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1973-'75 Blazer Rocker, Floor, Support Assembly Drawings

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Gravityhotspot

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I'm, like most, having to replace part of the floor, some of the supports, inside/outside rockers, kick plate etcetera. I purchased and received everything LMC has to offer. I can see it will take some mods to make everything fit. Is there an assembly manual, like I've seen for the first gen blazers? Just a complete exploded view would be so helpful. It doesn't have to be free as the time save will offset the cost. The rust isn't as bad as a lot I've seen but there are about 4 pieces that all have to come together while still allowing the door to close and the body lines be ok. In my case, the worst of the deterioration is where everything was joined and I wasn't able to tell exactly how it goes together or create any patterns. I know of 1 piece, from watching YouTube, that must be created because know one makes it and it is just gone.

Also on the torque box, how much flaking rust is too much? It seem solid but more than surface rust. The pervious genius owner filled the torque box full of expanding foam to support the rusted floor and made it worse that it needed to be. I bet know one has ever seen this happen. I've thought about welding in supports to be safe since the front of the torque box will not be easy to replicate.
 
Gravityhotspot said:
I'm, like most, having to replace part of the floor, some of the supports, inside/outside rockers, kick plate etcetera. I purchased and received everything LMC has to offer. I can see it will take some mods to make everything fit. Is there an assembly manual, like I've seen for the first gen blazers? Just a complete exploded view would be so helpful. It doesn't have to be free as the time save will offset the cost. The rust isn't as bad as a lot I've seen but there are about 4 pieces that all have to come together while still allowing the door to close and the body lines be ok. In my case, the worst of the deterioration is where everything was joined and I wasn't able to tell exactly how it goes together or create any patterns. I know of 1 piece, from watching YouTube, that must be created because know one makes it and it is just gone.

Also on the torque box, how much flaking rust is too much? It seem solid but more than surface rust. The pervious genius owner filled the torque box full of expanding foam to support the rusted floor and made it worse that it needed to be. I bet know one has ever seen this happen. I've thought about welding in supports to be safe since the front of the torque box will not be easy to replicate.
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i'm not aware of any assembly manual. i did a fair amout of searching before i started mine. there are quite a few 73-75 builds on here that do a pretty good job on showing how the components fit togeter. i can't recall their names but it should be something that's searchable on the site. some parts are hard to understand until you get the rust cut out. i braced the door frame with 1 in steel bar welded between a and b pillars before i started cutting but some people use the hinges with metal welded to the b pillar and bolted to the hinges. i have a pic of the part you have to make with measurements on the last page of my build if that would help you. as you can tell from my build, i had a genius for a previous owner too, haha. good luck!
 
Thanks a bunch. I need to figure out how to search. I guess I should start a build thread so I can post pictures that others may not have. Up until now I've just been lurking on the site but now that I've actually started my build I need to get a little more involved. I braced the door frames using 1" square tubing to triangulate between the hinge bolts and the striker bolt. I also still have the roll bar in so I braced from the windshield to the roll bar. I sure hope nothing has shifted.
 
I replaced my entire front floors, kicker panel, inner and outer rocker and the body mount support.

Pictures in this thread of how most of it goes together

Roll Cage vs Rocker Box on '74 Blazer

Welded in the outer rocker, hung the fender, and installed my new battery tray (old one was rusted away). Tmrw I'll hang the door and hopefully not have to re shim the fender to much.
ck5.com ck5.com
 
Thanks a bunch! Yours looks great. Not only inspirational for when I think what the crap did I get into but the pictures help a bunch. I've got to start posting some pictures and start doing my part to pay this forward. You guys are awesome.
 
If you have the hardtop. Keep it on and do a cross brace for the windshield frame also.

Mine had been topless for many years with two rusted out front body mount braces. Resulting in a out of spec inward leaning windshield frame on the driver side.

I had lots of headaches aligning the door gaps. But got it "good enough" for cruising. Only the die hard c10 perfectionist notice haha.
 
I only had half of the top as the original owner cut the back half off. Once I had the body mounted to the rotisserie frame via the body mount locations I took it off and tossed it. I did leave the roll bar on and supported from the windshield bolts straight to the roll bar and I'm doing only one side at a time leaving the other door on. I'm a little nervous now and maybe this weekend I'll X-brace from the windshield to the roll bar. Mine is a resto mod that I intend to drive...vigorously on trials. So if mine turns out as nice as yours I'll be really happy. My quest for quality is not only function but personal pride because if/when I sell it I want the new owner to have something to work with and doesn't label me too big of a dumb butt.
 
I braced from the upper door hinge to the striker bolt hole. Then my soft top bracket was bracing the same windshield frame to the b pillar area.

I had no clue the driver side windshield frame had drooped prior to my tear down. I didn't find out until after I welded the driver side back together. It would have been easily fixed by pushing the frame back and welding it all together. But since I had it all buttoned up and painted I chose to live with less then perfect door gap. But door closes great and it's water tight.

It's not scary or hard just time consuming. You will do a great job and be very proud. Careful taking doors and hood off. They're heavy!
 
For sure on the heavy and awkward. Fortunately I have become very adapt at using my engine hoist to lift most things. So much so that I've ordered the air/hydraulic cylinder replacement so I don't have to hand pump it.

I'm going to keep looking for a factory assembly manual. I know they exist because I have seen, on other forums, posted random sheets. If anyone has any information on where to get a copy I'd love to get one.
 
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