1983 K5 Blazer - new and need a little info

[rookie7]

Good morning!

This is my first post here on Colorado K5. I have spent some time reading and researching, but need some expert help on a few issues my blazer has.

Primary use: hunting transportation here in Georgia

Specs:

305
A/C - but doesn't work
auto
31x10.50 tires
and rust !

What I've done:

1. New battery
2. New pads on front brakes
3. Completely rebuilt rear brakes
4. Removed smog pump and sealed hoses
5. Fixed some rust on hood and side and gate
6. Replaced rear bumper

Problems:

1. Idles way too high - my Father thinks it may be an O2 sensor on the carb or something? Help here is greatly needed.

2. Rust - I'm working on that

3. Power steering pump leaks

4. Fuel gage doesn't read past a quarter tank - on the low side

5. A/C doesn't work

6. The exhaust stinks so bad you can use it as a pesticide

My ideas:

I had an '87 Toyota 4x4 that I put a weber carb on and it did wonders for how the truck ran. Thinking of putting an aftermarket carb on the K5 - just need some suggestions on a good, reasonably priced aftermarket carb. However, if the stock carb is good and just needs adjusting let me know.

I would like to simplify the engine i.e. pull all the smog equipment, charcoal canisters etc. and keep as mechanical as possible. I'm thinking of pulling out the catalytic converter. I just want the vehicle to run smoothly, not stink of exhaust - big issue here b/c I am a bowhunter - and I'd lilke the A/C to work.

I bought a 134a conversion kit. Does this work well on the K5s since it is an R12 system?

I'm sure I'll have more questions later. I appreciate any and all help.

thanks

 

[Cricket]

Welcome to the board, the guys in the Garage are second to none. If they can offer good advice they will. There could be a several reasons for the issues you describe, you'll have to do some troubleshooting.

The high idle could be a vacuum leak, make sure to check your vac lines and manifold.

The leaky pump could be old or loose power steering hoses, or a bad pump seal.

Fuel Gauge problem sounds like a bad sending unit.

 

[jonrpick]

Good morning!

This is my first post here on Colorado K5. I have spent some time reading and researching, but need some expert help on a few issues my blazer has.

Primary use: hunting transportation here in Georgia

Specs:

305
A/C - but doesn't work
auto
31x10.50 tires
and rust !

What I've done:

1. New battery
2. New pads on front brakes
3. Completely rebuilt rear brakes
4. Removed smog pump and sealed hoses
5. Fixed some rust on hood and side and gate
6. Replaced rear bumper

Problems:

1. Idles way too high - my Father thinks it may be an O2 sensor on the carb or something? Help here is greatly needed.

2. Rust - I'm working on that

3. Power steering pump leaks

4. Fuel gage doesn't read past a quarter tank - on the low side

5. A/C doesn't work

6. The exhaust stinks so bad you can use it as a pesticide

My ideas:

I had an '87 Toyota 4x4 that I put a weber carb on and it did wonders for how the truck ran. Thinking of putting an aftermarket carb on the K5 - just need some suggestions on a good, reasonably priced aftermarket carb. However, if the stock carb is good and just needs adjusting let me know.

I would like to simplify the engine i.e. pull all the smog equipment, charcoal canisters etc. and keep as mechanical as possible. I'm thinking of pulling out the catalytic converter. I just want the vehicle to run smoothly, not stink of exhaust - big issue here b/c I am a bowhunter - and I'd lilke the A/C to work.

I bought a 134a conversion kit. Does this work well on the K5s since it is an R12 system?

I'm sure I'll have more questions later. I appreciate any and all help.

thanks

Well if it's an '83, it shouldn't have an O2 sensor. Those didn't appear until 1987 when GM made the switch from carbs to TBI. Is this the factory Quadrajet carb?

If you're eliminating all the emission stuff to make it a full-time off-road truck, I'd go ahead and do as Jiminycricket said and start checking vacuum hoses. You can just pull off what you won't need.

The 1st priority is to get it running right, so I'd just hook up the bare essentials and add back what you need (like the vacuum advance for the distributor...that's good to have). Make sure the extra vacuum ports on the carb AND manifold are plugged. If you have the same manifold as I do, I believe there's a vacuum port somewhere behind the carb make sure it's sealed. Also, check around the base of the carb and EGR valve (if you have one) for leaks. You can do it by spraying carb cleaner around the base, and if there's a leak, the engine should surge a bit. A friend of mine using CO2 in a can, because it's non-flamable. The method of testing is the same, except it causes the engine to bog rather than surge if there's a vacuum leak.

From there you can start futzing with the carb. Someone may have set the idle high to compensate for a bad running engine, without actually addressing the problem.

I would almost be willing to bet $$$ that the exhaust problem is related, but wouldn't because I thought the same thing on my truck. Turns out that my rich exhaust is a cam that's inappropriate for a truck motor. In your case, I can't imagine that someone re-cammed your 305, so I'm still leaning toward a carb problem causing the condition.

Report back and let us know which carb you have and we can give more info

Also, what part of GA are you in?

 

[readymix]

The gas gauge is broken not the sender.

There is a crystal on the back of the gauge that has a crack in it. This causes the gauge to never read full but will still read accuratly after the level goes below where the gauge maxes out at.....in your case 1/4 full.

The easiset thing to do is just get a new gauge out of the junk yard. Simple and cheap fix.

 

[tRustyK5]

Second the gas guage itself being the culprit. i just fixed that in my '83 pick-up. Mine would only read about 3/8 of a tank at full, then as the tank got emptier it'd slowly go down towards empty. I put in another gauge and now it reads and works properly. Bad tank senders or ground problems cause the gauge to not work at all and the needle to be stuck on empty or full.

The stock Q-jet is about the best carb for your truck, but it sounds like yours needs some work. High idle could be vacuum leaks as mentioned, or the choke assembly could be inoperable or sticky. If the choke isn't working right it could be hanging up on the high idle linkage causing the high idle. It would also explain some of the bad exhaust smell problem.

Does the truck still have a catalytic convertor on it?

Rene

 

[rookie7]

The blazer does still have the catalytic converter on it. My biggest concern right now is to get it running correctly without all the smell of exhaust fumes - especially since it is my hunting truck. Bowhunting whitetails will not be effective at all if I smell like exhaust.

Where should I start first for looking for the problem?
thanks

 

[rookie7]

Discovered more holes of rust in it this weekend while out scouting. Do most of you guys order your stuff from LMC trucks? If not where? I need to get more weather stripping for the doors. Plus, the passengers side window is very hard to roll up. I'm going to take the inside panel off and give it a look.

I haven't yet had the time to check out the vaccum lines yet, but will this weekend.

Is there an air filter housing/option that I can buy that will be an open filter and a little smaller than the oe housing and filter?

JP, so what you are telling me is that I can take all of the vaccum lines off except the one connected to the distributor?

To answer your other question I live in metro-Augusta, Georgia.
thanks

 

[xanthias]

For the carb, if you don't have the time, inclination or knowledge to tear into it yourself, then the most thrifty option is to get a rebuilt quadrajet, which are widely offered.

Another, more expensive carb option would be the Holley Truck Avenger.

You said the exhaust stunk, but not what the smell was. Raw gas? Burning smell? Oil? I agree it's a good idea to simplify for an off-road rig. If you want to retain cats you can get new ones from summit and the like fairly reasonably.

I'd pull the plugs and look at them for fouling or other obvious signs of poor running conditions.

On the R134, you basically have no choice nowadays.

 

[rookie7]

Xanthias,

Most of my experience has been with a 1987 toyota 4x4 pickup where I replaced timing chain, head gasket, other gaskets, and the original carb with a weber. As far as knowing how to adjust a carb - I don't. I could figure it out though with some guidance.

I'll have to recheck the exhaust for the type of smell.

How much do rebuilt quadrajets go for and how much do the Avengers go for?

Also, what do you mean I have no choice concerning the R134? Meaning it's the only logical choice? Do I just change the fittings or is there an internal valve that has to be replaced too?

thanks for the help

 

[lectric80]

Converting to 134a is simple, but if you are going to do it, replace the condensor (in front of the radiator) with a newer unit designed for 134. They are far more efficient than the older designs. Replace the hoses for peace of mind, and longevity. Change the orifice to a new one while doing it, this will provide smooth refrigerant flow. From there add the new fittings to the existing R-12 fittings and it is ready for a vacuum and charge.

 

[rookie7]

I checked the level of freon in it the other day and it had enough to run the a/c system. However, when the truck was running and the a/c was on high the clutch on the compressor did not move or engage.

Know how I can trouble shoot this to see if I am going to have to buy a clutch or the whole compressor? Also there was a wire with a plug on the end of it connected to the compressor that wasn't plugged into anything.

Regarding the smell of exhaust - it is a gas smell. I'm going to ask a dumb question, but will new plugs help with this? As well as me trying to adjust the carb. I'm going to need help on adjusting the carb.

thanks

 

[jonathon]

I'm going through a lot of the same things on my '84, except all my emissions crap is already ripped out and the exhaust doesn't smell... still have to do the brakes and I'm dreading doing the rears...

As for the power steering leak... when you pull the pump to look at it, check the plug for the pressure line on the pump, it's at least 1"(I didn't have the right sized socket so I had to use a big crescent wrench to tighten mine up), mine was leaking bad right there. The PO really dicked up the pump, so I had to replace the hoses as well(all the nuts where rounded off). It seems to me that its worth replacing the pressure line assembly and the return hose if you pull the pump.. but I'm still learning this stuff too

 

[Thunder]

The statement in eariler post about Blazers not having 02 sensors in 83 is not correct.
Some 83 blazers and Trucks had computer controled carbs (CCC). These have 02 sensors, Cat convertors, AIR pumps and a computer. Most of these trucks were sold in California but some could have made it to many other parts of the country by now.
You can tell if you have a CCC truck by the Carb. If it has wires plugging into it other than the electric choke it is a CCC. These carbs can be very troublesome and when they go bad they usually run very rich.
If you have one of those carbs you can replace it with an older style non CCC q-jet carb.

 

[jonrpick]

The statement in eariler post about Blazers not having 02 sensors in 83 is not correct.
Some 83 blazers and Trucks had computer controled carbs (CCC). These have 02 sensors, Cat convertors, AIR pumps and a computer. Most of these trucks were sold in California but some could have made it to many other parts of the country by now.
You can tell if you have a CCC truck by the Carb. If it has wires plugging into it other than the electric choke it is a CCC. These carbs can be very troublesome and when they go bad they usually run very rich.
If you have one of those carbs you can replace it with an older style non CCC q-jet carb.

Where is this O2 sensor? My Quad had these extra wires you speak of. When I got the '86 factory wiring manual, the closest match I found to my truck was a V6 California truck. No idea why...

Ever since then, I have wondered about it though. It was originally a Knoxville Police Department (Tennessee) K5. Just made me curious as to whether it's common for gov't vehicles to meet Cali emmisions standards.

I found it strange that the truck is a plain-jane Custom Deluxe, with the only options being the G80 and A/C. Even the radio was just the am/fm model with the single speaker in the dash...rubber floor mat, vinyl seats etc...yet it had the more complex Cali setup under the hood.

Anyway... I'd love to see that there is an O2 sensor under there, but I didn't see one when I was looking for a place to put one (was planning TBI at the time).

EDIT: Also, it had an A.I.R. pump, and still has the cat. The ESC computer was hacked using the TSB method, so it essentially runs as a 4-wire ignition module instead of the 5-wire that's in it now.

 

[jonrpick]

Discovered more holes of rust in it this weekend while out scouting. Do most of you guys order your stuff from LMC trucks? If not where? I need to get more weather stripping for the doors. Plus, the passengers side window is very hard to roll up. I'm going to take the inside panel off and give it a look.

I haven't yet had the time to check out the vaccum lines yet, but will this weekend.

Is there an air filter housing/option that I can buy that will be an open filter and a little smaller than the oe housing and filter?

JP, so what you are telling me is that I can take all of the vaccum lines off except the one connected to the distributor?

To answer your other question I live in metro-Augusta, Georgia.
thanks

On the door window, you probably just need to grease up the track and gears pretty good. Get the white stuff...I think it's lithium grease ??? Sorry, just woke up, not enough sleep to think clearly just yet There's a track in the door that's horizontal, and has two plastic rollers in it. It's like a scissor action--as they get pulled closer together, the window goes up. So make sure the rollers are in good shape and lube it up. I just remembered, you can get the lithium grease in spray-can form, which makes it real easy to lube everything up. It's a common parts-store item.

As for the vacuum lines, you don't even need the one going to the distributor to make it run. If you pull any of them off the carb, cap off the fitting on the carb where they connect. You can buy the little rubber caps at most parts stores...like a little bag of them is a couple of bucks.

I'd probably actually do that--disconnect them all from the carb, and cap the fittings off. Just make sure you remember what goes where. There's more than one type of vacuum circuit on the carb. One is manifold vacuum, and therefore would have higher vacuum at idle, with less as the throttle plates on the carb open up. The other type (ported) starts at zero vacuum at idle and increases as the throttle plates open up. The latter is usually where the distro's vacuum advance is connected. Again, make sure you remember where stuff went when you disconnect it.

If it starts running better, you're on the right track. Even if it doesn't, at that point you've eliminated some potential vacuum leaks, and that's part of the process.