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1975 K5 One ton part duex

1975 K5 + 1989 3500 C&C + 6.0
I looked at your thread (Thank you for posting) but cant figure out why if you axle is pushed forward 3" you are hitting the oil pan...I am forward 1" and think I might clear, although I am worried as the axle swings back as it goes up. I am toying with the idea of using a zero rate to go forward another inch to make sure...

To be open, I am a little annoyed at ORD as well as myself. When I called them up to order springs the dude said, hey you should move the axle forward an inch while you are at it and I said sure. He did not ask if I ran high steer and I did not think to mention it. Oh well...at least Ive got something to do and after all it is only money, time and more money
 
I have my axle 1 inch forward with just standard crossover steering and I don't have any clearance issues. Only running a 4" lift also.
 
I looked at your thread (Thank you for posting) but cant figure out why if you axle is pushed forward 3" you are hitting the oil pan...I am forward 1" and think I might clear, although I am worried as the axle swings back as it goes up. I am toying with the idea of using a zero rate to go forward another inch to make sure...

To be open, I am a little annoyed at ORD as well as myself. When I called them up to order springs the dude said, hey you should move the axle forward an inch while you are at it and I said sure. He did not ask if I ran high steer and I did not think to mention it. Oh well...at least Ive got something to do and after all it is only money, time and more money

It's a factory K30 pan but it's pretty big and the belly is pretty long compared to an sbc or even an aftermarket bbc pan I used to have. Also, my 52's are 2" lift plus a Zero Rate so there's more arch than a typical 52 and it's raised up too.

I really think those WFO arms are just for non leaf spring applications.
 
It's a factory K30 pan but it's pretty big and the belly is pretty long compared to an sbc or even an aftermarket bbc pan I used to have. Also, my 52's are 2" lift plus a Zero Rate so there's more arch than a typical 52 and it's raised up too.

I really think those WFO arms are just for non leaf spring applications.
You might be right...but I really want to make the high steer work so will keep messing with them. Ill mock them up and see where I end up, might use misaligned TRE's to move the Tie rod forward an inch...never dull:)
 
Yeah, I can get the crossover to work fine, but I want to get the tie rod out of the way, especially before I mount the hydro ram...no need to lead with anything that will break and I seem to find rocks
 
I also tried keeping the tie rod in front of the spring pads and running a shorter pitman arm, but I have interference with the tie rod and u bolts, partly because it is a ruffstuff tie rod which has a larger OD than the ORD one
 
I also tried keeping the tie rod in front of the spring pads and running a shorter pitman arm, but I have interference with the tie rod and u bolts, partly because it is a ruffstuff tie rod which has a larger OD than the ORD one

I also fought interference with the pass u-bolt and plate. I ground a relief in the thick tie rod and swapped on a short locking nut to fix that, now it touches right at the steering stop so that's fine.
 
Ok, I spent a bunch of time on the phone with Trevor at WFO and it comes down to this. I can make these arms work and run high steer, but it's going to be some work. Need to move the shocks, which isn't the end of the world but I'll need to make some mounts that snake around the steering shaft. Need to move the axle forward at least another inch and then see if I can clear the oil pan because as the axle comes up it moves back. If that doesn't work I may need to notch the oil pan. Of course if I move the axle too far forward, there is more trimming, which is no big deal.

I might just run crossover until I get my LS build and then see where I'm at....nothing is ever easy, but that's why it's fun;)

Built not bought
 
Truck is running and moving but there are no brakes worth talking about so i decided to convert to hydroboost since I have the parts...since I’ll be swapping the pedals I decided to just do the whole thing now.

6.0 in process...I’ll clean it up, replace the timing chain, new high pressure oil pump, cam, springs, and new sensors

I’m a little worried that I won’t get enough pressure from the stock pump for steering, brakes and the hydro ram. More reading needed...

1638058941345.jpeg
 
I’ll swap out the cross member when I pull the engine to make more room for the drag link too...
 

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