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1974 Blazer Engine Removal

Chief Brody

Chief Brody

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It's kind of now or never for the engine removal since I have the transmission and transfer case out, and the drivers side fender...so technically I don't have the front clip off yet.

My reason for removing the engine is to prep and paint the firewall.

I guess I need to go ahead and remove the passenger side fender and probably the radiator core support?

Also, what about the power steering pump and hoses and the air conditioner and hoses? The manual says to remove the pump from its bracket and lay it aside...should I go ahead and remove it completely?
I think the AC hoses would have to be disconnected to move the condenser from the core? :dunno:

Need hints, tips and advice on making this go as smooth as possible and try to get as small amount of fluids spilled....and some "you should do this" is good too...
 
Well for the body work you are doing, you'll have to remove the other fender. Also removing the engine makes accessing the firewall 2000x easier. Not mention while the engine is out you can clean and paint it too. As far as the A/C, if you have a full charge in the system then unbolt the compressor and set it aside (ie. tie it to the frame). That way you won't have to disturb the A/C system which will cost some cash to have evacuated and recharged. And it'll cost even more if your system is still using R-22. If your A/C system doesn't work or doesn't have a charge in it then just disconnect the hoses and plug them to prevent dirt and moisture from entering the system.
 
If you don`t want to disturb the AC system, unbolt the comp and set it aside, with a bungy cord or some tie wraps. If you need/want to remove the core support, then you will need to dis connect the AC lines. If the system had R-12 in it you may not be able to get any to re charge it, and would be a good time to update to R-143A. Does the AC work? If it doesn`t, and you don`t want it, now would be the time to remove it all if you so desire. Taking the the other fender off is a must for the detailing, also good time to detail the engine, and then snow ball into a cam swap, timing chain, vavle seals, and an oil pump...LOL...The power steering pump should also be able to be removed form the eng and secured w/tie wraps. Draining any fluids before you start is a good idea to help prevent a mess. You also may want to take some ref pictures of the bracketry and such to aid in re-assembly.
 
I'll throw some advice in here just to screw things up a bit...

I would...
remove hood
remove fender
remove radiator for more room
leave core support and condensor and work around it
unbolt a/c compressor from engine and hold aside with bungees, not opening the a/c system
disco p/s lines at the steering box, yes some fluid will come out. This way you can leave most of the engine accessories bolted to the front of the engine and avoid the inevitable "OK, I took this apart a while ago and now I don't know where these go" thread.
 
I want to try to do this quickly...clean up the firewall prime it and then paint it

It's probably a Ryoken question, but how high on the firewall do you paint? Wheres the stopping line?

How low do you go?

I don't have a 1.2 paint gun yet and I think I know the answer, but could I or better yet should I not paint the firewall with the professional aerosol can that is filled by the paint store with the real product? With all this transmission work I can't afford to buy a real paint gun right now.

Need advice on this....Ryoken where are you?
 
Blue painters tape on every line and wire disconnected helped me a ton on reinstall and you wont be worrying about forgetting anything :waytogo: and i 2nd the taking pics for referance. The worst part of puttin mine back together was remembering how the brackets went 2 months after i took them off to blast and paint :doah:
 
I know you have a lot of work going into this truck. But I ask, how much of a resto are you doing here? Do you want it to be show quality? Or just open the hood and have the right color under there?

For show quality, you know the answer.

For just a good coating of the proper color, I'd rattle can it with the proper color mixed by whoever you mentioned earlier. Or I would do a semi gloss black in the whole engine bay. Paint it right up to where the firewall meets the wiper cowl, obviously the cowl will be painted body color.

The good thing about the firewall and engine bay in general is that there isn't too much of it exposed without disruption of some sort. It's usually covered with wires and hoses and vacuum lines and such. So, even if you get it to a mediocre status, once everything is back in place it'll look great all put back together.

These are just my thoughts on this. Don't take it as "this is what you need to do".
 
I pushed it out of the garage today, it wasn't that bad. I removed the front lower valance and the passenger side fender and door....so the only thing in front is the core.
I took me 4 hours to do this and tear down the door....I wanted to tear it down because I want to take it to get sandblasted.

I was looking over the engine...I don't see anywhere to hook a chain...most engines have a thing to hook up and pull it out...what's the story with the Blazer?
 
How does that weatherstrip come off that is on top of the firewall? I want to reuse it if I can.
 
You may have to take some brackets off, but what i do is get one bolt in the front of one of the heads (the hole is pointing towards you looking at the motor from the front) then do the same in the other side head on the backside, put a chain on and lift away:waytogo: (note put bolt through chain link first)

DSCF9761.jpg
 
Deuling said:
You may have to take some brackets off, but what i do is get one bolt in the front of one of the heads (the hole is pointing towards you looking at the motor from the front) then do the same in the other side head on the backside, put a chain on and lift away:waytogo: (note put bolt through chain link first)

DSCF9761.jpg
Click to expand...

You took your carb off...
 
Carb off and pull distributor is the best way not to smash those parts during removal and re-installation.

That's another one you either learn the hard way (can I have a show of hands?) or take the advice of someone who has learned the hard way. :D
 
BII dist to the firewall CHECK :thumb::haha: But I was more careful with this one, and left the dizzy in, i got mad skillz though..... :rolleyes: :haha:
 
it's also really depends on if the motor has a tranny still hanging off it, or by itself...front clip on the truck or removed. With no front clip and just the engine the dist can usually stay in. I remove it because it's cheap insurance IMO.
 
tRustyK5 said:
it's also really depends on if the motor has a tranny still hanging off it, or by itself...front clip on the truck or removed. With no front clip and just the engine the dist can usually stay in. I remove it because it's cheap insurance IMO.
Click to expand...

I had faith in my woman :waytogo: all i had to say was up/down and she pressed the button and i got a pry bar :D:woot:

SKYEBLINK3.jpg





Sorry Picwhore/hijack over :D
 
will the distributor only go in one way or do I need to mark something...been a long time...everything in last 28 years has been a coil pack.
 
How many motor mounts are there and which bolt(s) do you remove them with??
 
Turn the engine to #1, check that the rotor is pointing to the number one plug wire on the cap. Use your trusty felt marker to mark where the rotor should be pointing on the body of the distributor. Remove the hold down and pull it straight out.

Not having a tranny attached you could get away with just pulling the cap with wires attached, and the rotor and be just fine.
 
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