CK5
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1977 Chevy C10 shortbed resurection/restomod/ratrod

For as long as this truck sat before I picked it up, I was expecting more sludge. Definitely glad it was clean. If the new intake and carb fix the issues, then the 350 TPI motor build can go in the K5 and get that on the road faster.
 
Spent some time getting the motor back together today starting with replacing the wiring harness. I found the small stud on the starter solenoid had stripped threads replacing the harness so I had to grab a spare starter too.

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Installing the aluminum intake and valve covers.

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Then a rebuilt carb. I also need to remake the fuel line from the pump to the carb.

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I made a new fuel line and installed a new battery cable along with my spare starter.

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I found what looked like spider web cracks from the block freezing but it wiped off after spraying with brakeen.

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It now runs much better than before when I went on the test drive and I had a lovely helper chasing tools.

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I've had some anxious moments after seeing similar "spider cracks" on engines in my many vehicles too!..
I heaved a sigh of relief after they wiped away with a rag!..

I always cringe when I go to remove spark plugs from a "new to me" vehicle or engine too--never know when you may run into one that is seized tight,or someone has stripped the threads in the head,or attempted to install a heli-coil..
 
Oh, and the starter solenoid seems to stick when warm... tapping it with a hammer gets it going but I picked up another starter to fix it.
 
It may be heat soaking,I had a small block with headers that would sometimes not crank after it was warmed up and had been shut off a few minutes--nothing,not even a click...after it cooled off awhile it would crank again normally and fire right up..seen stock manifolds cause it too,mostly in hot weather..

I painted the starter with aluminum paint and it only did that a few times on really hot days after a highway run and stopping for a burger or to get fuel after that..
 
My buddy had an old wore out 350 he swapped into a cutlass supreme in high school and that thing had such crappy valves and seals it would oil foul a few plugs every oil change. He carried spares with and the tools to swap them. Finally built a 383 for it.
 
Might be a lot of carbon coming loose after sitting so long ?..or a few valve stem seals might be "missing",if it was oil fouled..
 
I had a 350 that fouled the rearmost plugs fairly rapidly..
One day I decided to replace leaky valve cover gaskets and found the oil return holes were blocked up with sludge and foil seals from plastic oil bottles--lots of them!..after I fished those out and opened the drain holes up the plugs took much longer to foul..

I also found the intake gaskets were sucking oil in from the lifter valley a bit,when I swapped a 4 bbl intake on in place of the 2 bbl.

Yours just might be tired though and ready for a rebuild...but I have run small blocks that guzzled oil @ 500 miles a quart or less and sometimes fouled a plug for years,before I found a better engine to swap in..long as they don't knock ,and you don't run one with a dead cylinder too long,they'll last a long time still..
 
I just replaced the intake gaskets, intake, valve cover gaskets, valve covers, and spark plugs. I did not find any obvious issues with it opened up. I may get lucky and find it was an intake gasket or EGR that was stuck open. Then I can use the new motor on one of the other projects.
 
I took off the canopy, got tired of not being able to see out.

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This week I also found a better horn button.

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And I've noticed the engine leaking oil from the valve covers and had to tighten them up again. It is also starting to burn more oil. The new motor is in line to be bored .030" over, then assembly can start.

I also ordered a few parts for the front suspension rebuild and a used set of mirrors. I'll need to track down the mounting hardware next.

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