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1972 Buick Skylark

Wes Harden said:
for a non computer car in CO thats perfect
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Our 2008 company pickup has a 6.0L and it runs 210 and I'm always thinking "that's so hot!". But it's happy as a clam. Runs 210 if it's towing, AC running, and 100° out or even if is 0° out. Always amazes me how well dialed in they got the cooling system on that truck.
 
mrk5 said:
Our 2008 company pickup has a 6.0L and it runs 210 and I'm always thinking "that's so hot!". But it's happy as a clam. Runs 210 if it's towing, AC running, and 100° out or even if is 0° out. Always amazes me how well dialed in they got the cooling system on that truck.
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All newer computer controlled engines run at 210 and stay there.
It's the most efficient and clean burn temperature.
Like Mike said if it's not computer controlled you can lower the temperature to 180
 
It turns out his car was indeed low on coolant. We ended up adding over half a gallon which on that system is a lot of coolant. I think we needed less than 2 gallons when we replaced the radiator.

Then the question was, "where did all that coolant go?" It occurred to me after the radiator replacement and intake manifold swap, we replaced the heater control valve that had been stuck shut. I'm thinking the coolant we lost went into the heater core once flow was opened up into it.
 
tRustyK5 said:
That era had rear main seals that were basically rope. Once it begins to deteriorate it literally disappears completely and leaks so damn bad it's ridiculous. The newer style lipped seal is a much better replacement.
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@tRustyK5 was prophetic. The other day the kid met my wife at the doctor's office with his buick clacking away like a sewing machine. Nicole says, "dude you need oil!" They ended up adding nearly a gallon!

Keep in mind, we remind him constantly he needs to check the oil. Luckily he doesn't drive it much.

Had time to poke around yesterday and oil was dripping out the torque converter dust shield pretty significantly. Told him he was driving grandma's car until we get back from the Rubicon when we'll have time to change out the main seal.

Luckily the oil pressure is still holding good. Last time I lost a rear main it was because the main bearings were shot. I'm thinking this is exactly like @tRustyK5 described.

So we can replace the rope seal with a modern rubber type seal?
 
no put another rope seal in it, it will go along time. There may be an upgrade neoprene seal, I haven't checked. Buick used rope up until they quit making v8s. Even the corporate v8 engine had rope seal.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-27000-Sneaky-Pete-Tool/dp/B0002SRCJW you'll need this, and turn the crank while removing and replacing the upper half. Don't end on the seam, just a touch of rtv on the edge of main cap.

Hardest part will getting the pan off. easier on lift, on the ground I might pull the engine.
 
I used to have a Sneaky Pete tool from back when I had the 71 'cuda. That was the car that blew the seal out due to worn main bearing. Didn't find that out until after going to all the work replacing the main seal.
 
If they make a neoprene lip seal replacement, I'd use that. The rope seal is 1920's technology and no fun at all to replace compared to rolling in a neoprene lip seal.
 
76zimmer said:
There is a replacement upgrade out there.
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Yes, that is the one I'm looking at.

Overwhelming internet opinion seems to be the motor needs to come out. I've done several main seals in my trucks and I've done one in the cuda. Yes it's always a chore, but I'm wondering if the Buick could be that much more difficult. I guess I'm trying to avoid the MAW trap that is sure the follow if we pull the engine.
 
I think it's going to depend mostly on whether you can get the oil pan off in the car, have a good look at that.
 
I used to do it in mid 80's Buicks all the time on lift, at the agency.
It must not have been horrible, cause I can't remember any special must do's
I remember looking at a 72 Buick Astro( nova) 455, guy wanted my to it on the ground in his garage. I jacked it up looked around and said no.
 
Something to think about Scott, are the guys who are posting to pull the engine lacking the drive to do it old school? Or would they rather take the time to pull it and do other things ( rabbit hole) while it's out?
Maybe if you take a good look yourself and investigate hands-on, then it will help you decide?
I know that my '68 C10 needed the small block lifted some and the crankshaft positioned properly to get the front of the pan to slide out. Maybe there's a combination for the Buick?
 
yeah in the car rotating the crank while going out and in is must, defiantly will have to raise the engine, Possibly drop the pump, and install while pan is loose. it's been over 35 years since I worked at buick.
 
6872xtc said:
Something to think about Scott, are the guys who are posting to pull the engine lacking the drive to do it old school? Or would they rather take the time to pull it and do other things ( rabbit hole) while it's out?
Maybe if you take a good look yourself and investigate hands-on, then it will help you decide?
I know that my '68 C10 needed the small block lifted some and the crankshaft positioned properly to get the front of the pan to slide out. Maybe there's a combination for the Buick?
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That's what I'm thinking. I've noticed a lot of other forums are populated by people that don't seem willing to take on a challenge. Even worse when it comes to fabrication.

Wes Harden said:
yeah in the car rotating the crank while going out and in is must, defiantly will have to raise the engine, Possibly drop the pump, and install while pan is loose. it's been over 35 years since I worked at buick.
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I've known the oil pan needs a new gasket so the last time I was under the car, I was paying attention to the oil pan situation an it looked like it should come off. However I was thinking maybe the oil pump pickup makes it more of a challenge. I did see one person say that the engine needs lifted about 3".

I figure we will give it a try and worse comes to worst, we'll pull the engine. Who knows where that might lead. :rotfl: :doah:
 
The intake was just done I figure the valve covers too recently that only leave the bottom and front crank. I would pull it to, nothing suckyer than oil dripping on you while trying to seal it up. Plus I know on the stand it'll get sealed up right. That said I am getting ready to the burb pan and timing cover seal in the truck, plus I need to do at least 1 valve cover.
 
Being a car that belongs to a younger person, who may have limited funds, I'd stick with pull it, clean it up, reseal it and put it back in. Gives a chance to clean and paint the front frame, firewall etc too so when he does eventually upgrade to a 455 a lot of the shit work is already done. The bonus is down time is limited and he can get back to driving it sooner than later.
 
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