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1978 K5 Tribute Restomod (402BBC EFI, 205, 3/4 Ton)

1986 K5 to 1978 K5 Tribute
It’s been over 2 years since getting started so forgive me while I wade through pictures and try to remember the order of operations.

As I mentioned, the plan was to use a big block for good off the line torque and to play off the “2500” theme with the 8 lug axles. You may ask why I didn’t just run the 383 that the PO had built. It was mainly because it’s hard to trust the build quality and understand the reliability. There were a few “signs” that it just wasn’t quite up to the level I was planning for.

I also had a basically free 402 and that seemed cool. Could even use the little 400 grill emblem.

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There was a bit of sludge beneath the heads but nothing major. It was a 1971 motor I think and had never been apart.

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The cylinder bores looked pretty good though once I had it fully stripped.

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This was the 383 that I got with the purchase of the K5. I sold it to offset the cost of the 402 build so the K5 cost about $1000.

Looking back 2 years later, this may have not been the best approach. Could’ve bought a nicer body and cared less about axles but I’m not mad about the way it worked out.

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I have a good friend in North Carolina that runs a pretty awesome engine shop. It’s actually where I got the 402. Originally the plan was for him to clean the block and inspect it, help me decide on components and then I was going to assemble it. But I was so busy with work and family I decided I’d have him put it together and it would give me some peace of mind since the end product wasn’t going to be mine to tinker on. I have a few other big engine projects that will happen after this one which will be mine so I can do those. Here are some pics of the components, heads and block when I took them home. Only let them sit about a month or so until I took them back lol. Luckily his shop is only 10 min away from where the K5 was being worked on.

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Some specs for the parts. Original crank, pistons, oil pan and cast iron heads. Everything else is new: bearings, valvetrain, all ARP fasteners, timing gears and chain, seals and gaskets, etc . Also converted to a roller

Cylinder Heads: 3993820: ’71 oval port, open chamber, 2.19- and 1.88-inch valves

Camshaft - CompCams 11-445-8

Retro Roller Lifters - CompCams

I have all the details somewhere on a hard copy file if anyone is interested.

To note: Looking back I would’ve skipped the free 402 and just picked up a decent 454 block for a few hundred and built that instead. No replacement for displacement.

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Around the same time I was on this forum a lot and got into discussion with @folkenheath about EFI. He was a great resource and so I went with him for the intake with his Volcano upgrade, distributor and a Sniper TerminatorX. Some shots of the fully assembled motor and a video of it running on the test stand. Also did the Holley serpentine kit.

None of this was really budget or my usual DIY/resourceful approach but I was hoping that it would be reliable and last a really long time.

(Edit: the distributor and carb shown in the pics and video were for test purposes)

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I found some 78 high back seats on marketplace. The rear seat was about an hour away so that was easy. Unfortunately he had just sold the fronts. Found a set of fronts in Kentucky and after a few months of trying to coordinate, a friend of mine was going through there and got them. I think I drove like 6 hours round trip to get them, but that was better than 14. I had them recovered by an upholstery friend. We added a few touches since embossing the original details wasn’t an easy options. I hadn’t reattached the armrests in the finished pics.

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Hadn’t really planned for the seats to happen then but since they popped up for a good price I went ahead and did it. The other 78 high backs I’ve seen either are really torn up or I have to buy a parts vehicle to get them.

Anyway, the next step was getting the body off the frame. I wanted it blasted so we could see the PO body work repairs and make a call on next steps. He had done a rocker and the rear quarters.

Separating the cab from the body by myself was slow but never really got too worried. I did sketchier things working in a manufacturing plant for 12 years.

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Put the rolling chassis in the garage and got the body mounted to a rotisserie. There’s a guy nearby that has a dustless blasting setup and so I took it to him. After cleaning that up we sprayed it with epoxy primer and based on the recommendation of my engine builder friend I took it to a shop for some body work. I’m really jealous of some of the skills many of you guys have when it comes to welding and body repair. I can build you a house, or a furniture grade bar or wrench all day but I haven’t learned those metal working skills quite yet. I keep telling myself that’s my next personal education goal.

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I mentioned I worked in manufacturing. I still kind of do, but I was at a textile plant making nylon and polyester for 12 years as a project engineer. We modified and installed a lot of machinery and added new spaces throughout the plant. It was fun, but they started pushing me to new business development and so I travelled a lot. That was fun too, but then covid stopped travel for like a year or two and my wife and I had our first son. So I got my license and started a design build contracting company doing commercial and residential so I could be home everyday with the kid. Now we have two boys, 3 and 1, almost 4 and 2. We live in an apartment in Charlotte while I’m building our house not far away. The vehicle projects are in Stanly County about an hour away, so the build is a mix of me doing breakdown and assembly while subcontracting out some of the big things, engine build, body repair etc since time is limited. It’s also a build for a friend so I want to get things done for him. I have a tendency to put my personal projects on the back burner a lot. I do enjoy getting my hands dirty and building things though. I couldn’t sit at a desk all day

Master bedroom we did recently

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A solid cedar deck and backyard project from last year.

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A basement bar I built for a buddy. His bourbon collection cost more than the bar!

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Currently the body is in the shop. The rear quarters were a mess so I let them replace them. The one repaired rocker wasn’t too bad so one more rocker and then some little touchups in the back and it will be ready to put back on the frame.

You may notice the top is different. I wanted the solid glass so I bought a top with solid glass since it’s so hard to find and sold the top with the sliding glass. It was a wash so I was good with that.

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This was a few weeks ago and it was finally in the shop area. I didn’t push him but I did think it would’ve gone through faster. Cool guy though with an awesome shop. They really focus on fabricating full chassis. I just saw him at the C10 revival last weekend and we chatted for a bit. As far as value for him, it’s pretty far down the list but I think it’ll be done by December. It’s fine because the rolling chassis should be ready by then.
 
Speaking of the frame, I ordered a lot of things from ORD.

Crossover steering components, steering knuckles, springs all around, shocks, engine cross member and motor mounts, front spring hangers because the core support mounts were really messed up.

The axles that came on the truck were a 14bff in the rear and a Dana 44 8 lug in the front. I was kind of ignorant those existed when I started this, but after finding out I’m ok with it.

After a lot of reading on here about disc brake conversions and parking brake issues with El Dorado calipers I ended up finding an AAM 10.5 from a 08 2500 Silverado. It supposedly has 4.56 gears which I was kind of leaning towards, but I haven’t opened it up yet. I’m going to relocate the spring perches and replace the seals and bearings so I’ll find out then. It should be close to a wash selling the 14b on the truck currently. I am going to have to get larger u-bolts for the rear since ORD sent ones to fit the 14 bolt. I haven’t called to see if they’ll exchange them. If not maybe someone here would be interested.

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The diff cover is from the other axle the seller put on his truck. He said this one had a nice aluminum cover on it so he swapped it over. We’ll see. Seemed like a pretty forthcoming guy from our convo.
 
The calipers are somewhere, but honestly, I’ll probably get new rotors and calipers. They were pretty beat up and brakes aren’t a place I care to skimp.

Currently, the frame is getting cleaned up and prepped to start bolting on the ORD components. Gonna go through both axles with replacement kits. My goal is to use USA made bearings so any suggestions on where to get those would be appreciated. I read on here it can be a crapshoot even with Timken.

We welded up a lot of the holes on the frame and will do a sand, smooth and paint on it before assembly. The AAM axles needs the perches relocated and once the power train is in I’ll have driveshafts made up. There’s a good local shop here but I know a lot of folks here like Tom Woods and High Angle Driveline. I’ll shop around but I think the main questions I have are around yokes and flanges etc.

I have an NP205 and am wondering if a SYE kit is a good idea. After that is whether I should do 1350 or 1410 or insert other options?

Anyone need a 700r4 and NP203???

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That is a 11.5” AAM not a 10.5”. Unless the gears have been changed in it, it will probably have 3.73 gears.
 
That is a 11.5” AAM not a 10.5”. Unless the gears have been changed in it, it will probably have 3.73 gears.
Thanks for the info @rksjd8420. He said they were changed and he wanted to go to 3.73 so that’s why he swapped them. Then he said he wished he’d gone 4.11 so who knows? I’ll have it opened up in a few weeks and get it sorted out. I’ll do some research on the AAM differences before I get any parts.
 
That catches the build up to the present.

I have an NP205 that I need to refresh. I had a 4L80e 2wd trans that I took to a guy to go through. Unfortunately he was an older guy and he passed away. It was a friend of a friend situation and I didn’t have his number or address and so I think that transmission is lost in the ether.

So my plan was to use an adapter and two years ago I had done a lot of research most of which I have forgotten.

Lately I’ve seen a few builds that had issues with the VSS location and tone rings etc. It may only be an issue with a doubler/magnum which I won’t be using.

Any suggestions on which 4L80e I should be looking for?

70’s era 396/402 and 32 spline input NP205

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