CK5
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1973 C10 "The Purple Truck"

Basic build
Well that ain’t good. My motor will be out before his gets installed
Hey, it's installed......

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I gave myself a bit of extra work because I tore into the wiring harness to figure out the wire that melted the gutter loom. Picture for a reminder.

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The color is a little hard to be 100% certain about, but I'm pretty sure this is the wiring I was first using for the key-on power to the PF4. Going back to the trouble I had when I first installed the PF4 with it cutting off on me, I found the key-on power wire had melted to the exhaust manifold. I'm figuring this is evidence of the wire getting hot from that and it started melting the gutter channel. At least it doesn't appear to have damaged other wiring.
 
It lives again!


I still need to put the fans in and obviously the hood, but I just needed to here it run! Whew, got that weight off my chest.

I didn't bother with the setup wizard on the PF4. Figured it's the same setup that was in it and nothing happened that would have fouled up the learn table. Didn't get the actual start because the phone was on photo and not video but it hardly cranked before firing off.
 
While the truck was parked it seems like the trans turned into a hot mess. Had to add 3qts and it left a pretty good puddle overnight. Hopefully I can take care of most of it by tightening up the trans pan bolts. Don't want to put too much effort into it if I'm going to be putting the 4l80 in it.

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Over 100 miles and so far so good. I will be happy when the first 500 are behind me. Right now every noise perks my attention to potential engine failure. :doah:

I did succumb to the torque wrench naysayers and tried to put the valve covers on by feel. Nope, they leaked. I had to pull out the inch-pound torque wrench and fix that problem.

That being said, I do have to re-torque the intake and header bolts by feel. Too many accessories, steering, master cylinders, and throttle bodies in the way to get a torque wrench on them. At least those are 3/8" bolts so I'm not worried about breaking them off.

The very first engine swap I ever did was just after bootcamp. My dad and his coworkers helped me, or rather did most of the work. One of my only tasks was installing the valve covers. I broke the head off one of the bolts. That was my first lesson in removing broken bolts. But now I'm always leering about over tightening valve cover bolts.
 
Valve cover bolts are a quarter inch ratchet with one hand on the head of the ratchet, not the handle, just like the carb flange. It's calibrated. Move your hand to the handle and all bets are off on those small bolts and weak carb flanges.

Is it running good?
 
Valve cover bolts are a quarter inch ratchet with one hand on the head of the ratchet, not the handle, just like the carb flange. It's calibrated. Move your hand to the handle and all bets are off on those small bolts and weak carb flanges.

Is it running good?
I tried the 2 fingers on the handle of a 1/4 ratchet technique. When I torqued them to 25 in-lbs, I got a lot of turns. Maybe my 2 finger game is weak but I've never had complaints.....

It is running good. It gets up and goes good enough to make me smile. I'm on the fence about extending the tailpipes to exit behind the rear tires. The main reason it gives me pause is because it's a company vehicle and I'm not sure the rowdy exhaust is quite appropriate.
 
I don't mean two fingers on the handle, I mean the socket extension comes out between your index and middle finger with the ratchet head in your palm, 1 handed. So the torque of the handle is on your palm behind your pinky.
 
I don't mean two fingers on the handle, I mean the socket extension comes out between your index and middle finger with the ratchet head in your palm, 1 handed. So the torque of the handle is on your palm behind your pinky.
Oh yeah I could get it tighter that way.
 
I really like cast aluminum valve coves on the old school sbc. You can crank em down a little more and get more even squish. I also have had good luck gluing the gasket to the valve cover, then installing them. My theory is often oil gets on top of the gasket, and creeps between it and the valve cover then weeps out. If that is glued that can't happen and the sealing surface is the bottom of the gasket to the head. Also makes it easy to remove them and re-install without needing new gaskets each time.
 
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