the crossover but maybe it's overkill.
After some good cleaning of @Wes Harden 's old oil pan/pump/rod/pick up and it's ready for a new home. I also felt pretty proud of myself for going the extra mile couple feet and replaced the nylon sleeve with the steel sleeve from my old rod. Checked sleeve to bearing cap clearance and drilled the hole for the roll pin. Bam! Bobs your uncle.
So this setup is a drop in for the smaller v8s but not something with 400ci stroke. Didn't know, even the Nova guys failed to mention that. Glad WES was able to help me out with this combo, otherwise the following shenanigans and downright debauchery would have been on some fancy new combo. Not sure to be proud or hide in shame 
Counter weight misses by 1/8"
Rod stud/nut not as lucky
Might want to look away...
But it's in with a modified pick up tube mount, which also got close to the rod nuts, and tube is welded to the pump for extra safety.
Counter weight misses by 1/8"
Rod stud/nut not as lucky
Might want to look away...
But it's in with a modified pick up tube mount, which also got close to the rod nuts, and tube is welded to the pump for extra safety.
Last two questions for today.
I believe this is a Lokar speedometer cable. It's been many years. I think it was a cut to fit and I'm hoping to save money and shorten it. Anyone know if it's possible to reuse?
Also, looking through some of the wires going over to the starter area. I have this PPL and "white orange purple" wire. The multi color wire is actually just black with some kind of shielding sleeve around it. On the paper it says "resistance" and it's definitely different to cut. I'm wondering what either does. I need a coil wire and S wire. Not sure if the shielded wire is panel power? Dunno
Darn it, what's Zim's handle? I think some of the schematics are from him. @76zimmer !
I believe this is a Lokar speedometer cable. It's been many years. I think it was a cut to fit and I'm hoping to save money and shorten it. Anyone know if it's possible to reuse?
Also, looking through some of the wires going over to the starter area. I have this PPL and "white orange purple" wire. The multi color wire is actually just black with some kind of shielding sleeve around it. On the paper it says "resistance" and it's definitely different to cut. I'm wondering what either does. I need a coil wire and S wire. Not sure if the shielded wire is panel power? Dunno
Darn it, what's Zim's handle? I think some of the schematics are from him. @76zimmer !
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Solid purple should be the crank signal wire to S terminal.
Don't recall the colors of an ignition by pass wire. Not sure I ever saw a clean one
Don't recall the colors of an ignition by pass wire. Not sure I ever saw a clean one
So maybe the top small one? Should be S.
And B+ should go on the right side large lug?
And B+ should go on the right side large lug?
looks that way to me. Putting batt + on that right stud looks tricky. maybe move the starter motor bush + lead to right and battery cable on left. No ignition by pass terminal on that starter. Don't need if you are going with HEI
So I thought I updated this with what I found out. Maybe I updated the stand alone thread.
This is how I'm using the terminals.
Ppl is cranking only. I depinned and added new wire.
The goody sleeved wire is key ON, meaning it carries power. I depinned it as well and will use it to trigger coil/EFI system.
This is how I'm using the terminals.
Ppl is cranking only. I depinned and added new wire.
The goody sleeved wire is key ON, meaning it carries power. I depinned it as well and will use it to trigger coil/EFI system.
Cut the pan side of the dipstick tube, maybe 1/4". This put the flare right at the opening of the hole. After arguing with myself over a couple ideas, JB Weld ended up winning out. I also cut the stick and got it dialed.
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Did just that with a large cable off the battery.
The TV cable I got from BTO ended up different than what I had. So I'll need to call them Tuesday.
Since starting the engine was out until TV cable/fluid/JB Weld drying was done...I turned my attention to the thing I was leaving for last.
U-bolt conversion and shims
Wasn't as bad as I thought but I will need to keep a close eye on this. There is no centering pin or other detent to hold the shim. I'm hoping the rubber isolators will do that.
4* up because transmission was 5* down. (I think)
Upgraded to 1/2" U-bolts from the 7/16" bolts.
Needed to shave off the edges to fit the shims.
Done
The TV cable I got from BTO ended up different than what I had. So I'll need to call them Tuesday.
Since starting the engine was out until TV cable/fluid/JB Weld drying was done...I turned my attention to the thing I was leaving for last.
U-bolt conversion and shims
Wasn't as bad as I thought but I will need to keep a close eye on this. There is no centering pin or other detent to hold the shim. I'm hoping the rubber isolators will do that.
4* up because transmission was 5* down. (I think)
Upgraded to 1/2" U-bolts from the 7/16" bolts.
Needed to shave off the edges to fit the shims.
Done
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what Plank could be
Tried to buy a restored car that looked similar in Illinois.
$19,000 IIRC
Told the guy I would probably be driving it home.
Guy told me he would never drive an old car on the highway, let alone near 2,000 miles. Kinda told me the quality of the restoration.
Plank knocking on 6,000 miles
$19,000 IIRC
Told the guy I would probably be driving it home.
Guy told me he would never drive an old car on the highway, let alone near 2,000 miles. Kinda told me the quality of the restoration.
Plank knocking on 6,000 miles
Hard mount flex fan with Nova correct shroud works great. Ran 30min at 173*, which is below my 180 stat 
but it was cool out. Id like to put a clutch fan on later, just did this to get things going cheaper. Got more wire to run and clean up. However, if I mickey mouse a couple things and run only oil psi/ water temp monitoring... I can drive it around the street some soon
Yes, I actually had to cut a bolt head 1/4" shorter on the tensioner pulley to miss the fan
but it was cool out. Id like to put a clutch fan on later, just did this to get things going cheaper. Got more wire to run and clean up. However, if I mickey mouse a couple things and run only oil psi/ water temp monitoring... I can drive it around the street some soon Yes, I actually had to cut a bolt head 1/4" shorter on the tensioner pulley to miss the fan
