CK5
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1964 Nova Wagon “Plank”

Nova
Ahh yes, the mandatory throttle blip!
Sounds good!
 
I think youll be happy. Those 400’s were way better than a same year 350.
 
Been happy in the blazer since '12 :D
Can't wait to get this back on the street but holidays are coming and I'll be very busy hopefully catching up on bills.

Just changed the oil in my other car. Every time I touch that thing I'm reminded why the Germans can't win a war.
 
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Drove it a little, like maybe 5 miles around the house, on 2 separate days. The alignment was really bad and its got a bad dead spot off idle. (Thats for the dual plane/ single plane intake discussion) drove it down to an alignment shop after calling 3 of them.

Drove worse after. Actually, the front tires were hitting the fender fang while turning off the rack. Left it so they could fix. Came back and it looked better, tire wasn't hitting. Started my 2 mile drive home and it was terrible. Front tires were burning rubber over 25mph and darty. Fuk, all I wanted was to drive it some.

My blazer on 40s, using the length of a 4' level, will run 3/16-1/4" toe in @ the ends of the level.

Plank is currently 1 1/16" toe in. :eek::poop:

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Single plane Edelbrock to replace dual plane Pro Products. Going to use the spacer as @folkenheath suggested. Bender (the Blazer) ran the dual plane with spacer for years. Never knew it HAD TO have the spacer to run EFI. I can't wait to swap them. Used my slopped driveway and the rain to dump the coolant :D
 
That should work, with the single plane the spacer may help but its not as important as with the dual plane and EFI.
 
That should work, with the single plane the spacer may help but its not as important as with the dual plane and EFI.
If the spacer isn't a guaranteed bonus, I will run without. It needs longer studs I don't have and more gaskets. Did it before but that was on the dual plane.
 
The front isn't terrible but the rear water ports are pretty well eaten up. Gunna run some extra grey gasket stuff around the this area. Does it make sense to fill the area like drywall mud, let dry 100% before assembling?

:(

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Think about adding one of these zinc anodes in place of your radiator petcock to help prevent galvanic corrosion in the system. Thats what caused the aluminum to be eaten away on the intake, and will do the same to other aluminum parts as well. I’m sure you’ll know to use a good aluminum approved anti freeze/coolant as well.

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Tried to oval the holes and couldn't confidently do it. Had a local machinist do it. Also starting the soothing exfoliating skin care treatment of JB Weld. While the intake was at the spa, I got part of my 3 point mounting done on the passenger side (learn so the driver side is better) Still need lower mounts. I want to use the original holes in the floor, tie in the seat brackets and integrate the belt mounts.

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If one day this car gets professionally painted, I'll have this blended into the jam around it.
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Fat stover flanged nut welded to the back side. 3/16" plate welded to tinfoil :waytogo:
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Bummer man. If you drain it just enough someone might be able to put a big TIG tack weld over that. Make sure to let air escape or it will blow it back out when it gets warm during the weld.
 
I would try JB if I had no way to weld it. Probably drain it and heat the area with a propane torch to burn off any residual liquid and then smear it on real good into the texture of the surface.
 
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JB Weld is done
When I assembled the water neck, I quite literally breathed on the driver side bolt and could feel it :eek: loosen. Passenger side went in good. I had hoped the grey gasket maker on both surfaces and 1 tight bolt would have been ok. Nope, ****er is bleeding THROUGH the blue FelPro.

Also, I am not running a bypass. Is that bad? Thanks
 
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JB Weld is done
When I assembled the water neck, I quite literally breathed on the driver side bolt and could feel it :eek: loosen. Passenger side went in good. I had hoped the grey gasket maker on both surfaces and 1 tight bolt would have been ok. Nope, ****er is bleeding THROUGH the blue FelPro.

Also, I am not running a bypass. Is that bad? Thanks

Time for a heli-coil, or deeper threads if thats a possibility?
Old SBC’s have a bypass in the block, so as long as this lower hole is open, youre good.

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