CK5
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Now it's full done 2nd half of half done.

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Hows this look guys? May add a 3rd leg from the coil overs and the cross bar, I'm not sure.

Would I be able to build the frame plates around the shock hoops tack welded on the frame? They are a pain to remove and try to tack on by myself. :doah:

How is this for shock hoops Greg? I knew you called me out and this is my reply.
 
I can picture how I would do it but it's tough to explain. Basically, do your straight cross bar, but then have a tube about 18" inboard of the hoop on the cross bar that goes down to midway up the forward portion of the hoop. This would get some triangulation going to help steady the hoops.
 
I thought about something just like that but curious to see what others think about a 3rd leg on each side.
 
IMO if you weld the hoops to plates, that are welded to the frame, and have a cross bar.... It is plenty good.

The shocks will only have vertical force on the hoops, no side loading etc... So just worry about getting good welds to the plates and to the frame, and get the cross bar in.
 
IMO if you weld the hoops to plates, that are welded to the frame, and have a cross bar.... It is plenty good.

The shocks will only have vertical force on the hoops, no side loading etc... So just worry about getting good welds to the plates and to the frame, and get the cross bar in.

This, put it together and get it done!

Make a pre-run trip up in CO :deal:
 
Weld the hoops to the frame. Then fit the plates around them. Then fully weld. Make cross bar. Put the engine together and get it done. Not 1/8 inch or thinner.
 
3/16 and 1/4 is what I stock. I would use 3/16 for the hoops

IMO 3/16 is the perfect thickness for everything on a truck application. Not too thin, but not way overkill and heavy.

Engineer things correctly, and i see no use for anything thicker.
 
By fit plates around them you mean I can fully weld the hoops then start the plates? I'm hoping I don't have to remove them again.
 
By fit plates around them you mean I can fully weld the hoops then start the plates? I'm hoping I don't have to remove them again.

Yes. weld hoops to frame, then cut the plates to fit around the hoops, weld the plates to the frame and to the hoops, and call it good :waytogo:
 
K for some reason I was thinking I had to make a perfect hole in the plate then weld the hoop to he frame and slide the plate down.
 
K for some reason I was thinking I had to make a perfect hole in the plate then weld the hoop to he frame and slide the plate down.

Nah, just weld the hoops in, and then notch the plates to fit around and weld those to the frame and to the hoops.
 
I don't think a soul on here has ever used a notch template to notch tube....

Hmmmm, ever heard of a build called the "Might As Well" K5? :doah:

I use wrappers all the time for tubing, though not from BendTech software... I just make my own.

If you turn a template inside-out you can create a mirror-image notch for the opposite side. Saves a ton of tedious fitting.

Take some careful measurements of your intake, carb/EFI and air cleaner to see how much room you'll need. A straight bar may not leave you with enough room. Of course, if you build it too high your hood won't be able to close anymore.

-G
 
IMO 3/16 is the perfect thickness for everything on a truck application. Not too thin, but not way overkill and heavy.

Engineer things correctly, and i see no use for anything thicker.


Agree to disagree. Sometimes simple is better. Yes you could engineer upper link brackets using 3/16 but sometimes space is a factor. Use thicker material to use less material. For something as critical as suspension components I don't see why you wouldn't use 1/4. For the hoops that are distributing the force from the coil over to the frame you can use 3/16 just make sure every tie in place from the hoop gets plated.
 
I guess the great debate starts on thickness of material to use for plates.

Another thing remember where I melted the top portion of the frame a d rebuilt it using weld? The passenger side lands on it.:doah:

At least you guys have progress pictures to joke around about.
 
Ok I shouldn't say everything. I just preferr it for most things. Easier to cut as well, and to weld if your using a smaller welder.


Are you plating the top and sides of the frame Ben?
 

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