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1973 C10 "The Purple Truck"

Basic build
When we had the gas crisis due to the supply pipe being down, I ran a tank of 91 octane 100% gas in my dodge truck. What a difference. 17mpg compared to 14.8. But the cost offset is not worth it.
 
I tried that in the crew cab and the company truck. The crew cab did get better mileage with premium but like you the gain didn't offset the price difference. The 08 2500HD broke even in cost between 91 and 85 octane.

In regards to the C10, I question it needing 91 octane with 9.1:1 compression but I don't want to take any chances while it's still under warranty.
 
Just spit-balling here, but the 100% gas thing makes me think you are a tick lean. Not much, but the 10% ethanol in the other fuel would be like a 3-4% energy difference. Think like E85 needs 30-40% more volume of fuel to be comparable to pure gas.

Or I could be wrong.
 
Could be the fuel compensates for a little bit of discrepancy in the fuel table.
 
When I got back from Blazer Bash the PF4 was doing the stall thing even with the pure gas. It seems to be linked to air temperature, over 90°. I figure it's either the fuel pump or ECU getting too hot. I haven't been able to determine if the stall is the ecu dying or the pump. I know that once or twice when I cycled power to the PF4 the pump did not prime after the stall.

I replaced the external pump with an in tank unit. I also installed a proper sealed relay for the fuel pump.

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I'm undecided if it was better to run the fuel lines thru the factory holes in the frame or over the top of the frame like TBI tanks. I went thru the frame holes but to keep the return line from kinking it had to put a kinda loop in it. Looks a little silly but no one will be hanging out under there to see it.

I noticed the tank was rubbing the bed in a couple places.

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I didn't have any rubber but the sending unit came with an extra sleeve for the fuel pump so I cut that in half and glued it over the rub marks.

I'm going to see about moving the ecu into the cab for good measure as well. Not excited about the large firewall hole that's going to require tho.
 
I'm undecided if it was better to run the fuel lines thru the factory holes in the frame or over the top of the frame like TBI tanks. I went thru the frame holes but to keep the return line from kinking it had to put a kinda loop in it. Looks a little silly but no one will be hanging out under there to see it.
I have taken a lot of these trucks apart over the last 30 years and every single one had fuel lines run over the frame from the factory. I have never seen one run through the frame like that before.
 
I have taken a lot of these trucks apart over the last 30 years and every single one had fuel lines run over the frame from the factory. I have never seen one run through the frame like that before.
Could it be 73 only? Has grommets that seem factory.
 
Hole/grommet was for wiring only as far as I know. If I can get under my 73 I'll take a pic tonight.
 
This was how it was originally set up before I swapped tanks for the PF4 install. It didn't have a return line so the line over the top of the frame was vent and the line thru the frame was feed.

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I've had this rear "sport" bumper I picked up from @Capt Ron quite some time ago. Decided I could use the distraction and worked on the install.

Before picture:

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After:

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I had to modify the license plate panel to clear the receiver hitch. I cut about 1/2" off the bottom and notched the license plate.

Since this was kind of an impulse project, I was missing quite a few things. I didn't have any bumper bolts. The center frame brackets from the old bumper won't work with this one. I also need a filler panel behind the bumper, but I can make that with some aluminum.

Spending more time under the back of the truck revealed how bad the harness had been hacked for 2 trailer plugs. It was blowing the fuse if I pulled a trailer in the rain.

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We all know what the balls of electrical tape were hiding.

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Soooo much dirt fell out of those bundles. Picture doesn't do it much justice.

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Removed all that junk

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All that was replaced with this weather tight plug:

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I'll need to put a trailer plug in the new bumper. The one in the old bumper was half rusted away. The old bumper was pretty rusty along the bottom.

20220925_171023.jpg
 
I've had this rear "sport" bumper I picked up from @Capt Ron quite some time ago. Decided I could use the distraction and worked on the install.

Before picture:

View attachment 426760


After:

View attachment 426763

View attachment 426764

I had to modify the license plate panel to clear the receiver hitch. I cut about 1/2" off the bottom and notched the license plate.

Since this was kind of an impulse project, I was missing quite a few things. I didn't have any bumper bolts. The center frame brackets from the old bumper won't work with this one. I also need a filler panel behind the bumper, but I can make that with some aluminum.

Spending more time under the back of the truck revealed how bad the harness had been hacked for 2 trailer plugs. It was blowing the fuse if I pulled a trailer in the rain.

View attachment 426761

View attachment 426762

We all know what the balls of electrical tape were hiding.

View attachment 426766

Soooo much dirt fell out of those bundles. Picture doesn't do it much justice.

View attachment 426767

Removed all that junk

View attachment 426768

All that was replaced with this weather tight plug:

View attachment 426769

I'll need to put a trailer plug in the new bumper. The one in the old bumper was half rusted away. The old bumper was pretty rusty along the bottom.

View attachment 426765
Much better. I can drop off some bumper bolts on Tuesday if you need me to.
Looks good, that’s the bumper I wanna put on our ‘79.
I believe I have at least one more but it has the rubber impact strip.
 
I was thinking we could start a thread on CK5 dedicated to rear harness butchery by previous owners. Pretty much every truck I've bought had crap trailer plug wiring.
 
Looks great!

You think that little dent will be almost gone with a 2x4 and a small sledge hammer?
 
Looks great!

You think that little dent will be almost gone with a 2x4 and a small sledge hammer?
I was debating doing that or using an adjustable wrench with a cloth in the jaws. I vaguely remember having the same thing in the bumper on my K5 and the hammer & wood didn't work as well as I thought it would.
 
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