1978 K5 Tribute Restomod (402BBC EFI, 205, 3/4 Ton)

[Wes Harden]

I believe the 2wd is the desirable 1 for the vss. Here is a chart I stole from somewhere awhile back.


I understand there might be clearance issues with the adapter to trans and also the cross member, using the th400 adapters.

 

[rksjd8420]

Since you have a racetrack or figure 8 pattern 32 spline 205, use this adapter with your factory one and get a 2001 or newer 2wd 4L80E. They have really long splines that can be cut to the length that you need.

GM 4L80E to TH400 NP205 Adapter/Spacer Kit

This is our 4L80E to TH400 Pilot Adapter/Spacer Kit. CNC Machined in House from 6061-T6 Billet Aluminum. This adapter is used when replacing a TH400 with a 4L80E. 1979-1984 TH400 to Fig.8 NP205 will require a 2wd 4L80E. (Short 2wd 6-1/4" Stick-out requires the Output Shaft to be trimmed 1-1/8")...

northwestfab.com

 

[vdamirth]

I believe the 2wd is the desirable 1 for the vss. Here is a chart I stole from somewhere awhile back.

View attachment 489588
I understand there might be clearance issues with the adapter to trans and also the cross member, using the th400 adapters.

@Wes Harden, thanks for posting that image here. I saw that in the past and was one of the reasons I chose a 2wd trans in the past. I just couldn’t locate it.

I do plan to fab a new tubular crossmember to “match” the ORD engine cradle. The K5 frame is pretty flimsy and I feel additional cross support will provide more strength than say boxing the frame.

 

[vdamirth]

Since you have a racetrack or figure 8 pattern 32 spline 205, use this adapter with your factory one and get a 2001 or newer 2wd 4L80E. They have really long splines that can be cut to the length that you need.

GM 4L80E to TH400 NP205 Adapter/Spacer Kit

This is our 4L80E to TH400 Pilot Adapter/Spacer Kit. CNC Machined in House from 6061-T6 Billet Aluminum. This adapter is used when replacing a TH400 with a 4L80E. 1979-1984 TH400 to Fig.8 NP205 will require a 2wd 4L80E. (Short 2wd 6-1/4" Stick-out requires the Output Shaft to be trimmed 1-1/8")...

northwestfab.com

@rksjd8420 thank you for the information! I seem to recall reading I could machine the tail shaft housing to mate to the 205 mount but this is probably the better option.

 

[rksjd8420]

You can machine the adapter but then the transmission pan hits the adapter. The spacer ring solves both problems.

 

[warrpath4x4]

I have a hard time trusting people who say they have a 383 stroker, I bought a truck with a "383 stroker with papers" after tearing the engine down later on to inspect and regasket it was just a 350 with nothing done to it. The "paperwork" was for a different engine. people suck

 

[vdamirth]

I have a hard time trusting people who say they have a 383 stroker, I bought a truck with a "383 stroker with papers" after tearing the engine down later on to inspect and regasket it was just a 350 with nothing done to it. The "paperwork" was for a different engine. people suck

I totally get that and even with a parts list and a little verification I just wanted to start with something fresh that was built with confidence. Thing did run well on the stand though and the guy that bought it put it in his C10 and seems to be enjoying it. Everybody’s happy this time around.

 

[Wes Harden]

I have a hard time trusting people who say they have a 383 stroker, I bought a truck with a "383 stroker with papers" after tearing the engine down later on to inspect and regasket it was just a 350 with nothing done to it. The "paperwork" was for a different engine. people suck

This happened to me. My dune buggy came with 1915 vw motor. I wanted to update the heads. I ordered some CB Panchito 044s for 94mm barrel. Get the engine out remove all the tin pop a cylinder head. Test fit the new head, it doesn't sit right, barrel seems small. measure cylinder bore is 90.5mm so engine is 1776. Same thing engine builder paper work clearly says 94mm barrel and pistons.

 

[vdamirth]

@rksjd8420 this is why I started a build thread so I could get expert advice and keep track of everything in one place.

Was going back through marketplace to figure out the year of the trans and found this convo with the seller of the trans/tcase

 

[vdamirth]

Got all the extra holes in the frame welded up. Made little pieces on my buddy’s plasma table for the larger ones. Need to grind a little more on the outside and inside. I’ll do a primer on the frame (probably epoxy?) and then do a little high build and skim coat, sand it and paint it a satin black. Something easy to touch up since there will be modifications to the frame throughout the build.

@ryoken i feel like you’re the paint guru. If you see this, do you have any suggestions on steps or products to use? (I read through both of your novels K5 and Mutt. Pretty awesome man)

 

[vdamirth]

Just a note, all of the suspension components are coming off.

I have new front spring hangers because the stock ones are hacked up from a PO.

Replacement Front HD Main Eye 47" Spring Hangers for 1981-1987('91) GM 4WD Trucks, Pair

Damaged or tired main eye hangers? Check out our HD replacements!

www.offroaddesign.com

The steering box plate was welded in by a PO.

Will be installing the ORD engine crossmember and making crossmembers for the trans/t case and that rearmost one

 

[ryoken]

is this being stripped? raw steel is epoxy these days... if you are going over mostly paint, etch prime the raw, and 2k the whole thing... i usually run Dupont's economy Nason line for most stuff these days.. tho I've been known to Imron on occasion...

 

[vdamirth]

is this being stripped? raw steel is epoxy these days... if you are going over mostly paint, etch prime the raw, and 2k the whole thing... i usually run Dupont's economy Nason line for most stuff these days.. tho I've been known to Imron on occasion...

@ryoken thanks for the quick reply!

I’m not sure if I’ll strip it all the way down. Ideally I would like to since that’s what I did for the body. In that case, yeah, epoxy is the way to go. Do I need to be concerned about removing the hangers and body mounts that are riveted that I was going to retain?

The PO had done some type of paint. Maybe POR15, so I don’t mind scuffing it up and priming over it but I just want to run into peeling or bubbling down the road. I know it’s difficult to get the zinc chromate these days.

 

[warrpath4x4]

@ryoken thanks for the quick reply!

I’m not sure if I’ll strip it all the way down. Ideally I would like to since that’s what I did for the body. In that case, yeah, epoxy is the way to go. Do I need to be concerned about removing the hangers and body mounts that are riveted that I was going to retain?

The PO had done some type of paint. Maybe POR15, so I don’t mind scuffing it up and priming over it but I just want to run into peeling or bubbling down the road. I know it’s difficult to get the zinc chromate these days.

I cant answer as if its needed or not but i remember seeing someone years ago blow all the crossmembers and brackets off and reinstalling them with grade 8 hardware after paint

 

[ryoken]

@ryoken thanks for the quick reply!

I’m not sure if I’ll strip it all the way down. Ideally I would like to since that’s what I did for the body. In that case, yeah, epoxy is the way to go. Do I need to be concerned about removing the hangers and body mounts that are riveted that I was going to retain?

The PO had done some type of paint. Maybe POR15, so I don’t mind scuffing it up and priming over it but I just want to run into peeling or bubbling down the road. I know it’s difficult to get the zinc chromate these days.

it's always a question of "how anal".......


as my builds indicate, I tend to go overboard... just remember, you have zero control of what's going on under whatever you leave. or how your products will react to it..... reminiscent of the old lacquer/enamel cringefests that used to happen...

no matter how good the materials you put on top, you can get failures.... that's why when I spend reasonable coin on epoxy, 2k, paint, etc, I like to know it's starting from clean raw steel...

always makes me laugh when I see these guys go thru the trouble to blast a frame, than put Gods juic, ummm por15 on it... go thru that trouble, put a quality coating system on....

obviously blowing all rivets, hangars, etc is a nice way to go, you'll have all properly done surfaces once together... but is it worth it just for that sandwiched area? more than likely not, if you don't suspect major rust.. or need to for fab reasons, etc...

 

[vdamirth]

it's always a question of "how anal".......


as my builds indicate, I tend to go overboard... just remember, you have zero control of what's going on under whatever you leave. or how your products will react to it..... reminiscent of the old lacquer/enamel cringefests that used to happen...

no matter how good the materials you put on top, you can get failures.... that's why when I spend reasonable coin on epoxy, 2k, paint, etc, I like to know it's starting from clean raw steel...

always makes me laugh when I see these guys go thru the trouble to blast a frame, than put Gods juic, ummm por15 on it... go thru that trouble, put a quality coating system on....

obviously blowing all rivets, hangars, etc is a nice way to go, you'll have all properly done surfaces once together... but is it worth it just for that sandwiched area? more than likely not, if you don't suspect major rust.. or need to for fab reasons, etc...

I have a tendency to go overboard.. there’s no kill like overkill.

@warrpath4x4 I just blew a 1990 club car ds all the way to nothing but the frame and replaced all the hardware and bushings.

It’s not that much more work for the piece of mind of getting this frame to raw steel, starting with epoxy primer and then attaching everything back with Grade 8 hardware. A few days and a few more dollars… I know lock washers are frowned upon, do y’all suggest pinch nuts or nylocks?

Definitely gonna do the ORD upper hangers now.

'73-91 GM Front Upper Shackle Hanger Kit

Includes greasable bushings and bolts and hardware to attach bracket to the frame.

www.offroaddesign.com

The might as well mindset says do these tension hangers too. I already have ORD springs for the stock tension hangers and it looks like these will let me do a little level tuning if needed.

Thanks guys

 

[ryoken]

i definitely prefer pinch locks to nylon..... I often run the "heavy" nuts when available at McBible......

 

[vdamirth]

i definitely prefer pinch locks to nylon..... I often run the "heavy" nuts when available at McBible......

Thanks. Pretty well-versed with ole McBible from the days at the manufacturing plant. My welding/fabrication buddy has a good hardware connection too. I’ll get a materials list together and compare.

 

[ZombieK5]

Put the rolling chassis in the garage and got the body mounted to a rotisserie. There’s a guy nearby that has a dustless blasting setup and so I took it to him. After cleaning that up we sprayed it with epoxy primer and based on the recommendation of my engine builder friend I took it to a shop for some body work. I’m really jealous of some of the skills many of you guys have when it comes to welding and body repair. I can build you a house, or a furniture grade bar or wrench all day but I haven’t learned those metal working skills quite yet. I keep telling myself that’s my next personal education goal.

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How stable was the body on the rotisserie when you moved it on when you moved it on the? I'm faced with the same scenario where I need to take the body to a

 

[vdamirth]

@ZombieK5 I was a little nervous transporting it but it did fine. I removed the center caster on the rotisserie and strapped it down very well. If your trailer is wide enough securing some blocks to the left and right of the rotisserie casters may be helpful but I didn’t do that.