I'd still like to order some of the tube doors before he completely quits doing them.
CK5
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1985 Chevy M1009 (CK5 build thread part 2)
- Thread starter cheavyk10
- Start date
I'd still like to order some of the tube doors before he completely quits doing them.
Suspicion's confirmed! Those are my sliders, Kert's wife Tracy called me today with the shipping cost details. I should get them via UPS maybe by the end of next week.
Yukon Grizzly Locker:
I've had this locker sitting on my shelf since January, and was really wanting to get it installed. Got some good weather today so I went for it.
I checked the backlash before disassembly and it came in at 0.012, within spec. But the thing that surprised me was there was little to no preload on the carrier bearings, I could actually move the carrier side to side a little bit. I expected the bearings and races to be roached, but they looked okay once I got it apart.
In it's new home:
It's all went back together good, I properly set the preload on the carrier bearings and set the backlash at 0.006. I was going to run a pattern but I didn't, it'll be fine.
My test drive went well, it definitely feels way different in an automatic short wheelbase rig compared to my manual long bed K10. For instance I have a short section of road by me with back-to-back s-curves and a 35 mph speed limit and I gave it some throttle through the turns. The Grizzly locked up and totally pushed Blazer through the turn with over steer. It'll just take some getting used to.
I've had this locker sitting on my shelf since January, and was really wanting to get it installed. Got some good weather today so I went for it.
I checked the backlash before disassembly and it came in at 0.012, within spec. But the thing that surprised me was there was little to no preload on the carrier bearings, I could actually move the carrier side to side a little bit. I expected the bearings and races to be roached, but they looked okay once I got it apart.
In it's new home:
It's all went back together good, I properly set the preload on the carrier bearings and set the backlash at 0.006. I was going to run a pattern but I didn't, it'll be fine.
My test drive went well, it definitely feels way different in an automatic short wheelbase rig compared to my manual long bed K10. For instance I have a short section of road by me with back-to-back s-curves and a 35 mph speed limit and I gave it some throttle through the turns. The Grizzly locked up and totally pushed Blazer through the turn with over steer. It'll just take some getting used to.
Drag Link:
The Blazer steers and goes down the road just fine but I still wanted to replace the drag link ends for peace of mind. I ordered up the standard Moog ends, and added the Offroad Design HD Drag link for push/pull. Upon disassembly I found the pitman arm side drag link end was definitely loose, so I am glad I went ahead with this swap.
Rear Shackles:
I found on the CK5 classifieds that @HI truck was parting ways with a set of brand new DIY4X HD rear Shackles, so I snapped them up. As a bonus they were already painted with some POR15. I am keeping the tension style shackle set up, and didn't want the ORD version, because they are 4 1/2" long, which would effectively lower my ride height by a 1/4 inch. The DIY4X shackles are 4" just like the stock shackles. I did go ahead and order the ORD greasable rear bushing kit so I will upgrade everything at once in the rear.
The Blazer steers and goes down the road just fine but I still wanted to replace the drag link ends for peace of mind. I ordered up the standard Moog ends, and added the Offroad Design HD Drag link for push/pull. Upon disassembly I found the pitman arm side drag link end was definitely loose, so I am glad I went ahead with this swap.
Rear Shackles:
I found on the CK5 classifieds that @HI truck was parting ways with a set of brand new DIY4X HD rear Shackles, so I snapped them up. As a bonus they were already painted with some POR15. I am keeping the tension style shackle set up, and didn't want the ORD version, because they are 4 1/2" long, which would effectively lower my ride height by a 1/4 inch. The DIY4X shackles are 4" just like the stock shackles. I did go ahead and order the ORD greasable rear bushing kit so I will upgrade everything at once in the rear.
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Sliders installed:
Finally got out of the drive way today and hit the local state forest to shake it all down. The M1009 is an absolute unit.
Also, rolled over 25000 miles:
Finally got out of the drive way today and hit the local state forest to shake it all down. The M1009 is an absolute unit.
Also, rolled over 25000 miles:
Soft Top Season is back!!
Spartan Locker and Inner Axle Seals:
The Dana 60 had started leaking gear oil out of the passenger side tube, and I had a Yukon Spartan Locker waiting to be installed, so I blew the whole axle apart Sunday.
Getting the carrier out was probably my biggest challenge, but I used a trick that @72gmck5 posted on (maybe?) an IG story, a winch. But he used the winch on the same vehicle (his Jimmy), I had to use the winch on my K10, which was unfortunately behind the M1009 in the driveway. And, the M1009 was facing the wrong way. So I ran the cable under the axles to the passenger side bumper shackle, then back to the carrier and looped the carrier with a soft shackle. I dropped the M1009 off the jack stands to the ground and chocked the wheels of both vehicles. The pull loaded the suspension of the M1009, and when the carrier came free it shot out of the axle. Luckily it landed on the cardboard I had laid out, and it was undamaged. Sketch level 1000%...
Once that was over, I popped the old inner seals out, which were nasty:
Then I spent a bunch of time cleaning the mud and rust out of the tubes.
I got new inner seals from ORD, and used an Amazon install tool to make it easy.
New Seals:
Installing the Spartan in the open carrier is a breeze, and I was able to get the carrier back in the axle using a block of wood and a mini sledge.
About to reinstall the caps: (and yes, I cleaned it all again)
I also found the axle shaft U-Joints to be stiff and rusty, so to save some time, I swapped in spare shafts with good joints I got from @fastazz81 awhile ago. I do have fresh U-Joints ready to swap in to the old shafts though. Since I was at it, I installed new slingers and spindle seals. And, needless to say, the wheel bearings got repacked and resealed too.
Shot the yokes and joints with some ODish paint:
The next leaks I will be tackling is the oil pan and rear main seal. I hate leaks.
The Dana 60 had started leaking gear oil out of the passenger side tube, and I had a Yukon Spartan Locker waiting to be installed, so I blew the whole axle apart Sunday.
Getting the carrier out was probably my biggest challenge, but I used a trick that @72gmck5 posted on (maybe?) an IG story, a winch. But he used the winch on the same vehicle (his Jimmy), I had to use the winch on my K10, which was unfortunately behind the M1009 in the driveway. And, the M1009 was facing the wrong way. So I ran the cable under the axles to the passenger side bumper shackle, then back to the carrier and looped the carrier with a soft shackle. I dropped the M1009 off the jack stands to the ground and chocked the wheels of both vehicles. The pull loaded the suspension of the M1009, and when the carrier came free it shot out of the axle. Luckily it landed on the cardboard I had laid out, and it was undamaged. Sketch level 1000%...
Once that was over, I popped the old inner seals out, which were nasty:
Then I spent a bunch of time cleaning the mud and rust out of the tubes.
I got new inner seals from ORD, and used an Amazon install tool to make it easy.
New Seals:
Installing the Spartan in the open carrier is a breeze, and I was able to get the carrier back in the axle using a block of wood and a mini sledge.
About to reinstall the caps: (and yes, I cleaned it all again)
I also found the axle shaft U-Joints to be stiff and rusty, so to save some time, I swapped in spare shafts with good joints I got from @fastazz81 awhile ago. I do have fresh U-Joints ready to swap in to the old shafts though. Since I was at it, I installed new slingers and spindle seals. And, needless to say, the wheel bearings got repacked and resealed too.
Shot the yokes and joints with some ODish paint:
The next leaks I will be tackling is the oil pan and rear main seal. I hate leaks.
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I used that winch trick to install a Spartan and new seals too.
What's the winch trick?
You use a winch to help pop the carrier out of the housing, where normally you would use a case spreader. The leaf spring is in the way of using the spreader when the axle is installed in the truck.
They way I remove the chunk is to put the appropriate sized wrench on one of the ring gear bolts and wedge it against the housing. Then take a big prybar to the opposite side and pry it out.
Will I need to do that or I can just install in rig?
You can install the Spartan with the carrier in the rig, I pulled mine out because of the leaking inner seals.
Thats what. I was going to do, just wanted to make sure. Ty
The M1009 is catching a ride to Blazer Bash this year:
I just picked up this '05 Dodge 2500 with a 5.9 Cummins and a 6-speed.
I just picked up this '05 Dodge 2500 with a 5.9 Cummins and a 6-speed.
My tow rig is also an 05 with the 6 speed. It has worked well with minimal issues. Injectors were the biggest repair (cost wise). No injection pump issues like the previous generation. And no OD issues with the 6 speed since the 6th gear isn’t hanging off the back. Just fill it up with an extra quart and send it!
We will have quite the convoy.
I iron-maned the trip to Moab two years in a row ('21/'22) in the K10, and I decided it was time for an upgrade. (And no more bags of ice on the floor for "AC" lol)
I'll be the scout car 
