hahha yaa, thats why it says in my sig in progress of 20 year restoration. I'm currently a full time student, so thats 60% of the reason why I don't have the money yet.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
1982 C10 Restoration
- Thread starter 1BadK-30
- Start date
**** i know, i had to dig in my buddies couches for my membership. YUCK
Wooohooo finally a update.
FREEEEEEBIE thanks puckster85
FREEEEEEBIE thanks puckster85
Dafey
1/2 ton status
Do you just spray the back or take it apart?before you put the gauges back in you should spray behind the gauges with crome spray paint to brightin it up
Was onetonK-30 a previous account or did you just change your user name?
Nice score on the freebie!!
Rene
Nice score on the freebie!!
Rene
Previous account, didn't get a 1ton like planned but got the family truck passed down.
I'm going to run it through the parts washer at work Friday to clean all the stuff off.
Dafey, you take out the gauges from the plastic holder and spray behind where the gauges laid in. If that makes no sense I can try to give you a better idea.
I'm going to run it through the parts washer at work Friday to clean all the stuff off.
Dafey, you take out the gauges from the plastic holder and spray behind where the gauges laid in. If that makes no sense I can try to give you a better idea.
Dafey
1/2 ton status
Ahhh thanks.
I picked up one of these today
Lincoln 220 ac-225 arc stick welder, for 200 bucks. I split it with Dad only been used about a hour.
Should be seeing some progress here soon.
Lincoln 220 ac-225 arc stick welder, for 200 bucks. I split it with Dad only been used about a hour.
Should be seeing some progress here soon.
That's a decent welder. Good score!
What are you gonna be using it for?
Rene
What are you gonna be using it for?
Rene
Dafey
1/2 ton status
Nice , now get busy so I have something to readI picked up one of these today
Lincoln 220 ac-225 arc stick welder, for 200 bucks. I split it with Dad only been used about a hour.
Should be seeing some progress here soon.
welding up all the drilled wholes. If anybody has any tips for doing this they are more then welcomed.
Dafey, I hope to fill in this thread with more then just dreams and rather progress.
drilled holes in what? sheetmetal or frame or? Stick is not a good process for sheetmetal, but for thicker stuff it's decent. It does take a bit more skill and practice though.
For filling holes one of the best methods is a dis-similar metal piece of backing. Definitely non ferrous. Generally aluminum or better yet copper. For holes, copper backing is easy to come by...pennies work great. Tack around the edge of the hole using the copper to keep from burning through. When the hole is filled knock the penny off and buff it with a grinder.
Rene
For filling holes one of the best methods is a dis-similar metal piece of backing. Definitely non ferrous. Generally aluminum or better yet copper. For holes, copper backing is easy to come by...pennies work great. Tack around the edge of the hole using the copper to keep from burning through. When the hole is filled knock the penny off and buff it with a grinder.
Rene
Last edited:
in the sheet metal.
You need a mig welder for that...sorry to break the news. 
Rene
Rene
hmm thats not good, now I feel like a moron. Can you explain why it won't work?
No need to feel like a moron, and you can still use that welder for a lot of things.
A MIG welder has much more fine control at the low end of the heat settings, and you can do a series of spot welds on the very thin stuff to keep from burning through the material.
A stick welder, you have to kinda scratch or tap the electrode against the steel to start the arc. Even at low heat setting by the time the arc is lit and you get sorted out you've already burned through the material. They do make some very small electrodes meant for sheet steel...but they aren't easy to use. You could try and practice on some spare body steel if you wanted...ask for 6013 electrode in 1/16" size. Set the machine to about 40-50 amps.
Rene
A MIG welder has much more fine control at the low end of the heat settings, and you can do a series of spot welds on the very thin stuff to keep from burning through the material.
A stick welder, you have to kinda scratch or tap the electrode against the steel to start the arc. Even at low heat setting by the time the arc is lit and you get sorted out you've already burned through the material. They do make some very small electrodes meant for sheet steel...but they aren't easy to use. You could try and practice on some spare body steel if you wanted...ask for 6013 electrode in 1/16" size. Set the machine to about 40-50 amps.
Rene
Hmmm, correct me if I'm wrong, but it is possible just very hard to do? I have a few doors I could practice on.
It is possible, and now that you have the welder anyways I would definitely try it. You might find a heat setting or technique that gets you the results you want. Just be prepared...because it isn't easy and you may get pretty frustrated.
Rene
Rene
Love those 82 front bumpers. I think that may be the only year the signals were in them. Looks bitchin with a billet grill.
