Where I am it tickled 100.
By the way my big rig runs 210-215 all the time occasionally hitting 220 then back down.
They run cleaner at those temperatures.
As long as the cooling system is good and keeps it there.
CK5
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Ultimate cooling set up
- Thread starter Chris Ziemer
- Start date
By the way my big rig runs 210-215 all the time occasionally hitting 220 then back down.
They run cleaner at those temperatures.
As long as the cooling system is good and keeps it there.
Maybe I could have sworn they said triflow when I looking at them a few weeks ago.You must be looking at this radiator, thereabouts. I like it. I don’t know what else a guy could do.
67-76 Chevy GMC Pickup Truck Aluminum Performance Radiator
1967-1976 Chevy/GMC Truck Aluminum Performance Radiator. For use with 4 core mounting brackets and insulators. Or you can modify 3 core version. These COLD-CASE radiators are Tig welded 100 percent aluminum and absolutely beautiful. Don't buy a 3 or 4 row aluminum radiator! It doesn't cool as...www.coldcaseradiators.com
Disclaimer; I’ve never used a performance aluminum radiator like you guys are discussing.
I know there’s a big difference in individual row size (which affects the quantity used) but what about surface area vs cooling ability? Does having fewer huge rows actually cool better than more smaller rows? Can the cooling effects penetrate to all of the water volume before it exits the tube? It takes longer to make a gallon of water cold than a glass in the same refrigerator so I’m wondering if more smaller rows dissipate heat better than fewer bigger rows (does smaller = ultimately more efficient surface area).
Sort like the theory of removing a thermostat. People think it’ll cool better because you allow the water flow more but the reality is the water no longer stays in a given area long enough to absorb or dissipate the heat so it’s less effective.
I know there’s a big difference in individual row size (which affects the quantity used) but what about surface area vs cooling ability? Does having fewer huge rows actually cool better than more smaller rows? Can the cooling effects penetrate to all of the water volume before it exits the tube? It takes longer to make a gallon of water cold than a glass in the same refrigerator so I’m wondering if more smaller rows dissipate heat better than fewer bigger rows (does smaller = ultimately more efficient surface area).
Sort like the theory of removing a thermostat. People think it’ll cool better because you allow the water flow more but the reality is the water no longer stays in a given area long enough to absorb or dissipate the heat so it’s less effective.
I am sure there is a balance, or a ratio, of tube size and fin count.
I am beginning to be in the thinner for better air flow camp myself.
I am beginning to be in the thinner for better air flow camp myself.
I’m running the largest radiator GM offered for squares as in the 6.2 diesel/big block unit. I have the factory shroud combined with a HD fan clutch and a plastic fan off of a gmt800 truck. Keeps my 8.1 running at 180 90% of the time. I ran the same setup with a 5.3 LS and it actually struggled to maintain thermostat temp because it cooled so well even in 90 to 100 degree ambient temps.
With the big block it rarely goes hot enough to kick the fan clutch on. When it does, you know. It’s loud as hell. Temp falls quickly and the clutch kicks out. I’ve been in the desert southwest in 100 degree heat and higher and never once had it spike or overheat.
With the big block it rarely goes hot enough to kick the fan clutch on. When it does, you know. It’s loud as hell. Temp falls quickly and the clutch kicks out. I’ve been in the desert southwest in 100 degree heat and higher and never once had it spike or overheat.
What water pump are you using?
I had a brand new one from NAPA that wouldn't keep my big block under 210* in 80* ambient. I spent too much time and money trying an aluminum radiator, added extra coolant steam lines to the intake manifold, different thermostats, because everyone said that a new unit shouldn't be the problem.
I ran it that way until winter came and I noticed that I didn't have much heat in the cab.
So I spent the money for an Edelbrock water pump rather than gambling on another parts store unit. This completely cured my problem. I had more hest in the cab with a 160* T-stat, than with a 195* and the NAPA pump.
I went back to a 180* in it and closed the valves on the steam lines.
My point is, check for decent water movement somehow.
My '90 Jimmy is using a 4 row copper/brass radiator, new autozone water pump, a TBI fan clutch with an 11 blade Vortec plastic fan. It's a serpentine accessory drive. I use my A/C while wheeling on the rocks of Moab in 98* heat, in a black truck.
It's a 350 with aluminum heads and EFI.
So an Edelbrock pump isn't mandatory.
I do use Flow-cooler thermostats.
I had a brand new one from NAPA that wouldn't keep my big block under 210* in 80* ambient. I spent too much time and money trying an aluminum radiator, added extra coolant steam lines to the intake manifold, different thermostats, because everyone said that a new unit shouldn't be the problem.
I ran it that way until winter came and I noticed that I didn't have much heat in the cab.
So I spent the money for an Edelbrock water pump rather than gambling on another parts store unit. This completely cured my problem. I had more hest in the cab with a 160* T-stat, than with a 195* and the NAPA pump.
I went back to a 180* in it and closed the valves on the steam lines.
My point is, check for decent water movement somehow.
My '90 Jimmy is using a 4 row copper/brass radiator, new autozone water pump, a TBI fan clutch with an 11 blade Vortec plastic fan. It's a serpentine accessory drive. I use my A/C while wheeling on the rocks of Moab in 98* heat, in a black truck.
It's a 350 with aluminum heads and EFI.
So an Edelbrock pump isn't mandatory.
I do use Flow-cooler thermostats.
In 1989 my buddy put one of my old SBC’s in a ‘86 Yota and did a beautiful installation but had overheating issues constantly.
He could not figure out what was wrong because he had a healthy Land Cruiser FJ40 four row radiator and the S/D 7-blade fan and clutch setup - it was a mystery.
Then we all went over to check it out because he was at his wits end - he popped the hood and I noticed that he had an aluminum water pump ( this was in ‘89 so those weren’t readily available yet ) and he said he ordered it from a ‘87 Vette because he liked the aluminum look.
I pointed out that an ‘87 Vette had a serpentine belt setup and that his W/P impeller was turning backwards with a regular V-belt setup - swapped out for a correct pump and all was well from that point onwards.
Moral of this story - verify all parts are working in harmony together and also, double check everything ya’ get from the parts houses because there is a bunch of re-boxing going on on by folks who know nothing about parts knowledge. And finally the failure rate of brand named new parts is very high nowadays - new does not automatically equal good!
Yep. I had bought an overpriced "BeCool" radiator, even though I had seen many of the '67-'72 trucks use a standard copper/brass 4 row with few problems. That radiator started leaking at the header panel after 13 months. They told to get it repaired with epoxy.
I ditched it 6 months later for a Northern brand which fit slightly better and was a third of the price.
I ditched it 6 months later for a Northern brand which fit slightly better and was a third of the price.
The Edelbrock water pump has an aluminum housing which in theory should transfer heat itself better. More importantly it should be a known good part built by people who not only know what quality control is but actually practice it. I put one on my Big Block in my M715 20 years ago and it did make a difference compared to the parts store pump that wasn’t keeping up.
The biggest difference was a 2 row aluminum radiator from Summit. Which brings up radiators. My 6.5 diesel stuffed into a 1987 V2500 Suburban with a Banks turbo and the GM 4 core 6.2 radiator would hit 210° anytime I went over 60 mph when it was hotter than 90° out and the A/C was on. (Basically what the original post mentioned). This was right after I built the truck 9 years ago and it had me worried. Duramax big fan helped some. I went to a “heavy duty” fan clutch and it helped a little.
What made it right was a 2 row aluminum radiator from radiator express. Massive difference when driving on flat ground and at slow speed. Heavy duty and super duty fan clutch names are kind of misleading. 80% lock up for 5 minutes sounds good until you are going up hill in the heat with a trailer. I ended up with a fan clutch that does 95% lock up for up to 27 minutes. When that thing kicks in I can feel it in the throttle and hear the roar! 1998-2001 6.5 3500 fan clutch that has the huge nut attachment to the water pump compared to the 4 studs the not as good fan clutches used. Yes, I had to change my water pump as well to fit it. Basically, I did the Heath Diesel super duty cooling upgrade. There has to be something similar for the big blocks of the same era.
All of that money and time spent made it so I never got over 214° with a trailer going up hill in extreme heat. I still thought it was too hot, but nothing was getting damaged. Then, my Dakota Digital temperature sender failed. They sent me a new one for free even though it had been 8 years since I bought their dash. That one showed a hotter temperature at all times. I ended up in a deep dive on temperature senders and finally installed a VDO sender. Now, with nothing else changed I haven’t seen more than 204° 2 summers into using it.
Which in my mind brings up the original posters issue. Is it even an issue? Could it just be a 40 plus year old gauge gone bad? Does it ever ping, run on or turn really slow when trying to start hot? Here is a video about my sender issues:
The biggest difference was a 2 row aluminum radiator from Summit. Which brings up radiators. My 6.5 diesel stuffed into a 1987 V2500 Suburban with a Banks turbo and the GM 4 core 6.2 radiator would hit 210° anytime I went over 60 mph when it was hotter than 90° out and the A/C was on. (Basically what the original post mentioned). This was right after I built the truck 9 years ago and it had me worried. Duramax big fan helped some. I went to a “heavy duty” fan clutch and it helped a little.
What made it right was a 2 row aluminum radiator from radiator express. Massive difference when driving on flat ground and at slow speed. Heavy duty and super duty fan clutch names are kind of misleading. 80% lock up for 5 minutes sounds good until you are going up hill in the heat with a trailer. I ended up with a fan clutch that does 95% lock up for up to 27 minutes. When that thing kicks in I can feel it in the throttle and hear the roar! 1998-2001 6.5 3500 fan clutch that has the huge nut attachment to the water pump compared to the 4 studs the not as good fan clutches used. Yes, I had to change my water pump as well to fit it. Basically, I did the Heath Diesel super duty cooling upgrade. There has to be something similar for the big blocks of the same era.
All of that money and time spent made it so I never got over 214° with a trailer going up hill in extreme heat. I still thought it was too hot, but nothing was getting damaged. Then, my Dakota Digital temperature sender failed. They sent me a new one for free even though it had been 8 years since I bought their dash. That one showed a hotter temperature at all times. I ended up in a deep dive on temperature senders and finally installed a VDO sender. Now, with nothing else changed I haven’t seen more than 204° 2 summers into using it.
Which in my mind brings up the original posters issue. Is it even an issue? Could it just be a 40 plus year old gauge gone bad? Does it ever ping, run on or turn really slow when trying to start hot? Here is a video about my sender issues:
I never opened up the NAPA one because I was mad about all of the extra work and money it had caused me. So it went into the scrap bin after a vengeful toss!
I had looked into the testing of the Edelbrock unit and their claims of balanced flow along with better flow.
I have one on my 406 small block in my '72 C10 as well, but that was initially to get the cam stop bolt in a short water pump application. It has a solid roller cam and I liked that option vs others for cam thrust control.
$ row GM original from a dually BB engine compartment. Stock fan, clutch and shroud. 5.7L that runs all day out wheeling. I did not shut it off at lunch or stops. Never ran over 185*. Condenser is still there. Ran the A/C until the evaporator died.
If a 34x20 radiator pulling outside air isn't cooling the engine, I wouldn't expect much help from switching to an AL water pump. Anybody have experience with "high flow" vs. standard thermostats or so-called "high flow" pumps?
I think for heavy towing, a tight clutch fan can't be beat. A mechanical fan has been measured as high as 20HP at high rpm, so even if you get 1/4 of that at your towing RPM, that's the equivalent of your electric fan pulling 300A, so it's clearly in a different category. For crawling and stoplights, good electrics win, especially when we're talking about A/C performance. The engine isn't making nearly the heat at idle as it is ripping your trailer up the mountain.
I think for heavy towing, a tight clutch fan can't be beat. A mechanical fan has been measured as high as 20HP at high rpm, so even if you get 1/4 of that at your towing RPM, that's the equivalent of your electric fan pulling 300A, so it's clearly in a different category. For crawling and stoplights, good electrics win, especially when we're talking about A/C performance. The engine isn't making nearly the heat at idle as it is ripping your trailer up the mountain.
Wheeling all over Moab no issues, ac on too, never any issue. Temps there in Sept are sub 100°.
today is the drive home at 107° ambient with VP Cool Down added to cooling system, temp gauge ran 1/3 as opposed to half yesterday at @110° sub 60° temps on the AC.
today is the drive home at 107° ambient with VP Cool Down added to cooling system, temp gauge ran 1/3 as opposed to half yesterday at @110° sub 60° temps on the AC.
Years ago Edlebrock water pumps were using a better grade bearing, shaft and seal combo.
A guy came in the store ( Motion Industries ) look’n to replace this oddball looking bearing and shaft setup and while I was searching for some external numbers and getting measurements I asked him if it was from a water pump and he said yes.
Once I located one it ended up being a high-capacity ( extra ball count ) and row of bearings instead of the cheapest offerings most parts house name brands used.
No idea if they still use the better grade stuff though.
This was for durability not additional cooling ability - the impeller design would make that better.
A guy came in the store ( Motion Industries ) look’n to replace this oddball looking bearing and shaft setup and while I was searching for some external numbers and getting measurements I asked him if it was from a water pump and he said yes.
Once I located one it ended up being a high-capacity ( extra ball count ) and row of bearings instead of the cheapest offerings most parts house name brands used.
No idea if they still use the better grade stuff though.
This was for durability not additional cooling ability - the impeller design would make that better.
That was what I believe that I had read as well.
In my opinion, I would rather have a cast iron water pump bolted to my cast iron engine block for matching thermal expansion. I mainly wanted a well made pump with supposedly proven improvements.
I doubt that the pump housing material would be a noticeable improvement in cooling, but I don't know.
I have been using Flow-cooler thermostats since they were Robert Shaw. I had seen too many parts store ones go above temp before opening, then swing up amd down in temperature.
Not much of that with these.
I agree - they’re not using aluminum for the pump because of its heat rejection properties. Edlebrock has such a large aluminum foundry that it’s more of a matter of convenience, accessibility and ease of machining during manufacturing processes.
I hope that they still use better grade parts and optimum impeller tech nowadays - I’d say it’s worth the risk over the crap passing as “top-shelf” parts at the retailers today.
