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1973 C10 "The Purple Truck"

Basic build
@6872xtc all your questions about my homemade tool picture post in the PAD thread are about to be answered....

Been doing some weekend work on the C10. I don't remember if I mentioned before in this thread, but the business insurance company required an inspection by a certified mechanic. They found the right rear axle seal was leaking. I've had the parts for awhile so I decided it was time to get it done.

I hadn't noticed a signs of the leak on the tire or ground. This is what I found when I pulled the wheel off and then the drum:

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Everything coated in gear oil. I doubt much stopping power was coming from this side. Plus the shoes are nearly gone. Hadn't planned on replacing the shoes, but luckily they are easily found at the local parts places. Putting the new shoes on, I remember how much I hate doing drum brakes - it's been a long time since I had to do them.

To pull the axle shaft, you have to drain the differential so you can get access to pull the cross shaft. While this is a 2wd truck, this is a handy process to know if you break a rear shaft on a 1/2 ton 4x4. This C10 has a 10 bolt rear axle.

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You can see the pin/bolt that holds the cross shaft in at the top of the carrier. Took a 1/2" wrench if I remember correctly. Once the cross shaft is out, you can push the shaft in a little to get the C-clips out. You can see it falling out in the picture below:

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I decided to replace the axle bearings while I was at it. I had the original tool part numbers from the shop manual for pulling the axle bearings and re-installing them. I found used versions on ebay and picked them up. I didn't get ALL the tools. I didn't get the official slide hammer or the handle for the bearing driver because they were too expensive.

The first problem is that I didn't have an adapter to put the bearing puller on my slide hammer. So I made an adapter with a 1/2-13 bolt welded to a piece of plate to fit the 2-jaw puller adapter.

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The foot folds back to fit inside the bearing.

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Then the foot flattens out to rest against the inside of the bearing.

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Then you tighten the nut down putting the washer tight to the seal.

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Use the slide hammer to full effect and out it all comes.

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FWIW, this is what started happening to the bearing trying to use the 2-jaw puller - it started pulling the bearing cage apart.

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For the bearing driver, I used a 3/4" NC bolt with a nut to tighten the driver against. Luckily I had a nut and bolt on hand. The nut is on there so it's driving the bolt against the driver face and not just the threads.

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The "official" driver is nice because it holds the bearing perfectly.

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The other nice thing about the Kent-Moore driver is that it puts the bearing at the perfect depth for the seal.

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I also picked up the seal driver.

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However the seal driver shattered.

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I don't know if it had a pre-existing flaw, it was used after all, but it might have been because I didn't make sure the hit the end squarely.

On to the driver side. I found this when I pulled the drum off:

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When I squeeze the dust boot on the wheel cylinder, fluid spurts out. So now I need a wheel cylinder.

That's where I left it for this weekend.



Nice work on the tool adapting! Makes sucky jobs fun having the right tools for the job.


That gear oil looks like it seen some water.
 
This is a plastic driver, I don't think you are supposed to hit it with a hammer, just with a soft rubber mallet, or even just push in holding the handle
I thought so maybe too and double checked the manual. This is the picture in the manual and I used the same hammer.

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I tried to save it after the first piece broke by switching to a rubber mallet. I'm wondering if the seller might have used some sort of cleaner that affected the plastic. Or it already had a crack.
 
Harbor freight sells a decent driver kit for pressing seals and races. I originally bought it for my 911 but I’ve used it on a variety of seals including my 205 and 205 adapter yesterday.
https://www.harborfreight.com/Bearing-Race-and-Seal-Driver-Set-10-Pc-63261.html
I have one of those, maybe a different brand; and I brought it home to finish the other side. Just kinda bummed out about the other one breaking. If I get something like that in the future I will use a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer like @imiceman44 mentioned. I think I might have also hit the end of it with the edge of the hammer face and not directly on the flat which probably didn't help.

I think I've mentioned in other threads, I like collecting the OE Kent-Moore tools when I can justify it. For me it's of the fun of maintaining the old trucks and carrying on the legacy. Plus it does make some of the jobs easier, particularly that tool for pulling the axle bearing.
 
https://www.freedomracing.com/axle-pinion-oil-seal-installer-j-21128.html
Still available from several places but man those are not cheap for a plastic driver. If you had one for dimensions maybe someone could 3D print it. The Stemco or CR seals we used to use on semis have plastic drivers like that too. I know you like the old ones but if it as me I would just have someone turn something out on a lathe, maybe aluminum or brass.
 
The used one was about $35. I almost ordered something else from them, can't remember what now, but I noticed they have new versions of the Kent Moore tools.
 
The used one was about $35. I almost ordered something else from them, can't remember what now, but I noticed they have new versions of the Kent Moore tools.
Most of the seal drivers gm sends us now are metal and not the blue composite plastic stuff. I've had a couple in our shop get destroyed the same way as yours. They are no longer available that way. But I think it's a combination of the plastic getting brittle and or getting cleaned with a solvent that effects the plastic long term.
 
Looks like the shoes are scorched.

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Curious if you all would just replace the drums. They're pretty glazed and I don't have a good way to knock them down.
 
If the drums are not turned, they are just going to mess up your new shoes. So new or machine the existing.
 
I'd just get new drums. Not many parts stores turning old ones anyway.
 
I'd just get new drums. Not many parts stores turning old ones anyway.

Find a shop to re-arc the new shoes to the drums. I have not seen one of those machines in decades. Last one I did was the backs on my 78 c10 back in the mid 80s.
 
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