1973-75 rear side panels dried up!

[57horod]

Newbie so couldn’t post in body section.
Working on restoration rebuild on a ‘75 K5. Got frame blasted and painted all well there. Moved on to body and replaced most all floor, side kicks, rockers, partial firewall. Cut out rusty torsion boxes and going to fabricate torsions out of rectangle tube and additional stiffening with extended roll bar through cab to floor. Was able to score a new RH rear side panel through popular vendor but can’t find anything for LH side. I talked with all the vendors and all say these and many of the square body bedsides are not being supplied. They say they hadn’t received stock for anywhere from 2 years to 4 months. I have also been informed they don’t see anything coming until POSSIBLY mid summer..
Real bummer!
I suspect maybe an Executive embargo or GM licensing power play is in effect and has the door slammed shut for the GM bed panels now.
So....
I am turning to this forum for help or suggestions on a LH panel and have a idea to run past you guys.
I can get a 73-78 short box (6.5 foot) panel and modify but I’m curious if someone has a short box bed and can measure from center of wheel arch to rear top of panel. I’m curios if this dimension is same as blazers dimension.
I wouldn’t mind buying this panel if rear dimension is the same and enough panel still exists at front to rework around door jamb pillar. I’d also have to fill the stake pockets and weld in cage nuts for the top.
Any experienced suggestions or better yet detailed measurements on the short box panel as described is much appreciated!
P.S. I’ll work on posting some pics and even some for follow along if this goes somewhere.
Thanks fellas!

 

[tenderfoot]

 

[57horod]

Lol....
So just to simplify.... I’m looking for a body panel measurement from a kind hearted short bed 1973-78 K10 or C10 owner. Preceding years may be same measurement but not sure so would rather stick with ‘73-‘78
If can, please measure across top of short bed rail starting at rear to approximate wheel arch center. One could take a small piece of string and tie a washer or nut to it and possibly lower to a rough center measurement to transfer rough idea of centerline to top of rail for measuring. Close enough. Would also like overall length
Thank you,....

 

[Chief Brody]

What are you trying to find? A rear quarter panel (drivers side) for a 1975 Blazer?


http://www.usa1industries.com/1973-...r-gmc-jimmy-oem-style-quarter-panel-left.html

 

[57horod]

No luck there either Chief.
Yes I’m looking for the LH panel.
On a side note, usa1 specialize in close to oem parts which is great. Haven’t ever bought a panel from them however I’m informed The metal parts supplier they distribute for stamps from thicker metal unlike the China imports.
From what they say, they haven’t had 73-91 full size blazer panel in 7 years.
Hard to believe since I would think the square body has to be the longest running body type ever by an auto maker.
Nice to talk with on the phone. Unlike some, they where willing to make suggestions and give some guidance.
I’m still on the hunt. As they suggested. I guess I’ll start looking on the west coast for a good used panel anywhere in between and up to ‘91
Anyone out there with a good panel that can help please let me know.
Thanks for reply.

 

[frankin5]

Hard to believe since I would think the square body has to be the longest running body type ever by an auto maker.

You have to remember how many of them have been consumed by the RUST BELT and other areas that use salt or metal eating chemicals.

 

[57horod]

I fall in the rust belt category.
Oh I’m sure it runs into a lot. The upper quality thicker panels that some vendors had are long gone and nobody’s doing it anymore. According to some vendors I spoke with it’s been anywhere from 4 to seven years since they had any. The demand is still high according to the vendor I just purchased a RH panel from. (Lower quality) With these trucks becoming evermore popular to fix now the demand will increase. I would think that over $300 bucks a panel and a huge demand someone would still be stamping. If anything they could probably ask another $200 on top and get it.
I have a lot of metal work already in my project so I’m locked into doing something.
I see your from California frankin5, do you know of any reclaimers there that supply good used body panels?
Thank you.

 

[57horod]

So anyhow my question still remains.
I can get a short bed truck box panel but I’m still wondering about that rear portion measurement.
The short box measures 6.5’ and the blazer is 6’ and if rear of panel to center of wheel is same than it can probably be lightly modified to work.
I would think that someone else has traveled this road and has experience.

 

[rampage]

Here you go. Never worry about rust again.

http://www.usbody.com

 

[diesel4me]

Can you list the places you've already tried ?..
I know of a few sources,but don't want to waste time listing places you've already struck out at..

 

[57horod]

Here you go. Never worry about rust again.

http://www.usbody.com

Man....I get it but I can’t go fiberglass especially since I have tons of time in metal now. For me metal is the only way to go. I probably could have saved the upper part of the panels. There was some rust at top rail. Surprisingly the inner panel are in pretty good shape other than a small area around the inner fender tub. The truck had a good bit of undercoating shot on/in it. I mostly wanted to open everything up and get all abrasive blasted and epoxy primmered. From the body belt crease line down wasn’t in to bad of shape. They make plenty of patch parts. I didn’t think I’d run into this problem. For anyone else my word of advice is get all your parts first before you cut them out....lol
Thanks for the lead though.
If you find or know of any metal old truck reclaimers around your neck of the woods please let me know.

 

[57horod]

Can you list the places you've already tried ?..
I know of a few sources,but don't want to waste time listing places you've already struck out at..

LMC
Classic Industries
USA1 Industries
NPD
Ecklers
Mill Supply
Classic Parts
Any help is appreciated!
Thank you.

 

[rampage]

Try Vintage Chevy Trucks. They’re located in Fremont, CA, about as far away from you as you can get, but it’s an option. Their website sucks so you need to call/leave a message and see what’s available. I don’t know if Bill O’Grady still owns it but he use to buy up all the 1st gen trucks/Blazers and then did the same thing with square-bodies too. I think he was in touch with all the local scrap yards and they just sold to him.
http://www.vintagechevytrucks.com/?q=catalog/4

 

[Chief Brody]

They aren't the same because of the B Pillars...it would be rough making one fit. I'd keep looking for one before I tried to make a truck bed work.

What are your plans for this 1975? You restoring stock or what?

 

[57horod]

They aren't the same because of the B Pillars...it would be rough making one fit. I'd keep looking for one before I tried to make a truck bed work.

What are your plans for this 1975? You restoring stock or what?

Hey Chief,
Yeah I figure the metal work at the door pillar will be a process but I really don’t mind and have 100% confidence of making it work. My concern would be cutting the panel a few inches around the wheel profile and moving forward or back to match blazers profile. That’s a lot of work for sure. If truck panel has same dimension from rear of panel to center of wheel opening I think I’d be good as last resource now.
Your suggestion to keep looking is well heard my friend. I’m not in a big hurry as I am still doing lots of metal rehab work. I played some trying to post a few pics but the easy copy and paste from my iPad media didn’t seem to transfer. I suspect I’m going to have to use photobucket. I completed a 1957 GMC 100 a few years back and I recall having to use photobucket to post on a forum with that. The ‘57 sports a Fatman front crossmember and Corvette C4 front and rear suspension with ZZ4 Chevy crate. I fabed an all round tubular steel front flip. Did all paint and airbrush work. Body remained mostly stock. Turned out show.
What’s the easiest down and dirty to get pics posted here? I tried a search for how to post pics but didn’t get a result.
My plans are to get body straight and original. In about a year purchase an LS3. Retain the sm465, mp205, Dana 44 and corporate 12. Then as/if parts fail beef up from there. Truck has a 6” lift that is a bit high for me but I’ll have to roll like that till I get tired of the police pulling me over for it. Eventually pull body back off frame, box and crossmember for front and rear 4link and coil over setup about 4” rise. By that time I’m likely to have heavier up the axles and find how durable the drive train is under my foot.
My status here still doesn’t allow posting in body shop so I’m deciding to spend more money with a premium member here to allow that. I’d like to start a build thread and share with the enthusiasm. I’m working now on that square tube torsion box support structure under the tub now. I cut some 3.5” square tube long wise to use half for each side to cover inside rockers front to rear and up to 2nd bed support crossmember. I’m using 2x2 to frame up rest of member as wide as original and of course incorporate the front #2 body mount. I had to cut all that out also. Turning out nice.
Well don’t want to get long winded but that’s the overall plan.
I will return the original interior as best possible (blue low buckets, door panels, dash)
Probably make up oak wood grain inside bed panels with stainless trim.
Truck will remains it’s factory black color and I plan to use simulated silver leaf and charcoal pinstripe to simulate the original aluminum body side trim. The original body moldings are a dirt and crust rust collector! This truck will only do light wide open 4x4 fun and lots of shows. When you do the work yourself you fully appreciate the end result.
If can point me on how to easily post pics, I’ll get started on a prologue. Plenty of rest abatement now but done right.

 

[tenderfoot]

My status here still doesn’t allow posting in body shop so I’m deciding to spend more money with a premium member here to allow that

This will also solve the pic conundrum. And really with the depth your undertaking in resto I think you belong here! Guys like me will learn a lot from your build threads in the future.

 

[rampage]

To post pics you need to host the pic on a web hosting site like photobucket. Then copy the URL of its location, click on the image button (to the right of the smiley face) and paste the URL in the pop up box. Done.

 

[imiceman44]

Hey Chief,
Yeah I figure the metal work at the door pillar will be a process but I really don’t mind and have 100% confidence of making it work. My concern would be cutting the panel a few inches around the wheel profile and moving forward or back to match blazers profile. That’s a lot of work for sure. If truck panel has same dimension from rear of panel to center of wheel opening I think I’d be good as last resource now.
Your suggestion to keep looking is well heard my friend. I’m not in a big hurry as I am still doing lots of metal rehab work. I played some trying to post a few pics but the easy copy and paste from my iPad media didn’t seem to transfer. I suspect I’m going to have to use photobucket. I completed a 1957 GMC 100 a few years back and I recall having to use photobucket to post on a forum with that. The ‘57 sports a Fatman front crossmember and Corvette C4 front and rear suspension with ZZ4 Chevy crate. I fabed an all round tubular steel front flip. Did all paint and airbrush work. Body remained mostly stock. Turned out show.
What’s the easiest down and dirty to get pics posted here? I tried a search for how to post pics but didn’t get a result.
My plans are to get body straight and original. In about a year purchase an LS3. Retain the sm465, mp205, Dana 44 and corporate 12. Then as/if parts fail beef up from there. Truck has a 6” lift that is a bit high for me but I’ll have to roll like that till I get tired of the police pulling me over for it. Eventually pull body back off frame, box and crossmember for front and rear 4link and coil over setup about 4” rise. By that time I’m likely to have heavier up the axles and find how durable the drive train is under my foot.
My status here still doesn’t allow posting in body shop so I’m deciding to spend more money with a premium member here to allow that. I’d like to start a build thread and share with the enthusiasm. I’m working now on that square tube torsion box support structure under the tub now. I cut some 3.5” square tube long wise to use half for each side to cover inside rockers front to rear and up to 2nd bed support crossmember. I’m using 2x2 to frame up rest of member as wide as original and of course incorporate the front #2 body mount. I had to cut all that out also. Turning out nice.
Well don’t want to get long winded but that’s the overall plan.
I will return the original interior as best possible (blue low buckets, door panels, dash)
Probably make up oak wood grain inside bed panels with stainless trim.
Truck will remains it’s factory black color and I plan to use simulated silver leaf and charcoal pinstripe to simulate the original aluminum body side trim. The original body moldings are a dirt and crust rust collector! This truck will only do light wide open 4x4 fun and lots of shows. When you do the work yourself you fully appreciate the end result.
If can point me on how to easily post pics, I’ll get started on a prologue. Plenty of rest abatement now but done right.

I will save you time and tell you that the location of the wheel is different between all the gm products, blazer is closest to the back, then swb truck and lwb and finally the suburban.
Height is the same.
I am planning on parting a k5 in the near future and I will look to see how clean it is and then figure the shipping if it's worth it.

 

[57horod]

Try Vintage Chevy Trucks. They’re located in Fremont, CA, about as far away from you as you can get, but it’s an option. Their website sucks so you need to call/leave a message and see what’s available. I don’t know if Bill O’Grady still owns it but he use to buy up all the 1st gen trucks/Blazers and then did the same thing with square-bodies too. I think he was in touch with all the local scrap yards and they just sold to him.
http://www.vintagechevytrucks.com/?q=catalog/4

Thank you rampage,
Made the call and spoke with Bill. He said he hasn’t had a full size blazer body in a good long while. He commented that ever since they came out with “cash for clunkers”
Those have dried up....lol...my words exactly. Nice to talk with him. He said he could help me out with a fleet side bed side if all else fails...
All I can say is treat your rear blazer body panels with lots of love. Your going to have a rough go at replacing her!
Thanks much for the lead.
Hunt continues......

 

[57horod]

I will save you time and tell you that the location of the wheel is different between all the gm products, blazer is closest to the back, then swb truck and lwb and finally the suburban.
Height is the same.
I am planning on parting a k5 in the near future and I will look to see how clean it is and then figure the shipping if it's worth it.

Imiceman44, thanks for response. yes I am definitely interested. Even if it’s got some rot around the upper wheel arch is fine. Especially good if hasn’t been patched previously. I see you have a few builds so you know what you’d work with. I am same.
I’ll consider both sides if that good and we can work out something reasonable. How can we stay in contact? Can you see my email in my profile?