CK5
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1975 k5 expedition build

No diff additive on a locker as for gear oil, 80-90 works, synthetic or dinosaur your choice.
 
Well got the axle installed monday night after work at my buddies house. having some issues bleeding the brakes. Found one copper washer leaking on passenger side. Have no pedal at all. Also found out the bilsteins i bought might be too long. I bought the 4 inch lift shocks but they are the same as the old 6 inch shocks I blew out. Im hoping that maybe with the bigger axle and maybe lower mounts they might still fit. Getting ready to head back over to try to fix the brakes. Going to pull the tcase as well and reseal it and install new input shaft seal, drain and fill nv4500 with new amsoil gear lube. Getting excited to drive it with new gears.
 
Didnt get everything i wanted done today. Did pull the tcase replace input seal, drain and fill tranny, replaced bad tranny mount with poly mount, got the axle shafts installed, drive shaft reinstalled, and filled axle with lube. Upon installing axle shaft on passenger side i found one bolt hole completely stripped and a couple others that felt like they were going to strip as I was tightening them up. May need to hunt down another hub for it.
Also still having issues bleeding brakes. My friend was busy so I was trying to use a vacuum pump to bleed and wasn't getting any where. Hopefully tomorrow we can get that straightened out.
 
When we bleed the brakes we use a combination of vaccum and pumping them. This works really well but uses lots of fluid. Basically you put vaccum on the bleeder, have someone pump the pedal and open the bleeder and watch the air fly out of there, id say if done properly this only takes 20 mins on a dry line.. Per axle.
 
Yes we tried gravity bleeding until fluid came out. Then we tried the vacuum bleed with no success. Tried old fashion pump the pedal crack the bleeder and my buddy noticed a leak where the line bolts to the caliper. We pulled the line scuffed the caliper to clean the paint off and reattached the line with new washers. Since then I have no pedal. Im thinking we just introduced a bunch of air in the system.
 
Late to the party because I'm like that.

Try checking each line and joint that you have touched to make sure everything is tight. Then I would gravity bleed one corner at a time
 
All lines are tight ive tripple checked. The plan is to gravity bleed all 4 corners and see where we end up. I just want to drive it again lol.
 
It's not terribly uncommon to lose the master cylinder on these change overs. See it 2 or 3 times a year on here.

Give it a go, see what happens with gravity bleed. I've had best luck, just takes time.
 
Well good news and bad news. Got the rear brakes to bleed finally. Pushed that pin on the prop valve and got pressure to the rears. Bad news is theres either still air in the system, or I need master or prop valve or both. With the engine off the brakes feel great, but when I start the engine I lose half the pedal. It stops ok just normal driving but no emergency stopping at all. That said I did drive it around a bit to see how the rear end was working and that all seems good.
I did notice now that I'm able to drive in 5th gear on the freeway that I have a horrible noise coming from the nv4500 in 5th gear. I'm assuming its the notorious 5 gear nut thats backed off. Sucks because I just had the tcase pulled to reseal it.
When I was driving around I stopped at a friends house and we went out to this field down the road to see how the locker worked. My truck stalled on a hill while seeing how well low low range worked and it wouldnt start. Thought maybe I was out of fuel so he towed me back to his house where we put a couple gallons in the tank and it still wouldn't fire. Popped the air cleaner off noticed no fuel from the injectors. I'm guessing my ignition control module crapped out again but I just put a new one in last month. This is the 3rd time it's failed in 2 years. Is there any reason that I would be running through these things?
In other news I am getting tired of this tbi motor and the issues I've been having. It runs strong for a 250k mile engine, but with electrical issues arise oil consumption goes on and I'm fairly certain I may have a head gasket leaking I've beeen thinking about what I want to do with it later down the road. My choices are another small block tbi worked over for more power, vortec heads roller valve train, ect. Or a 6.0 lsx engine also worked over. Lastly a 6.5 turbo diesel. Basically I'm looking for reliability fuel mileage and decent power. I've been looking at the diesel a lot lately because I like the simplicity of no electronics, higher fuel milage and being able to use multiple fuel sources.
 
I had the same issues with my TBI.. i fought it and fought it.. replaced the distributor even... then the tach went all wonky. I replaced the coil and rerouted the wires so the plug wire couldnt touch the coil power and feed wires.. thing hasnt been this solid since forever..(jinxing myself as we speak) but I havent touched it in a while. No power house but it starts everytime all the time now.
 
p.s. go diesel.. Ive been driving around on the same tank for like 2 weeks now.. just putzing around town here and there.. its only used 1/8th tank so far.
 
Well I think I'm going to rebuild the ignition system on this thing. Distributor coil plugs wires ect. Also I've read that not having a good ground could cause some issues with ignition control modules going bad so i'm going to redo all the power and ground wires as well. What components are good for the tbi systems? Was looking at going all MSD.
Also I noticed the other day that my tbi is really wet around the injectors and the pod. Was thinking it would be a good time to do the ultimate tbi mods while I'm doing the distributor and stuff.
On another note I happened to have a complete vortec 5.7 fall into my hands was thinking about taking the parts I need for a swap off the engine and scrapping the block. Outside of the heads what other parts would I need to pull off the engine.
 
I've never been through the aftermarket tbi ignition parts, curious what you come up with

As for Vortec stuff I'm no help. My TBI parts are adapted to a GM crate 4v intake and 327 heads
:dunno:
 
They use to be awesome. I'm only here to harvest your research
:)
 
im worried about spending 500 on a msd dizzy and it failing. i have an msd coil on my work truck no issues and over 50k. might just get a summit replacement dizzy and msd coil and wires
 
Ok been a while and a lot of bs with this truck. Replaced cap rotor coil and ignition control module with msd components. Still having issues with it dying and not starting back up. My buddy has a very slightly used painless tbi harness he sold me for 50 bucks. As I'm thinking it's more of an issue with the factory wiring I kinda hacked together I went for it.
So we get the harness hooked up kinda zip tie everything up out of the way to do a test drive. Go around the block and truck starts cutting out and I smell electrical smoke. Pulled over popped hood and found the alt excite wire was grounded out on the header. Get back and found it's melted all the way back to the fuse block. This bummed me out bad cuz I just installed the ez wiring less than a year ago.
Flash forward to today. I've since bought a new harness since I couldn't repair the damage. Getting ready to re rewire this turd. Looking to upgrade my power and ground and starting wiring. Thinking 1/0 every where and remote starter solenoid. Do you guys have any reccomendations on what upgrades I should do while I'm doing this again?
 
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