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1973 Start Issues

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Fall_Guy

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Hi all, my 73 K5 won't start. Here is the series of events:

I changed a fuse because my radio stopped working. There is also a power window installed in the tail gate that was not working.

After I put in the new fuse, the power window worked again. The radio did not. I also accidentally unplugged a yellow clip from the fuse box, but I'm pretty sure I put it back in the correct spot.

I went to start the car. It clicked, but it did not start.

I pulled the starter and took it to Autozone. The starter works.
I pulled the battery and took it to Autozone. They said "bad battery" with 75 percent charge.
So I bought a new battery.

I hooked up the new battery. Power window works. Headlights work. Starter will not engage. NO CLICKS now. Nothing.

I'm at a loss.

Starter is functional.
Battery is functional.

I don't know where to find the starter relay.

There are no clicks, so I wonder if it's an ignition problem.

This all began after I changed a fuse.

When I changed the fuse, the glass broke. But the new fuse fits in just fine and it allows the back window to operate, so I just don't get it.

Can anyone help?

I'd like to post a pic of the fuse box, but I don't have that privilege yet.
 
It could be coincidence, but chances are the problem is with something you've recently touched. I would suspect the following:
  • Battery cable connections not tight (battery, frame, starter motor)
  • One of the connections at the starter motor was missed (usually there are multiple small ring terminals that go on with the big battery cable)
  • The "clip" on the fuse panel was put back in the wrong place (is it just the cigarette lighter plug?)
  • Another fuse is blown or contacts bad.
After that it's time to start tracing it with a voltmeter. Keep in mind that marginal connections can let low power things like a dome light or radio work, but will not support cranking at all (everything goes dead when you turn the key to "start").

Does your fuse block look like this?

attachment.php
 
My fuse box does look like that, but the labeling looks different. I wish I could upload a photo.
That said, I have a question about the box.
On the box, next to the fuse that I replaced, it says 20A. However, when I pulled the old fuse out, the fuse said 30A. So I put a 30A fuse in there. Would that be the cause of the problem? Even so, the car would start prior to that fuse being replaced. So I'm doubting that.
 
The clip on the fuse panel that I pulled by accident connected on your photo between the spot where it says Radio and Tail Stop and just right of 15A. So yes, possibly cig lighter, but my K5 has been modified and there isn't a cig lighter anymore.
 
Ok the in cab fuse box has nothing to do with the cranking circuit.
I suspect the connection at the starter. Double check those.
There should be the main battery cable and 2 smaller wires on the main lug of the starter. Those 2 smaller wires are the fuse links, these provide battery power to the inside fuse box, ign switch, head lamps and courtesy lamps.
1 fuse link can be bad and other good so check them both. There is 1 small wire on the small start terminal on the block side of solenoid. This wire is 12 ga and should be purple.
If all that is good inspect the neutral safety switch. This is under the dash, on top of the column near the firewall. Same purple wire goes form crank signal of ign switch to neutral safety switch and then through bulk head connector in firewall to starter solenoid crank signal terminal.
 
Cig lighter and courtesy circuits are the same, and should be orange and white wires
 
Please see this video I just made that shows everything. Hopefully this can help diagnose.
 
What a rat’s nest of wiring going to your positive terminal. :haha:
Like any other repair job, its best to have the correct tool for the job. Do you have a multimeter and know how to use it?
 
You need to bolt the starter back to the block. That is your negative path for the starter circuit.
Also: change that 30 amp fuse back to a 20 amp. The wires are sized for 20 amps only.
 
Some UPDATES....

First, thank you Mechted. I installed the starter, and it now gets power!!

However, the engine will not start.

Rampage - I just bought a multimeter, but I've never used one before. It may be time.

Now that the starter motor is working, but the engine won't fire, I suspect it's an ignition problem.

I removed the air filter, climbed over the carb, and had someone step on the throttle. Gas did enter the carb.

I removed a spark plug wire, held it over the distributor, had someone hit the starter, and there was no spark.

What should I do now?

Thank you all for your help.
 
Where on the distributor are you holding it? You need to hold it close to a ground source, about the same distance as the gap in the spark plug but not touching the ground source or there will be no spark. Best just to keep it connected to the spark plug and touch the threads of the spark plug to bare metal on the engine.
 
Looks like an aftermarket hei, but there should 12v with key on at the dist cap.
 
rampage said:
Where on the distributor are you holding it? You need to hold it close to a ground source, about the same distance as the gap in the spark plug but not touching the ground source or there will be no spark. Best just to keep it connected to the spark plug and touch the threads of the spark plug to bare metal on the engine.
Click to expand...
Here is the test I did.

 
Fall_Guy said:
Here is the test I did.

Click to expand...
There is no way to get a spark to jump that far unless you have a MUCH higher voltage. That’s a good 1 1/2 from metal to metal that you’re trying to bridge. Do the test I suggested.
 
I was just about to do that test you suggested when I noticed that yellow clip was not plugged back into the fuse box. You can see the specific one in the first video at 1:52. So I plugged that back in and gave it another shot. It started! I guess that yellow clip was powering the distributor.

Thank you all for your help. I sincerely appreciate it!
 
If some hokey clip is all that keeps the truck running, I'd make sure it wasn't so hokey.
 
I completely agree. This truck needs new wiring so badly.
I want to put a new instrument cluster, gauges, and steering column in. Would you have the electrical done at the same time?
 
I'd definitely do the wiring while I had everything else out of the way. It's not fun in any case, but it's easier with the cluster and column removed.

I don't know what it is with wiring, it's not hard to do right, but for some reason making things ten times worse doing it wrong is the norm for previous owners.
 
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