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1984 vacuum hoses/plugs and wires

Mudslutk51984

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I replaced all the old cracked burned broken hoses in my k5 350 carbureted. I also replaced the plugs and wires no cap or rotor. I set the gap to .40. Now the check engine is on and it’s sputters like pop corn. What happens if the plugs aren’t tapped right? Also I went by the vacuum hose diagram on the truck so I’m pretty sure I did it right. Is is possible that I hooked them up right and now a faulty part is being worked that wasn’t before??
 
It should run fine with the plugs gapped at .040--many small blocks used various plugs with gaps ranging from .035 to .080 and they ran fine,the only issues with the widest gap plugs was the engine tended to flood on a cold start easily on carbed engines,especially if the choke pull off didn't open up far enough right away..

I would agree with Rampage ,to look over the spark plug wires to be sure all are on the right plugs,sounds like one or more may have been put on the wrong cylinder and its firing out of time..
 
Highly doubtful....
If you are sure the firing order is correct (1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 ,clockwise rotation) and all the plug wires are on the correct cylinders,then you'll have to investigate further...it's easy to get #5 and #7 swapped and cause this..

I have seen plug wires that were routed right next to others and zip-tied together cause a plug to fire by induced voltage before--separating the wires by at least an inch or two prevents that..

If you still have an EGR valve ,its possible the vacuum hoses you changed may have gotten plugged onto the wrong spot and is making it open at idle...
 
No I checked the vacuum hose routed today and according to my sticker on the k5 they’re right. Plug wires also. Got a few pics how do I get them on here?!
 
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