Squeaky is one of the things I was curious about.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
As an FYI, this all stemmed from the insurance company for the business wanting an inspection report done by a "qualified mechanic". I had thought the ball joints were worn, but he said the bottoms on particular are pretty bad.
I also have an axle seal leaking and getting into the rear brakes. Made me start thinking about a rear disc conversion.
But back to my original statement, found it interesting, and annoying, the insurance company required the inspection "due to the age of the vehicle". This is also running thru the business so that might be part of the reason.
I also have an axle seal leaking and getting into the rear brakes. Made me start thinking about a rear disc conversion.
But back to my original statement, found it interesting, and annoying, the insurance company required the inspection "due to the age of the vehicle". This is also running thru the business so that might be part of the reason.
I'm guessing businesses are more likely to get sued over stupid stuff so they are looking to CYA up front.
I tried to run my 03 1/2 ton through the business for insurance. They wanted it inspected due to the high mileage. And the cost was going to be more per year.
If you are thinking about the rear disc, look into the Cadillac Eldorado, they have the same 5 lug bolt pattern.As an FYI, this all stemmed from the insurance company for the business wanting an inspection report done by a "qualified mechanic". I had thought the ball joints were worn, but he said the bottoms on particular are pretty bad.
I also have an axle seal leaking and getting into the rear brakes. Made me start thinking about a rear disc conversion.
But back to my original statement, found it interesting, and annoying, the insurance company required the inspection "due to the age of the vehicle". This is also running thru the business so that might be part of the reason.
The biggest thing is making sure I keep the parking brake. I know some people have trouble setting up the caddy calipers.
The 80-84 is easier but the disc is not vented, just solid and thinner
My '70 K10 has them and it doesn't have a good amount of hold. I am used to drums that would hold a decent amount of power. The caddy calipers won't hold as much power, which decreases my trust in them considering that the E brake pedal takes more effort to hold the truck in place.
I got my kit from TSM with new rotors and calipers, and was pleased with the parts, it was just a hassle to get everything to where I was good with how everything worked. So I haven't thought twice about swapping my C10 yet, as the drum brakes do what I need with that truck, no towing with that truck, and it doesn't have large enough tires to need more braking.
I agree, I don't see any reason for changing from rear drums.
Yeah for the cost of half ton rear drum parts and ease of maintenance and use I would just keep stock drums and rebuild them. Unless you are going to do a complete newer rear axle swap and gain the park brake inside the rotor style.
I wasn't able to finish the front suspension rebuild.
The lower control arm shaft is seized to the inner sleeves of the bushings. I'm thinking my only option is the cut the shaft out and get new ones?
The lower control arm shaft is seized to the inner sleeves of the bushings. I'm thinking my only option is the cut the shaft out and get new ones?
I think these are more than he paid for the truck
They are also wrong wrong year. But I was too tired to scroll through to find the right ones.
Yeah, as cool as tubular arms would be, that's a bit over much for this truck.
Get out the flaming hacksaw and start burning some rubber. Should be able to burn the bushing out so that you can heat up the sleeve or just cut it at that point without killing the shaft.
I was thinking I could probably get it the bushings off that way but I'm getting too old for that. Haha. Plus I was thinking the shaft would be rusted and pitted once I finally had the inner sleeve off. I was able to find the shafts thru Napa. They aren't cheap, but not a total wallet buster - $80ea.
Still money ahead to by bushings and ball joint as opposed to buying an entire lower arm. Aside from the tubular arms, LMC is the only place I found selling assembled lower arms and they want $150 each. I'm not saving a lot of money, about $30, but I don't know what they're using for parts.
This is one of those projects that reminds me I wish I had money to buy all the neat tools they list in the old service manuals. They make one for doing the lower control arm bushings that even allows them to be replaced in vehicle.
Still money ahead to by bushings and ball joint as opposed to buying an entire lower arm. Aside from the tubular arms, LMC is the only place I found selling assembled lower arms and they want $150 each. I'm not saving a lot of money, about $30, but I don't know what they're using for parts.
This is one of those projects that reminds me I wish I had money to buy all the neat tools they list in the old service manuals. They make one for doing the lower control arm bushings that even allows them to be replaced in vehicle.
At this point it looks like a dropped a bomb and some shackles behind the tire would be pretty easy to do. I know of a guy who did this once...
Kidding, at times I wish I kept my truck 2wd but then I remember Moab and the friends and new memories I'm creating which was the purpose of my build.
Kidding, at times I wish I kept my truck 2wd but then I remember Moab and the friends and new memories I'm creating which was the purpose of my build.
They don't show a C10 one though. I wonder how different they are from C20 lower arms.
https://www.ecklerstrucks.com/1971-...nd-ball-joint-assembly-front-right-lower.html
https://www.ecklerstrucks.com/1971-...nd-ball-joint-assembly-front-right-lower.html
I have that tool. But if it is rusted in, the tool will not push it out without heat.
