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1984 CUCV

ORD Lift, NV4500 Swap, Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4 EFI

SuperAwesomeDOOD

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SuperAwesomeDOOD submitted a new Build:

1984 CUCV

A couple years ago I went through my truck. This is an extension of dialing it in. The truck was stock with 60,000 miles except the previous owner had swapped in a 327 in place of the 6.2 and 3.73 gears in the D60 and 14ff.

At that time, I stripped the truck down and refinished items such as the chassis, stock 1-1/4 ton leafs, axles, and various other components. I put a new GM L31-R Vortec, Holley Sniper EFI with Dual Sync distributor controlling timing and a bunch of other boring restoration items.

Fast forward, I am looking to try some different stuff. For one, the springs are not so great without a load. I ordered a 3” ORD custom spring setup, longer shackles(not flipped), Bilstein 5100(5125) shocks which are supposed to be here the end of the month.

I’m also currently swapping in an NV4500 and rebuilding my 208 after finding a defect in the input seal. I don’t want the ATF in the 208 killing my nv4500.

Additionally, I’m trying Edelbrock’s new pro flo 4.
View attachment 360333
View attachment 360332 I’m also a member of GMSB and appreciate all the sources of input and help I can get. Thanks in advance!

Read more about this build here...
 

SuperAwesomeDOOD

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Everything is together and running. ProFlo4 is running well. I couldn’t get my Innova timing light to fire. Thought it was the MSD box, but it turned out to be my wires. Too much suppression for the inductive pickup to work. Put a cheap wire on the number 1 cylinder to verify timing and it worked right away.
D01ACD04-347D-441B-9ECF-7D4A9B7044ED.jpeg
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Finally figured out an upper radiator hose arrangement that didn’t involve one of the chrome ribbed jobs.
3B4FD277-67DB-4EB7-91A1-F9EF531E7243.jpeg

I really like the heat shrink hose clamps
02FB21C5-E6F5-4E1E-A26A-850FB73288A4.jpeg

Found a nice spot for the master cylinder reservoir.
93A4DA33-7D9C-4AC7-A5A9-62216895E567.jpeg

And secured all my wiring neatly.
CE4C7D33-04B7-4A6C-AE78-408CCEA34A99.jpeg

Question for the guys who know nv4500 transmissions really well...

Everything went together smoothly on the swap. I used all new parts. In fact, after my spring swap this weekend everything on the exterior and/or mechanical is new or has been completely rebuilt with the exception of the frame and body.

My trans seems to act normally. Except, when I let off or put in the clutch abruptly (in other words, go from a loaded state to an unloaded state with the drivetrain) there is a clunk. Almost the type of clunk a driveline makes behind a worn in auto when shifting from R to D. I’m confused, but it seems like backlash. The company I ordered it from said they’d have no problem warranting it, but to try driving it for 10-15 miles.

I’d like to avoid the downtime of another r&r and shipping to and from. Any suggestions?

In the meantime, I’m installing my ORD custom (Alcan) lift springs and Bilstein shocks this weekend.
 

SuperAwesomeDOOD

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I’m considering removing my rear bump stop perches, they probably won’t do much with my airbags installed right next to them and they look like the main reason u bolt flips aren’t recommended on 1-ton frames.
 

Fastereddie

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Everything is together and running. ProFlo4 is running well. I couldn’t get my Innova timing light to fire. Thought it was the MSD box, but it turned out to be my wires. Too much suppression for the inductive pickup to work. Put a cheap wire on the number 1 cylinder to verify timing and it worked right away.
View attachment 364840
View attachment 364836
Finally figured out an upper radiator hose arrangement that didn’t involve one of the chrome ribbed jobs.
View attachment 364835

I really like the heat shrink hose clamps
View attachment 364837

Found a nice spot for the master cylinder reservoir.
View attachment 364839

And secured all my wiring neatly.
View attachment 364838

Question for the guys who know nv4500 transmissions really well...

Everything went together smoothly on the swap. I used all new parts. In fact, after my spring swap this weekend everything on the exterior and/or mechanical is new or has been completely rebuilt with the exception of the frame and body.

My trans seems to act normally. Except, when I let off or put in the clutch abruptly (in other words, go from a loaded state to an unloaded state with the drivetrain) there is a clunk. Almost the type of clunk a driveline makes behind a worn in auto when shifting from R to D. I’m confused, but it seems like backlash. The company I ordered it from said they’d have no problem warranting it, but to try driving it for 10-15 miles.

I’d like to avoid the downtime of another r&r and shipping to and from. Any suggestions?

In the meantime, I’m installing my ORD custom (Alcan) lift springs and Bilstein shocks this weekend.

Looks like nice clean work there. I’ve never been around the 4500 so I’m no help there. I have heard some awfully clunky manual drivetrains that seem to keep on trucking though.
 

diesel4me

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Looks like the transmission moves quite a bit,maybe a mount has torn loose or the bolts backed off,or the T-case adapter bolts are loose.(they adapters crack too!).. ?..it appears to me in the video the transmission moved up almost 1" ,then "clunked" when it came back down on its mount when the torque load was removed..:dunno:
 

SuperAwesomeDOOD

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Looks like the transmission moves quite a bit,maybe a mount has torn loose or the bolts backed off,or the T-case adapter bolts are loose.(they adapters crack too!).. ?..it appears to me in the video the transmission moved up almost 1" ,then "clunked" when it came back down on its mount when the torque load was removed..:dunno:
It does move a little bit so that is one of the things I checked. All the bolts pertaining to the mounts were tight and I have new poly bushings on the transmission and the engine. I’ll take another look and reevaluate when I get home, but the transfer case bolts are tight and it is still sealed to the transmission.

But yeah, I see what you are seeing and thought there was a bit of excessive movement there as well.
 

skunked

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Thinking outside the box a little, is it possible the clunk is part of the drivetrain hitting the body? Secondly, have you considered the t-case? I know the 205's will make a clunk when they're worn out however I'm not too familiar with that 241 (or 208?) case. Have you tried 4wd to see if it still happens?
 

obijuank5

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Got a detroit? Those are pretty clunky under a manual.
 

SuperAwesomeDOOD

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One thing that popped into my head that I’ll look at when I get home...

In this incredible CAD drawing, the gray bit is my bushing. As you can see in the photo below, the bushing is taller than the gold zinc metal piece. So even if I torque the bolts pretty tight, perhaps those ridges may be responsible for some extra movement.

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102C3662-8AB0-441C-A9BC-56319639EF14.jpeg
 

centexk5

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The Detroit on mine isn’t even noticeable with an auto. The one in my dads bronco with a 5 spd is a clunky bitch.
 

SuperAwesomeDOOD

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Picked up the hardware for my leaf springs from RuffStuff specialties in Loomis. Hopefully I can get this all squared away this weekend.
153288A2-E72D-42A7-95D4-0C8FD713203D.jpeg
 

SuperAwesomeDOOD

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My driveway has a slight grade to it. I think I’ll point the nose downhill, put it in 4wd, disconnect the rear driveshaft and back up the driveway to see if I feel the clunk still. I figure the grade is enough to keep the np208 tail housing pointed uphill so all the fluid doesn’t immediately pour out.

Sound like a terrible idea?
 

SuperAwesomeDOOD

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The centering pic on my custom springs is too big for my Dana 60 perch. They measure .58” but the perch is only .50”

biggest bit I have is 1/2”. Good times.
 
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