If it's not drive able by 2019 I got some serious issues...
CK5
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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)
- Thread starter Babaganoosh
- Start date
Hey Ben, if you get a chance. Could you put your axle to full bump and get me a pic of the shackle angle?
I'm worried I didn't build my front shaft with enough room for full bump because I've only had my bump stops to about 3" compressed and the grease mark on my splines are about 3/4 from running out...
I'm hoping after negative arch it's actually reversing the shackle angle and pulling the axle forward. But I can't really just go check that...
My front driveshaft measured 4" of travel at full droop from static, and only 2" of travel on full bump... Which is confusing me as I was picturing the axle moving backwards only on bump...
I'm worried I didn't build my front shaft with enough room for full bump because I've only had my bump stops to about 3" compressed and the grease mark on my splines are about 3/4 from running out...
I'm hoping after negative arch it's actually reversing the shackle angle and pulling the axle forward. But I can't really just go check that...
My front driveshaft measured 4" of travel at full droop from static, and only 2" of travel on full bump... Which is confusing me as I was picturing the axle moving backwards only on bump...
drew4x4
1/2 ton status
is that a front mount hitch receiver? did you make that or buy it?
that tie rod looks stupid strong
that tie rod looks stupid strong
I'm not sure my setup would help you, I designed the shackles to be at a 45 with the spring flat. I moved my shackle a inch or so forward.
Yes it is, it's a warn received mount for the 87+ body style. I'm going to try and make it work or sell it.
Thanks! The drag link is the same tube.
nothing but overkill for the mall crawler build.
Ok, I'm done messing with this pitman arm, it is driving me nuts. Do you guys think I have enough grab from the sector shaft?
The blue line is where it sits when the nut is tight and threaded up. At this height I have to use the puller to remove it. Does the arm have a taper? I can't tell...
Please say this is fine, so I can cut the dang drag link.
The blue line is where it sits when the nut is tight and threaded up. At this height I have to use the puller to remove it. Does the arm have a taper? I can't tell...
Please say this is fine, so I can cut the dang drag link.
Let me just say, I have stripped mine out twice. Stock and full depth.
Guess I should get that arm up even higher then!
Sucks so bad sitting on the ground with a file.
Sucks so bad sitting on the ground with a file.
andyblack
Registered Loser
It doesn't have a hole for a cotter pin and a castle nut?
Nope, I planned on getting a locking jam nut for it to replace the one I goofed up.
andyblack
Registered Loser
Hmmm. I don't really like the sound of that. I don't know if I would trust that. I like having that extra security. But I think the hole in the pitman arm is tapered, not the pitman shaft.
This is what Adams looks like using the same arm I'm using.
The factory 2wd didn't use a cotter pin either.
The factory 2wd didn't use a cotter pin either.
andyblack
Registered Loser
I didn't know that. Well his looks like it has about the same number of threads showing as yours does now. I guess with crossover and hydro, you won't have as much stress on that shaft.
I wont be running hydro assist at this time, think I'm going to try without it. Looking at my pic it looks like the sector shaft has the taper?
andyblack
Registered Loser
It appears so in the pic. I guess the 2wds are different.
some arms don't line up to old marks of were the original was .
if its on and you got threads past the nut and its tight then run it .
if its on and you got threads past the nut and its tight then run it .
It has 3-4 threads passed the nut when it's tighten, I would be able to sleep better if It had more grab on the sector shaft. It's in the same spot as my factory 2wd pitman arm is but this one has longer splines.
over 15 years working on this stuff . haven't ever seen one fall off yet.
if threads past and lock washer tight run it.
or hammer around the outside and tighten it a bit more to realy drive home the seat. but you might get few more tho of a inch to seat up more .
if threads past and lock washer tight run it.
or hammer around the outside and tighten it a bit more to realy drive home the seat. but you might get few more tho of a inch to seat up more .
I will have to try the hammer trick to go up higher. I forgot my impact at work so I can't let that thing loose. I was to tired and lazy to bring over the floor jack so I picked everything up and went inside.
I have about a qtr of a inch left on the arm to match the splines of the shaft.
I have about a qtr of a inch left on the arm to match the splines of the shaft.
After getting flat when the spring goes negative arch it gets short again.
And no need to verify you can take my word for it.
