CK5
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1972 K5 Frame Off RestoMod - LS3 w/ 4L70e
- Thread starter brianfeiden
- Start date
4l60e, 4l65e, and 4l70e are all the same case. Only internal differences...
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2018
- Posts
- 28
- Reaction score
- 70
Back from powder coating today and springs arrive tomorrow!!! Soon we'll have a rolling chassis!
Wow, amazing work! Will be watching.......
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2018
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- 28
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- 70
Talked with my little brother last week about the appropriate stereo equipment...and this is the result. I guess if I'm going to go...I should go all the way. 
Talked with my little brother last week about the appropriate stereo equipment...and this is the result. I guess if I'm going to go...I should go all the way.
View attachment 260693
Please don’t cut the dash to jam an enormous CarPlay headunit in there....
Hacking a 1st Gen dash for a single-DIN unit hurts my soul....a double-DIN sized cutout is tragic.
-G
ekajkrats
1/2 ton status
I'll be the devil's advocate and say put it in if it will get you in the Blazer more because the ride is more enjoyable. The patch panel for the area is readily available if you ever want that area back to a stock look and Greg's soul to be whole again.
-Jacob
I agree with the sentiment, but honestly we all hack the crap out of every part of these trucks already. No reason why the center of the dash should be "sacred". Of course for @Greg72 , maybe that is the only part he didn't cut up, so makes sense.
Generally, I try to stick with keeping it looking as close to "stock" as I can, while still getting the functionality that I want. Obviously "as close to stock as possible" is opinion, and varies for all of us.
With bluetooth technology I've become a bigger fan of a completely hidden audio system. The new retro decks with the old school knobs are pretty slick too.
I agree with the sentiment, but honestly we all hack the crap out of every part of these trucks already. No reason why the center of the dash should be "sacred". Of course for @Greg72 , maybe that is the only part he didn't cut up, so makes sense.
Generally, I try to stick with keeping it looking as close to "stock" as I can, while still getting the functionality that I want. Obviously "as close to stock as possible" is opinion, and varies for all of us.
First of all..... build what you like.
I'm not going to fault anyone for their choices, but I think it's fair to occasionally take people to task to make sure they are thinking their decisions all the way through....and maybe offer a compelling counterpoint for their consideration.
When it comes to the beloved 1st Gen Blazer, there are a few modifications that are simply "too much"... (IMHO)
- Cowl hoods
- Late model high-back seats with headrests (especially the ones with the integrated seatbelts)
- Bushwacker cutout-style flares, or any fender mods that do not preserve the "roundness" of the original design.
- Dakota Digital dashboards
- Single or Double-DIN headunits in the original AM radio location
- 20+" Bro-Wheels
- Billet tube grilles
When you are in a classic 50-year old truck, there are certain items that should be reminiscent of the original time period... to help it to feel "retro". Otherwise it starts to feel a completely modern vehicle with a veneer of old Chevy sheetmetal hung on the outside of it.
Resto-Mod is a pretty broad term. Some people are more willing to throw away a much larger percentage of the original "vibe" of the truck in favor of modern conveniences or comfort. Personally, when the time comes to actually drive my truck, I'd like to think that it will be important to me to leave the text messaging and email notifications behind and just enjoy the experience of being in an old truck surrounded by as many of the old visual cues (dashboard, AM radio, old green-lettered gauges, houndstooth seat fabrics, etc) as possible. Even something as simple as the "smell" of the old vinyl door panels and seats creates a strong connection to those "old days" for me.
FWIW.
-G
That's a pretty good list.
(Now I'm wondering if I can find a pic of a 1st gen with everything on that list)
I'm pretty sure the owner would have skinny jeans and a monster energy drink logo somewhere.
I’m doing a similar swap but with a 4l80e. I’m using the Tilden crossmember. My reasoning for the Tilden crossmember is it uses the original crossmember holes and has some adjustability. It is fully welded but no removable crossmember. I like the fact I don’t have to move my brake lines either. The transmission is really long and pushes the engine forward a couple more inches vs the 4l60/70. Ive measured a lot so I think it will fit fine while being a little tight up front. I used an off-road design np205 tcase (32 spline) and adapter.
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2018
- Posts
- 28
- Reaction score
- 70
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2018
- Posts
- 28
- Reaction score
- 70
First of all..... build what you like.
I'm not going to fault anyone for their choices, but I think it's fair to occasionally take people to task to make sure they are thinking their decisions all the way through....and maybe offer a compelling counterpoint for their consideration.
When it comes to the beloved 1st Gen Blazer, there are a few modifications that are simply "too much"... (IMHO)
- Cowl hoods
- Late model high-back seats with headrests (especially the ones with the integrated seatbelts)
- Bushwacker cutout-style flares, or any fender mods that do not preserve the "roundness" of the original design.
- Dakota Digital dashboards
- Single or Double-DIN headunits in the original AM radio location
- 20+" Bro-Wheels
- Billet tube grilles
When you are in a classic 50-year old truck, there are certain items that should be reminiscent of the original time period... to help it to feel "retro". Otherwise it starts to feel a completely modern vehicle with a veneer of old Chevy sheetmetal hung on the outside of it.
Resto-Mod is a pretty broad term. Some people are more willing to throw away a much larger percentage of the original "vibe" of the truck in favor of modern conveniences or comfort. Personally, when the time comes to actually drive my truck, I'd like to think that it will be important to me to leave the text messaging and email notifications behind and just enjoy the experience of being in an old truck surrounded by as many of the old visual cues (dashboard, AM radio, old green-lettered gauges, houndstooth seat fabrics, etc) as possible. Even something as simple as the "smell" of the old vinyl door panels and seats creates a strong connection to those "old days" for me.
FWIW.
-G
Greg - In many ways, I agree with you. That said, I am going to ding your soul just a tad...I am doing 2 out of your 7 listed...double DIN and Dakota Digital dash. If I were going back with a stock 350, I would keep original gauges. Since we're bringing the drivetrain up to the 21st century, I am bringing the gauges along with it.
When you see the finished product, I hope you'll have enough love for everything I have done...and the good outweighs the "too much"...and your soul remains unscathed.
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2018
- Posts
- 28
- Reaction score
- 70
Updated photos...I've been out of town a lot over the last 45 days, so we didn't make a ton of progress. Now we're back in action. Here is a list of what you see -
Waiting on front hubs and NP205 Advance Adaptor kit. Once they arrive we'll install old wheels/tires and get the drivetrain married up! Then we can get moving on all the lines/wiring. Unfortunately the body guys won't be starting until late June...so we're likely to be mid-late summer before it's on the road. I guess if we complete this within 9 months, that's not too bad.
- Moser axles in 12 bolt
- Richmond 4:10 ring/pinion
- Eaton posi limited slip diff
- Classic Performance disc brake conversion
- Offroad Design suspension lift
- 6" lift with 2" shackle flip on rear
- Alcan springs
- Bilstein 5100 series shocks
Waiting on front hubs and NP205 Advance Adaptor kit. Once they arrive we'll install old wheels/tires and get the drivetrain married up! Then we can get moving on all the lines/wiring. Unfortunately the body guys won't be starting until late June...so we're likely to be mid-late summer before it's on the road. I guess if we complete this within 9 months, that's not too bad.
I’m looking forward to the day when my build reaches “assembly of clean, painted and rust-free parts”....
Finishing up an evening of work and still having clean hands (and face) will be a nice change of pace.
-G
Finishing up an evening of work and still having clean hands (and face) will be a nice change of pace.
-G
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2018
- Posts
- 28
- Reaction score
- 70
Greg - I’ve decided to leave the original dash in-tact!! I’m building a mount for inside the center console which will house the double din. Going back with factory head unit in dash. You are right and I’m heeding your advice.
Greg - I’ve decided to leave the original dash in-tact!! I’m building a mount for inside the center console which will house the double din. Going back with factory head unit in dash. You are right and I’m heeding your advice.
I think in the long run you will be glad you reconsidered.
I'm going to get a fully-restored AM radio for my dash and have an underdash speaker to actually play it. Then a second fully-stealth system based on some kind of CarPlay type setup.
The factory radio is a cool vintage accent to the interior... it's always nice to see them in 1st Gens instead of modern radios (IMHO)
-G
