1979 K-10 Stepside Shortbox - Beagle's Build -

[beags86]

So another thing I have been looking at that goes into the "while I am in there, I might as well" category. I have been thinking about a whole brake line overhaul.
I figure that those brake lines are 36 years old and since brakes really are a safety item. It makes sense.

Inline tube has a complete stainless kit for 210 bucks...
Page 15..
http://www.inlinetube.com/PDF catalogs/Indv Vehicle Catalogs/ChevyTruck01.pdf

I could just pick up the kit to match the master...


I have to redo the lines in the back to match up with my disks on the rear....along with a proportioning valve for the rear disks.

 

[6872xtc]

I have bought stuff from Inline Tube for my '72 and my son put some of their lines on his '72. I like their parts. They are not 110% perfect, but pretty good. But then once you get stainless lines, then you need better looking clamps. (At least we did)

 

[beags86]

I have bought stuff from Inline Tube for my '72 and my son put some of their lines on his '72. I like their parts. They are not 110% perfect, but pretty good. But then once you get stainless lines, then you need better looking clamps. (At least we did)

What kind of clamps did you use?

 

[6872xtc]

I just cleaned and painted my factory parts. I think my son might look at the rubber lined ones. I am not sure yet. Cleaning the original stuff was easiest with a glass bead cabinet. I haven't found nice clamps yet.

 

[beags86]

I just cleaned and painted my factory parts. I think my son might look at the rubber lined ones. I am not sure yet. Cleaning the original stuff was easiest with a glass bead cabinet. I haven't found nice clamps yet.

Ha! that's the best part about working on a truck that's already been restored. No gunk. My clips are nice and clean and in good shape. But I am pretty sure the brake lines will happen at this point, I might run the rubber lined clamps, just depends on how I feel at the time I do it.

 

[beags86]

Some progress was made (still not a lot of spare cash at this point) barely worth posting about, but I digress.


De-greased the greaseball 205 I am going to use and refinished the stepside boards.
Along with some other small stuff.

 

[beags86]

And I put my nitrous kit on my 406.

I built this to support some spray, rings, forged pistons, head studs...Yada,yada,yada.

How does 624 horsepower sound?

But honesty I was just playing around. no gas for this thing right now...

 

[6872xtc]

If you want, I could exercise that bad boy in my '72! You know, keep the oil circulated!

 

[sreidmx]

What heads on that beast

 

[beags86]

If you want, I could exercise that bad boy in my '72! You know, keep the oil circulated!

Funny thing, the engine dyno operator said this thing wouldn't run right at 4,728 ft.

What heads on that beast

They are Dart SHP (special high performance) part number 127322.

http://www.dartheads.com/products/c...ads/shp-small-block-chevy-cylinder-heads.html

They are actually a budget head. I really didn't want to break the bank with my head selection, so I thought that I would buy some cheaper heads and work them a bit. Honestly I did not do the work myself, I was afraid of ruining a $1000 bucks. The honor of that goes to SCH Racing Heads. He flow tested them, ported/polished the bowls and re-flowed them. We really didn't do much to them. They now flow 243CFM instead of 200CFM. I have $1324(for the pair) in them right now and their flowing as much as heads that cost $1000-1200 each.
Now, the trade off is that they are made of a lower grade(i.e. cheaper) Aluminum and there are some shortcomings in the combustion chambers and valve size, but overall I can't complain about them at all.

 

[sreidmx]

Nice heads dart makes a nice product. What cam did you go with and what's your static comp? Sounds like it's gonna be mid to high 9s with that smaller chamber. Please tell me you didn't put a b!tch cam in it..

 

[beags86]

Nice heads dart makes a nice product. What cam did you go with and what's your static comp? Sounds like it's gonna be mid to high 9s with that smaller chamber. Please tell me you didn't put a b!tch cam in it..

Static comp is right at 10.0 - 1

91-93 octane pump gas friendly

I don't believe this is in the b!tch category:

Crower Cam

Chevrolet Hydraulic Roller Camshaft
Part Number: 00469

Performance level 3 - High Lift - Slight lope at idle, needs headers, 2500 stall recommended.

INT/EXH - Dur @ .050” Lift: 230°/236°
RR: 1.5/1.5
Gross Lift: .544”/.555”
LSA: 110°
RPM: 2300 to 5900
Redline: 6400

Webpage.

http://www.crower.com/camshafts/chevy-262-400-series-350-high-lift-hyd-roller-cam-18493.html

 

[beags86]

Looking for input.

Opinions and thoughts welcome.

Ok, so while back I decided to switch away from my NP203 and run the NP205 sitting in my shed. It was leftover from a '80 I parted out years ago. The thought process was that I didn't want to run the full time system I had before.

The truck will be receiving a 4L80E at a minimum (6L90E)down the road. Along with a doubler. My thought was to get a 4L80 and use my range box off my 203 and swap it out while using the 205 for the doubler. Now I can use on box to build the complete setup and just swap them over.

Anyway, my 205 I have currently was sm465 combo. Meaning I need the adaptor and the coupler. (Pics a few posts back) I found a adaptor from sweetk30 for $180 (thanks for the offer) but I would still need the coupler. At a price from $80 to $110 depending on what you buy. So I would roughly be into it for 300 bucks.

So right as I am going to pull the trigger on the adaptor and I run across a complete t-case with t-350 adaptor and coupler for $300. So after a few days of back and forth with the seller. I was able to get the done.

So the new case has a fixed yoke. (Pics below) The old one has a slip yoke. So what are the pros and cons on the slip vs. the fixed yoke? I am guessing my drive shaft will need to be lengthened? If I run the fixed yoke can I run a cv joint in the back? If I can, should I?

 

[82355]

Fixed is better.

You can run a CV in the rear, you just need the right CV and output yoke.

Martin

 

[82355]

I could have bought like three TH350/NP205 NP205's and adapters the other day for $150 each. If I had known you were looking, I might have.

Martin

 

[beags86]

I could have bought like three TH350/NP205 NP205's and adapters the other day for $150 each. If I had known you were looking, I might have.

Martin

this doesn't surprise me at all, I could pretty easily find decent deals like that back in IL, Colorado.....not so much

 

[beags86]

Fixed is better.

You can run a CV in the rear, you just need the right CV and output yoke.

Martin

I realize the fixed is better, no chance of it pulling out off road, but other then than that are there any other reasons?

any other thoughts on running a rear CV?

 

[ryoken]

slips suck.. they ALWAYS leak at some point... it's the nature, you've added a movement across that seal now for additional wear/fail..... that's why there's a million old cars around with oil "slings" on the floorboard there...

 

[82355]

Plus the slip yoke generally makes for a shorter driveshaft, which in turn causes angle problems.

Martin

 

[skunked]

any other thoughts on running a rear CV?

the CV is a good option for the higher angles, it really depends on the lift and length of the shaft.

From Tom Woods site