He may have ordered one already, not sure if I need a middle man to get one? No offense.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
1972 K5 "Boise" Blazer Build (advice appreciated) mostly DIY.
- Thread starter Bernard IV
- Start date
We also decided to go with black over white for the color scheme like this one.
My goal was to save you a little money and make some money at the same time, but if you can get it without a dealer or for a better price somewhere then no worries.
Tried separating the top from the body we cut off and it turns out I completely missed the two bolts running up through where the visor connects. Cut this body for nothing lol. I think I'm going to restore this top myself.
I got the gas tank in. The GM dealer damaged the engine in shipping somehow so they are sending another one so waiting on that before I put the chassis together.
Finally got the SP383.
@Wes Harden Is this the engine mount setup I need?
Mount and crossmember:
www.offroaddesign.com
Mount and crossmember:
Small Block Motor Mount and Crossmember Combo Kit for 73-91 GM/Chevy Full-Size
Combination Kit of Competition Style Motor Mounts for 73-87 GM with Small Block High Clearance Engine Crossmember Our small block version crossmember offers greater clearance to the front axle for suspension travel, but tucks up tighter to the engine. This is recommended for low lift/long...
www.offroaddesign.com
I am not sure if this will work on gen 1 k5.
This is what they told me in an email:
Hi Bernard, you can use our 73-87 engine crossmember along with our HD motor mounts. While the crossmember is listed for the 73 and later trucks it does work on the 67-72 platform. The hole spacing is different between the generations so you will have to drill new mounting holes in your frame and requires the use of the 73 and later motor mount perches which you are already planning on using so it should work well for your application.
Do I also need the part that the mount bolts to from the 73 trucks? Will this work with the brackets that run to the aluminum bellhousing?
I wonder if I could also just use the 1st gen crossmember that I already have and just put normal mounts along with the square body brackets (that brace to the bellhousing?) Not sure what your vision was. I don't know if the pan will clear that also.
Hi Bernard, you can use our 73-87 engine crossmember along with our HD motor mounts. While the crossmember is listed for the 73 and later trucks it does work on the 67-72 platform. The hole spacing is different between the generations so you will have to drill new mounting holes in your frame and requires the use of the 73 and later motor mount perches which you are already planning on using so it should work well for your application.
Do I also need the part that the mount bolts to from the 73 trucks? Will this work with the brackets that run to the aluminum bellhousing?
I wonder if I could also just use the 1st gen crossmember that I already have and just put normal mounts along with the square body brackets (that brace to the bellhousing?) Not sure what your vision was. I don't know if the pan will clear that also.
The hitch is finished and the final coat of paint applied to the frame. I had a back problem so had not worked on this for a few months but am doing well now.
Axles going in.
The 700R4 engine combo is 4 1/4 inches longer than the TH350 setup. I think we will just redrill the mounting holes and possibly move the engine up a little to compensate. I plan to use the factory engine mount setup. I checked and it fits fine with the new transmission cover braces.
I would not move the engine up. I would think that you want to keep the center of gravity low.
Forward I meant.
ekajkrats
1/2 ton status
I'm trying to remember if the frames had forward holes where the big blocks went, just because the trucks came with them. I know K5s didn't have BB. You may still have to move the transmission/transfer case. Also I think if you move the engine forward electric fans can help with the space.
For sure we are doing electric fans so I think we will have room. It might be best to just move the transfer case back as I'm sure the Blazer is a bit nose heavy anyway. Not sure if this would be too hard on the rear drive shaft angle though.
Keep the engine mounts the same and drill new holes in the frame further back for the crossmember, they may already be there.
You are correct to worry about rear drive dhaft angles. Looking like you will need need a cv style rear shaft made and convert the t case to a flange.
Your front shaft angles will benefit from the extra 4" you'll have good clearance on the front shaft using that spacer.
Your front shaft angles will benefit from the extra 4" you'll have good clearance on the front shaft using that spacer.
We have a 2.5 inch lift. I assume it would be most beneficial to move the engine, trans, and transfer case forward as the front drive rarely moves but not sure how much space we have to do that.
Last edited:
If you moved it at all, i wouldn't move more then 1". This will give you better access to the distributor and oil pressure port. You have to consider clearance for the diff oil pan relation, front cross member balancer/pulley, possible header engine mount pedestal interference.
Move and engine is not something to be done with out careful checks.
Move and engine is not something to be done with out careful checks.
