Nicely done!
CK5
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- Joined
- Mar 3, 2000
- Posts
- 9,123
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- 7,076
Welcome, very well done!
Back at it! Finally set aside a weekend for rust repair and installing some goodies. Went ahead and pulled the entire interior out. Never re-installing most of the trim pieces after the last job saved some time.
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Gave her a good scrub. She's pretty crusty but not too bad all considered.
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Not much left of the support in these spots. I didn't weld fresh metal into the support since It felt like there was enough rigidity left to just patch the holes in the bed and move on. Amateur hour lasts all day at my place!
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Got some rust reformer sprayed on, cut the patches to fit, and took a break for some real fun...
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Oh yeah, the real fun. Picked this beauty up off the old FB Marketplace. I've been dreaming of adding a swing-out tire carrier since I bought the rig.
The powder coat was in decent shape but I gave it a decent scuff and quick coat of Rustoleum satin black to freshen it up for now. Plan is to get the powder coat re-done professionally sometime in the future when it's needed.
The bumper/tire carrier is custom and came off a later model year K5 but ended up being almost a perfect fit. 2 of the holes on the bumper mounting surface matched up perfectly and I drilled an extra hole on both sides of the frame mounting surface to get an extra bolt in there. Had to add the cover and Trasharoo!
The powder coat was in decent shape but I gave it a decent scuff and quick coat of Rustoleum satin black to freshen it up for now. Plan is to get the powder coat re-done professionally sometime in the future when it's needed.
The bumper/tire carrier is custom and came off a later model year K5 but ended up being almost a perfect fit. 2 of the holes on the bumper mounting surface matched up perfectly and I drilled an extra hole on both sides of the frame mounting surface to get an extra bolt in there. Had to add the cover and Trasharoo!
Got the patches welded in somewhere between starting and finishing the tire carrier install. I still can't seem to remember to measure twice and cut once...
The big reason for finally getting the tub all patched up: Dynamat. There's only so much you can do to cut down on sound in a 50 year old K5 with a soft top but after some research, I figured it could only help. I'm looking forward to hearing tunes through the factory dash speaker and carrying on a conversation with my wife anywhere above 15 mph.
These couple of scraps were all that was left from the 72 sq ft pack.
Picked up the 28 sq ft pack to do the bed sides. Was left with about 3 sheets that'll end up in or on the doors.
These couple of scraps were all that was left from the 72 sq ft pack.
Picked up the 28 sq ft pack to do the bed sides. Was left with about 3 sheets that'll end up in or on the doors.
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I would recommend using paint after sandblasting. Powder is not good in this type of application, or for outdoor corrosion protection, and will rust under the coating until it peels off.
Great tip, thank you. I just assumed powder coat was the way to go. Any recommendations on brand/paint type?
Look up @ryoken posts for a paint guide here on CK5.
But my information comes from NASA beach tests, salt water spray environment being one of the most corrosive places on earth.
The best option is galvanizing with no top coat. Not visually appealing though.
Second best option is inorganic zinc primer with no top coat. Green color, still not visually appealing to many.
Third best is inorganic zinc primer with compatible top coat. Pick any color you want, almost.
Second to last is powder coat steel.
Last place is black oxide coating on steel fasteners.
missed it.. what are we coating here? raw steel? the standard automotive approach these days is epoxy with a 2k and topcoat.. or even a good uro over the epoxy.. most manny's have a decent economy line out, dupont, ppg, glasurit, etc, etc... well ok, there is no economical line with Glasurt $$$$$, but top O line... these days i run a ton of the Dupont Nason stuff.. damn good quality for the $$ IMO...
I was the huge zinc chromate guy around here for a long time, but the EPA has made that a lot more difficult these days, thus the epoxy recommendation....
as most here will attest to, I'm pretty ridiculous about proper prep... proper grit prep and cleaning between coating products is critical IMO for a long lasting finish......
I was the huge zinc chromate guy around here for a long time, but the EPA has made that a lot more difficult these days, thus the epoxy recommendation....
as most here will attest to, I'm pretty ridiculous about proper prep... proper grit prep and cleaning between coating products is critical IMO for a long lasting finish......
This would be coating for the swing-out tire carrier/bumper and the ORD low profile winch bumper I'm planning to get on order soon. How has the Dupont Nason stuff held up to the elements in your experience related to sun fading, etc.? I'd also expect these to take a fair amount of abuse on the trail. Considered RAPTOR coating both bumpers too but I don't have any experience with it, just like the idea that you can thin it out so it doesn't have a super textured look.
Nasons pretty darn tough to elements, tho certain colors will sun fade over time.. which is normal... if you put clear over them, it alleviates that issue...
Raptor is good stuff ( Mutts dizzle tank is Raptor'd.... ) but I'm a BIG proponent of epoxy over the steel, than sand it for the Raptor.. not just straight Raptor...
Two great options here, appreciate the tips!
Quick and dirty install of some fresh insulation today for a little more sound deadening but mostly to cut down on heat in the cab from the engine/trans/exhaust. Ended up using the 4' x 6' multi-purpose insulation rolls from LMC, probably not the best stuff on the market but I'm sure it'll make a difference. 4 rolls is plenty to cover the floor and cab roof, fingers crossed the headliner will fit right with the extra layer in there.
Velcro in a couple spots of each section to help maintain the shape and keep it from sliding around under the carpet.
Velcro in a couple spots of each section to help maintain the shape and keep it from sliding around under the carpet.
Made a trip down south today and came home with some neat stuff. Big thanks to @Capt Ron for hooking me up with this sweet pickup tailgate! Also managed to get my hands on this 454. Got a long way to go coming up with a plan for it, but the deal was too good to pass up. I guess the universe just has a way of letting you know that it's time for a big block swap.
I'll comb through The Engine Bay and find out where to even start with this motor. The block casting number has it as a '72-'78 2-bolt 454 and head casting numbers have them as '66-'67 396/427's. Classic "ran when pulled" scenario but the seller told me that it hasn't fired for at least several years. I don't trust it enough to drop it straight in so more than likely I'll leave it to a professional for an overhaul before installation. I'll stumble my way through some bodywork and pretty much every other task but I'm out of my depth when it comes to engine building.
Any glaring flaws in my logic or considerations related to the build? End-goal is a reliable as possible, moderately built camping/adventure rig until things inevitably get out of hand.
I'll comb through The Engine Bay and find out where to even start with this motor. The block casting number has it as a '72-'78 2-bolt 454 and head casting numbers have them as '66-'67 396/427's. Classic "ran when pulled" scenario but the seller told me that it hasn't fired for at least several years. I don't trust it enough to drop it straight in so more than likely I'll leave it to a professional for an overhaul before installation. I'll stumble my way through some bodywork and pretty much every other task but I'm out of my depth when it comes to engine building.
Any glaring flaws in my logic or considerations related to the build? End-goal is a reliable as possible, moderately built camping/adventure rig until things inevitably get out of hand.
Looks really clean inside. I'd be tempted to drop that in.
Roll the crank around 720° while watching all the rockers, and smoothness.
Maybe look at a main bearing or 2 and couple of rod bearings. Seal it up with new good gaskets and go
Roll the crank around 720° while watching all the rockers, and smoothness.
Maybe look at a main bearing or 2 and couple of rod bearings. Seal it up with new good gaskets and go
Borescoped the cylinders today but the crank bolt is missing so didn't get to try and turn it over. Gunk and scoring on top of the pistons but the cylinder walls look pretty good on the whole. #3 is almost pristine which seems strange compared to the others. The leaf in #2 scared me for a second.
Cylinder 1
Cylinder 3
Cylinder 5
Cylinder 7
Cylinder 2
Cylinder 4
Cylinder 6
Cylinder 8
Cylinder 1
Cylinder 3
Cylinder 5
Cylinder 7
Cylinder 2
Cylinder 4
Cylinder 6
Cylinder 8
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