I was but 37's fit in
CK5
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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)
- Thread starter Babaganoosh
- Start date
y5mgisi
1 ton status
I would keep 35s to keep less worry in my mind. The 35s will be safer on yiur axles. And aren't you running 3.73s? 35s are about the limit for those gears even in low range. 37s would really be pushing it. And let's face it, with you driving, if it got dented on 37s,it would have gotten dented on 35s. You think of everything as being so permanent when it isn't. In other words, if you trash a door or a bed side, big whoop! Toss another one on and your done! Anyway, I would stick with 35s unless you really want to open the can of 37"worms.
I'm on the fence with it to be honest. I want to look at my options. I think 35's would be fine but Shawn is affraid I will want bigger and would have to regear again.
I'm shopping for a new aam disk brake 14.bolt. I'll most likely be regearing anyway.
I'm shopping for a new aam disk brake 14.bolt. I'll most likely be regearing anyway.
with being linked and actually being able to go fast ball joints and wheel bearings will last longer with 35's than with heavier 37's.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Dude, I beg of you, do yourself a favor and at least wear out a set of 35s. When that day comes, regear to 4.56 and get 37s. That is what will make your life the happiest. I promise.
Countless times but not with the new wheels.
I keep leaning this way but Shawn knows his stuff and he has solid good points. He said proportioned the truck screams 37's
This isn't a easy decision, maybe pricing and availability will sway me a direction.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
No doubt that Shawn is beyond smart and I'm certain he has perfectly valid points. But I just think that you will be happier on 35s at least to start with.
Better go ctms and chromos now in the 10 bolt if its gonna be locked. 37s are going to kill it.
Especially with that motor....
I'm going to do chromo's if I can find a cheap set, and we're thinking Spicer joints.
I knew this build was moving along too well again without a wrench being thrown into it.
The comment about wearing out a set of 35's first was spot on.
I blame Shawn lol I wanted 35's
supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
And I'm busted 
I'll step into the Lions den.
My thoughts and logic..
First tire size is actually a 345/75/16
36" tall and only 13.5 wide.
This tire also has 20/32 tread on this size.
With a tall skinny, he will have no more mass, possibly the same or less than a 35" general red label. I'm not just looking at the size but also the tire in question.
The truck being a long bed, his interest and commitment to wheel it light, I believe the tall skinny will be a decent performer and visually fit the truck.
For the axle shafts, zero reason not to do chromo shafts and it wasn't but a mere 10 years ago people wheeled hard trails on just that set up, beyond getting throttle happy it can very well be reliable.
With an arb, the load is minimized and you simply engage it to finesse a trail rather than hammer.
For U-joint I would do the Yukon super joints, happy medium between price and performance, just harder to grease.
Shafts, id do Foote domestic shafts and drag spares with Spicer joints in stock shafts along on far rides.
4.88 gears would be the safe bet, 5.13s offer some room for more giggles. Out top speed is usually 65 in town anyways.
4.88 gears do give you flexibility to drop to a 35 later.
I will concede on the ball joint argument, however we are talking about a tire that is similar to a meaty 35, synergy also makes some bomb proof ball joints.
I'll step into the Lions den.
My thoughts and logic..
First tire size is actually a 345/75/16
36" tall and only 13.5 wide.
This tire also has 20/32 tread on this size.
With a tall skinny, he will have no more mass, possibly the same or less than a 35" general red label. I'm not just looking at the size but also the tire in question.
The truck being a long bed, his interest and commitment to wheel it light, I believe the tall skinny will be a decent performer and visually fit the truck.
For the axle shafts, zero reason not to do chromo shafts and it wasn't but a mere 10 years ago people wheeled hard trails on just that set up, beyond getting throttle happy it can very well be reliable.
With an arb, the load is minimized and you simply engage it to finesse a trail rather than hammer.
For U-joint I would do the Yukon super joints, happy medium between price and performance, just harder to grease.
Shafts, id do Foote domestic shafts and drag spares with Spicer joints in stock shafts along on far rides.
4.88 gears would be the safe bet, 5.13s offer some room for more giggles. Out top speed is usually 65 in town anyways.
4.88 gears do give you flexibility to drop to a 35 later.
I will concede on the ball joint argument, however we are talking about a tire that is similar to a meaty 35, synergy also makes some bomb proof ball joints.
I'm scared with 10bolts/35s with a 5.3.... much less a 6.0 and 37s.
I think we should draw out of a hat to see what size tire to get. Who wants to start the live feed?
supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
What shafts, gears and rear axle?
His rear aam will be reliable
Front it a stronger 31 spline 10 bolt, with upgrades he should have some room for reliability with a selectable, skinny rubber and a light foot.
If you buy all those parts Shawn just mentioned, go for it. But i think thats gonna be a shocker when you see the cost of all that stuff added up.
supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
The bummer I see is just running 35's still doesn't equal reliability with stock shafts and joints
the arb let's parts live, and makes the truck idle/crawl over parts where others are forced to bump it or apply the throttle.
One option he can do is to do the gears and arb, and spend the 1000 on shafts and joints later
the pain with that plan is for a trip like moab or far trips I wouldn't want to be hinting for 31 spline 10 bolt shafts after I brake mine and my spare 1 day into a 5 day trip.
For me it's more about reliability, he likes the truck and want to practically be buried in it, if he later keeps blowing it up too much or wants to go bigger,a 2.0 rebuild with a custom retubed dana 50 or 60 would be a good option.
Completely agree, but pricing gears for front/rear, lockers (ARB at that) then a compressor system, chromos, joints etc. It adds up quick is all I was getting at.
If he can swing it, go for it, but last I knew he didnt even have a DD...
