Weird, when I clicked that link of their site it went 404 not found... oh well it works now.
CK5
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I think the smaller bore is due to the smaller booster.
I see now, one is a dual booster as opposed to a single.
I assume dual has better stopping abilities? Why is everything to over the top with options? Hahaha.
Since im not racing I guess single would suffice?
I assume dual has better stopping abilities? Why is everything to over the top with options? Hahaha.
Since im not racing I guess single would suffice?
An Explanation of Single and Dual Diaphragm Boosters
The details of single versus dual diaphragm power boosters: what they are, size and performance specs, what function they play, how they enhance your ride, and how to decide which you need for your vehicle and why.
techtalk.mpbrakes.com
It depends on the diameter of the diaphragm as to if you need single vs dual. But master cylinder bore vs the calipers and wheel cylinder pressure requirements comes into the formula as well.
This is what I have now. What would you guys buy to replace and or update/upgrade this set up?
This should be fine?
www.classicindustries.com
It stops fine and the pedal works and feels fine enough.
This should be fine?
PB1105 - 1967-72 GMC and Chevy C10 Trucks; 11
Upgrade or add power brakes to your 1967-72 GM 1/2 ton truck models with this power brake booster kit. Includes: Zinc coated power brake booster, firewall brackets, pedal rod, cast iron 1-1/8 master cylinder with bleeders, pre-bent lines, and disc/drum combination valve.
It stops fine and the pedal works and feels fine enough.
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stock replacement is what I recommend. You can doll it up before you install.
Does it stop? Leave it aloneThis is what I have now. What would you guys buy to replace and or update/upgrade this set up?
This should be fine?
PB1105 - 1967-72 GMC and Chevy C10 Trucks; 11
Upgrade or add power brakes to your 1967-72 GM 1/2 ton truck models with this power brake booster kit. Includes: Zinc coated power brake booster, firewall brackets, pedal rod, cast iron 1-1/8 master cylinder with bleeders, pre-bent lines, and disc/drum combination valve.
It stops fine and the pedal works and feels fine enough.
View attachment 408034
The artical you posted @ boosters dual vs single, is correct when dealing with same diameter boosters. Commonly you will see 12" single or 8" dual, some even 6" dual. I would not put a 12" dual in any street car, maybe Top kick size truck.
I have a fee of those style wrenches, and some twisty looking ones with blue tinting
It's fine... I'm looking for down the road. Plus it looks super flashy and shiny, the new one would.
Old one will too with a fresh coat of paint
The brakes on my moms 69 SS are as good as the ones on my 94 Z28. Not all that is new is better
But it's shiny.... I will tape and paint the booster, gold maybe.
It's ok to paint the fluid reservoir proportioning valve?
Yes. Pink
I'll do it... I will, I really will.
So I took the bent up original fender to a body shop to see about fixing it up. The guy said "you couldn't find a better one"
So,after talking to him. He said the bottom is kinked pretty bad, they could fix it but it would be $400-500.
He recommended that I just bring the truck in and they can do paint job that will mesh with the existing paint. Seeing that the fender on their now fits and has all the paint already removed. They could "match" the present fender to the truck for about $300-350 so I'm going to go that route.
So,after talking to him. He said the bottom is kinked pretty bad, they could fix it but it would be $400-500.
He recommended that I just bring the truck in and they can do paint job that will mesh with the existing paint. Seeing that the fender on their now fits and has all the paint already removed. They could "match" the present fender to the truck for about $300-350 so I'm going to go that route.
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