CK5
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1983 shortbed/ stepside build thread
- Thread starter rob h
- Start date
Ok so if I bought a b52 kit that would work. Your location looks like mine does, close. How do they ride on the road..? What do they come on..? I'm going to order new ones if they will work, also what little amount makes approx how much..?
Yes the B52 would work, or just build your own that's what I did.
I haven't had much of a chance to drive mine on the road. my rig is more of a trail rig and I'm still trying to figure out my propane adjustments and get it to run better.
I can tell you mine were a light spring rate 56" probably from a 1/2 ton or a van? I don't know what they came out of. I got them from a junkyard and they weren't in a vehicle when I found them. I ended up replacing the bottom leaf with a new one that was one gauge heavier and I added a leaf out of an old 4" lift spring that I had to stiffen them up some. I had a lot of body roll and I needed a little more height. I'm also running 1/2 ton 63s in the rear which are too soft in my opinion. So to answer your question of how do they ride - I think I've got them at a good balance point between flexy and still driveable on road for my purposes. I would agree with the consensus of most who have done a 53 or 56 swap in the front that you do sacrifice some streetability to get a flexy spring that works. I do not run any sort of a sway bar If you could come up with some sort of a sway bar that would have a quick disconnect you might be able to have the best of both world's.
As for where to source these springs new I've looked on some of the stock replacement spring websites like Suspension King and some other ones and they have good charts that show eye to eye measurements and center pin location along with spring rate. without looking I would say go with a heavier spring not a 1/2 ton application you can always take leafs out of a heavier pack if needed.
I hope this helps some. How much lift do your current springs have?
I haven't had much of a chance to drive mine on the road. my rig is more of a trail rig and I'm still trying to figure out my propane adjustments and get it to run better.
I can tell you mine were a light spring rate 56" probably from a 1/2 ton or a van? I don't know what they came out of. I got them from a junkyard and they weren't in a vehicle when I found them. I ended up replacing the bottom leaf with a new one that was one gauge heavier and I added a leaf out of an old 4" lift spring that I had to stiffen them up some. I had a lot of body roll and I needed a little more height. I'm also running 1/2 ton 63s in the rear which are too soft in my opinion. So to answer your question of how do they ride - I think I've got them at a good balance point between flexy and still driveable on road for my purposes. I would agree with the consensus of most who have done a 53 or 56 swap in the front that you do sacrifice some streetability to get a flexy spring that works. I do not run any sort of a sway bar If you could come up with some sort of a sway bar that would have a quick disconnect you might be able to have the best of both world's.
As for where to source these springs new I've looked on some of the stock replacement spring websites like Suspension King and some other ones and they have good charts that show eye to eye measurements and center pin location along with spring rate. without looking I would say go with a heavier spring not a 1/2 ton application you can always take leafs out of a heavier pack if needed.
I hope this helps some. How much lift do your current springs have?
My current springs are like 7-8 inch springs. I drove it as is for a bit and its a little soft, wouldn't take much to fix tho. So i was thinking i'll remove the body lift, put stock fenders on it and see where i'm at. Might be able to run a shorter shackle too. If i do that stuff i can leave the current spring setup on it, add a set of better stiffer valving shocks and it might drive fine. Like a set valved for it, maybe like kings, fox etc....i'd say foa but i went that route and they sucked ass. When i remove the body lift i'll pull the gas tank too. I will get a new tank and pump setup that will work for a 6.0. I should have a complete 6.0 from an express van with cable throttle. Its complete, harness, accessories, fan, alt etc. That mated to my sm465 with 37s and 456 gears should be pretty decent to drive daily.
Here's the long shackles, I know I can go shorter too. I'm going to drill new holes n move the springs up. That will mess up angles but that's ok. I'll get the proper shims. Might even be able to take the front shims out.
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I sold the bogger's last night, it sits on 235-85-16 rollers. I'm finally going to remove the body lift and drill new holes in the shackles like i said months ago. My goal is to get it lower and more stable, i hope drilling new holes works. if it does i'm going to cut em off and round the edges like they are now. This way the front shackle will be 5.25 long, its 7 now. The rear will be a 4 inch and its 6 now. If that works i'll re shim the drive line angles and get the axle angle to where it drives decent at 4-6 degrees. After that new shocks will be needed, i will pick up something good with the proper valving...after that we will see if i need a swaybar. How long are the factory front shackles..?
When i get ride height taken care of the motor will get swapped out to a 6.0 with the 4spd, depending on the tires either 35s or 37s should work good with the 4:56s.
When i get ride height taken care of the motor will get swapped out to a 6.0 with the 4spd, depending on the tires either 35s or 37s should work good with the 4:56s.
I tried drilling new holes in these shackles 2 inches shorter, it didnt work out. At 1st there was 3/4 of an inch of room and I though perfect, until I jumped up n down on the bumper...boom spring eye on the frame. So I think an inch longer will do the trick.
I was thinking tho, I could keep these springs but get the shackle angle more vertical since it's almost on a 45 with a b52 kit. Then I can for sure run shorter shackles. The only other idea without moving the rear mount will be to run dodge rear 52s.
I ended up using shorter shackles and putting a set of heavier valves bilsteins on the front. Sits almost an inch lower up front now. I bought a pair of new front fenders so I can remove the cut outs and the rear flares. Next on my list is pull the body lift off. That should get me to about 6-7 inch lift. That should get me to where I can run 35-37s.
As for the 358 and the propane I'm pretty sure it will be pulled out and all sold. That's a toss up, do I pull the motor apart and change the pistons or do I just sell it and put a 5.3 or 6.0 in it.
As for the 358 and the propane I'm pretty sure it will be pulled out and all sold. That's a toss up, do I pull the motor apart and change the pistons or do I just sell it and put a 5.3 or 6.0 in it.
For 7 years this sat in the garage with little tires on it. The garage it was kept in had to be sold. So it sits back outside. I was shocked, fired up immediately and drove right out. I did change the propane fuel lines, bed cover and put a set of 37s on it. The throw out bearing screams real bad tho, I picked up a new clutch and flywheel...thats next on agenda.
Its a shame for this thing, it will be fixed soon. Im going to put new fenders on it and see how the 37s look, if still too tall then ill remove the body lift. The shocks are looking rough, ill swap those out with bilsteins.
Its a shame for this thing, it will be fixed soon. Im going to put new fenders on it and see how the 37s look, if still too tall then ill remove the body lift. The shocks are looking rough, ill swap those out with bilsteins.
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Clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and flywheel are done. The adapter was broke at the one mount. I had to swap it out, I never had the brace tho and probably needed it.
A few small things done, changed the shackles to 6.5 eye to eye and I think these are it. They dont hit the frame and it flexes fine with them. I removed the trail gear 2.0 hydro assist, drives on the road much better without it. Steers nice lock to lock and its no longer slow. Lastly I had an old set of dual steering stabilizer mounts so I ordered a pair of new shocks for it.
Next I picked up coated headers and a 2.5 exhaust kit. Its getting dynomax turbo mufflers so its quiet once again..lol. Also needs a drivers side floor pan and cab mount. That just came from amd yesterday.
Next I picked up coated headers and a 2.5 exhaust kit. Its getting dynomax turbo mufflers so its quiet once again..lol. Also needs a drivers side floor pan and cab mount. That just came from amd yesterday.
