Torque wrenches are calibrated at a +/- 4%.
CK5
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Getting there a little at a time working a few hours in the evenings. One thing that fought me was the dipstick tube. I ordered one listed for a 97 Tahoe since the engine is 1996-2000 application. Couldn't quite get the mounting bolt to line up. Fell back on one of my favorite bolts for this situation, what I refer to as a body bolt.
The threaded point helps start the bolt when the holes don't quite line up. Luckily I had one in 1/4-20. A regular bolt just wanted to cross thread.
Also working on the exhaust. I mock it up in the garage, then haul it to work to weld, then repeat for the next section. This is where I'm at currently. There's enough to fire the engine at least.
I like using the flex pieces because they help absolve a lot of alignment sins.
I have a new O2 sensor but I pulled the old one out of curiosity. Can you guess which side was towards the oil burning engine?
The threaded point helps start the bolt when the holes don't quite line up. Luckily I had one in 1/4-20. A regular bolt just wanted to cross thread.
Also working on the exhaust. I mock it up in the garage, then haul it to work to weld, then repeat for the next section. This is where I'm at currently. There's enough to fire the engine at least.
I like using the flex pieces because they help absolve a lot of alignment sins.
I have a new O2 sensor but I pulled the old one out of curiosity. Can you guess which side was towards the oil burning engine?
@6872xtc it's hard to get a good picture of the plug wire routing with the huge-ass compressor in the way. Hopefully my sketch will help, but this is what I've landed on.
The compressor bracket lands between the #3 & #5 wires.
Finished up routing the exhaust; just need to setup the hangers for the mufflers.
I have a factory hanger on the driver side near the crossover pipe. Then I'll have one on each of the muffler outlets. I'm feeling like I don't really need to add one near the crossover pipe on the passenger side.
Without mufflers, the 1 hanger on the driver side holds up both sides fine. Adding a bracket on the passenger side will be tricky because the brake and fuel lines run in the frame rail on that side.
Thoughts?
Without mufflers, the 1 hanger on the driver side holds up both sides fine. Adding a bracket on the passenger side will be tricky because the brake and fuel lines run in the frame rail on that side.
Thoughts?
I would add one. Vibration and stress when hitting bumps or holes in the road does funny things. I have never like hanging that much weight on the header flange.
I have similar exhaust on the 74 and a single hanger on each muffler has been sufficient.
That was part of my reasoning for the flex pieces too. I'm hoping they will dampen some of the stress on the header flanges.
They should help alot, I used to fight with my collector gaskets until I added flex pieces, then they stayed tight and sealed
I never used any sort of flex pipe before my Jimmy. Never had many problems until it either.
You should be good.
You should be good.
So I asked my contact at Holley why the cutoff in 1974 for the Hooker headers, this is true for SBC, BBC, and LS swap headers in square bodies, this is what the product manager told him:
This explains why we can't find the difference, there really isn't one.
I myself wonder if its just for some government red tape in certain states and they don't want to deal with it on the older models.
Yeah, I would say it's definitely some red tape monkey business.
That makes sense.
Martin
Martin
Is there a way to check valve lash without going thru the entire adjustment process? Like a spot check if sorts.
I made a simple exhaust hanger bracket using a drop piece of stainless steel angle. It's not super strong but it puts some upward tension on the exhaust and it fits with the fuel and brake lines.
I had to angle it towards the middle of the truck to keep the hanger away from the parking brake cable.
I also used a piece of stainless steel angle for the muffler hangers.
The stainless we had is 316L. It was almost a bad idea to use because it was a b!tch to drill. Smoked a couple of drill bits, like as it turning red and literally smoking. Cutting fluid didn't help much even. Guess I needed better bits.
I had to angle it towards the middle of the truck to keep the hanger away from the parking brake cable.
I also used a piece of stainless steel angle for the muffler hangers.
The stainless we had is 316L. It was almost a bad idea to use because it was a b!tch to drill. Smoked a couple of drill bits, like as it turning red and literally smoking. Cutting fluid didn't help much even. Guess I needed better bits.
No rumble noises yet?
Nice to see the solutions, but get it fired up!!
Nice to see the solutions, but get it fired up!!
Drill bit smoke is not the kind f smoke we want to hear about.
I know when I drill stainless at work, you have to go real slow and apply as much pressure as you can. I just use regular bits.
Yep. Slow speed and pressure through stainless. I have given up sharpening bits. I buy them in bulk now.
