CK5
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If I had it to do all over again I'm not sure I would go high steer. It is hard to get it all to clear. Although less trouble without leaf springs in there.
 
I did think about adding hydro assist with the high steer and thought it would be a pita with the ram. Hearing it is even harder on the knuckle then I will skip it.
 
On the flip side I wouldn't have crossover without assist. Especially with a front locker on a rig that will see reasonable amount of trail time. You know you lose some mechanical advantage with crossover vs factory.
 
Makes good sense. Save high steer for down the road when you're looking for something new to do and you're not already tackling a link setup.
 
Truth is I don't need high steer and probably not going to do it.

Didn't get any garage time today, didn't really feel up to it and I had to run errands. Even if I did step in I wouldn't have been able to accomplish much.
 
Had to get this off page 3:doah: Calling WFO tomorrow to see if I can get a arm by Friday which is my day off.

Friday I need to do a brake job on the lady friends Malibu and I'm going to start on the truck. Thinking I may need to raise the pan hard a little to match the angle of the drag link depending on how to arm is. Good thing it was just tacked on.
 
upon further inspection verifying part numbers with the order and the website I'm getting the correct arm.
 
Got the arm in today and ya.... I don't know what to do now... Just as I figured the arm and knuckle were all home made items. You guys can figure out the rest. :doah:

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That is the old home made arm... It's 3/4 of a inch thick and straight, Can't I just cut it at a angle to help the heim?

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I thought this hole was supposed to be drilled straight from the top looking down? It is drilled with the taper.
 
of course.. the taper wouldn't mean anything if the hole wasn't perpendicular to it...

I'm not sure what the whole double shear thing you have going on is with the giant bolt and heims, but it seems unneeded to me.. run the proper taper up top.. and the tie rod separate on the bottom imo...

I'm sure Wade or Chris will have the right answer tho..
 
It should be drilled with the taper. Is your issue that the bolt does not go through both the new arm and the tie rod hole? They won't with that setup.

Edit. He beat me to it. Double shear is not used with that arm.
 
It just looked really goofy to me and I didn't understand thought they all were double sheered.

So what you guys are saying is run two desperate bolts?
 

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