man I NEVER would've thought the floors were gone in that! Happy to see a m1009 get saved, not many good ones left!
CK5
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1985 Chevy M1009 (CK5 build thread part 2)
- Thread starter cheavyk10
- Start date
It's not the worst I've ever seen, but it definitely needed to be fixed. Most the blame is moisture staying trapped under the rubber mat.
Amazingly, the rest of rig is super clean.
Oh I know. She looked great at BB
Alright, two coats of 383 on the drivers side. (A coat yesterday and today)
I'm stoked!
In case anyone is interested I used about 2 cans of rust converter and 4 cans of paint on the floor pan. (the Rapco cans are only 11 oz.)
Now the plan is to reassemble next weekend.
I'm stoked!
In case anyone is interested I used about 2 cans of rust converter and 4 cans of paint on the floor pan. (the Rapco cans are only 11 oz.)
Now the plan is to reassemble next weekend.
First drive in 3 months, and damn it made me smile.
Its super dusty and dirty from "body shop jail"...
I ended up putting the factory mat back in, for better or worse. I also freshened up the seat brackets with a quick spray paint. And yeah, those new door sill plates are way too shiny. The official GM gray mats look ok in there too.
Its super dusty and dirty from "body shop jail"...
I ended up putting the factory mat back in, for better or worse. I also freshened up the seat brackets with a quick spray paint. And yeah, those new door sill plates are way too shiny. The official GM gray mats look ok in there too.
You know, I was always under the impression that Washington state was this dreary, rainy area with cold snowy winters and I keep seeing these pics from there and it’s always a beautiful sunny day….perhaps I need a coast change!
This past week has been really clear and cold, down to the mid-20s here in Southwest Washington. Don't let it fool you though it rained everyday in December. Honestly Washington is awesome and has it all, from rainforest to high desert.
Man I wouldn’t worry about the factory mat being a problem as long as you pay attention to moisture. It’s the 30 years of no one caring about moisture that got it before!
Scuff and paint that thing, would look better I think then chrome.First drive in 3 months, and damn it made me smile.
Its super dusty and dirty from "body shop jail"...
View attachment 521101
I ended up putting the factory mat back in, for better or worse. I also freshened up the seat brackets with a quick spray paint. And yeah, those new door sill plates are way too shiny. The official GM gray mats look ok in there too.
View attachment 521102
Well, I am going to scuff and paint the exterior here when it warms up, but then I realized you were talking about the sill plates...
. The old ones were a nice weathered aluminum. Too bad they were cracked and broken.
First drive in 3 months, and damn it made me smile.
Its super dusty and dirty from "body shop jail"...
Makes it all worth it! Nice work!
I couldn't get the Wix fuel filter/glass bowl combo for the Stanadyne FM100 to quit seeping diesel at both ends, so I swapped it out for a Napa Gold 3546, and left the glass sight bowl off. Interestingly, the Wix 33546 (rated at 10 microns) didn't have the alignment tabs on the top like these filters are supposed to. I didn't think it was a big deal when I installed it. I'm wondering if this is Wix being made overseas now and the quality nosediving. The Napa version did have the tabs, is rated at 5 Microns, and after 25 miles of driving its still dry.
I also swapped on the new hubs:
I also swapped on the new hubs:
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Extra-long Fabricated Zero-Rates:
I saw this neat idea over on @AugustDiesel 's "BlueJay" build thread, and I took it and made it work for my M1009.
Here's the scenario: When I did the axle swap, I used Ruff-Stuffs spring perches, that are about 7.75" long, to help prevent axle wrap. And, to obtain the correct rear lift, I used ORD's Zero-Rates (black in the below pic) along with WFO's version (silver in the below pic) to achieve 1.5" of lift:
To utilize the entire perch, just as @AugustDiesel did, I made a quick order at Send Cut Send, of (6) 7.5 x 2.5 x 0.5 plates with a .375 hole in the middle. It's really cool to design stuff on their site. They had them to me in a few days, for about $114.
From there, I bolted three together and laid a few beads to get them glued up.
Hit each with the grinder, and beveled the top edge a bit:
And then some paint:
Once they dry, I will get them installed.
Kind of a fun little project!
I saw this neat idea over on @AugustDiesel 's "BlueJay" build thread, and I took it and made it work for my M1009.
Here's the scenario: When I did the axle swap, I used Ruff-Stuffs spring perches, that are about 7.75" long, to help prevent axle wrap. And, to obtain the correct rear lift, I used ORD's Zero-Rates (black in the below pic) along with WFO's version (silver in the below pic) to achieve 1.5" of lift:
To utilize the entire perch, just as @AugustDiesel did, I made a quick order at Send Cut Send, of (6) 7.5 x 2.5 x 0.5 plates with a .375 hole in the middle. It's really cool to design stuff on their site. They had them to me in a few days, for about $114.
From there, I bolted three together and laid a few beads to get them glued up.
Hit each with the grinder, and beveled the top edge a bit:
And then some paint:
Once they dry, I will get them installed.
Kind of a fun little project!
Fabricated Zero-Rates, Installed!
I like those zero rates! I went to install a NAPA 3546 filter the other day after removing a 3546 and the stupid thing wouldn’t go on. I was looking at index tabs and part numbers and finally figured out diesel had to be applied to the inner seal for it to slide on.
American Racing Baja Wheels:
I decided to switch up the wheels, and I stepped up to a set of 16x10 aluminum Baja's, in Matte Black, with 4.5 inch backspacing, to replace the 16x8 Black Rock steelies (also with 4.5" backspacing).
I was contemplating 17" beadlock's and 37's, but I want to run the 35" Mickey MTZ's a bit longer. These rims should give me a way better stance, and hopefully I don't have to trim much more.
Maybe I'll even put the white letters out this time!!
I decided to switch up the wheels, and I stepped up to a set of 16x10 aluminum Baja's, in Matte Black, with 4.5 inch backspacing, to replace the 16x8 Black Rock steelies (also with 4.5" backspacing).
I was contemplating 17" beadlock's and 37's, but I want to run the 35" Mickey MTZ's a bit longer. These rims should give me a way better stance, and hopefully I don't have to trim much more.
Maybe I'll even put the white letters out this time!!
New rim fitment:
I ran down to the shop to test fit the rims, as I was concerned that since the aluminum rims are thicker, that they may hit the factory brakes on the 60, but they cleared just fine.
The other thing I was worried about was the stud length, as again the mounting surface is thicker, but no issues there. There is absolutely no room to get a regular socket on the standard lug nuts though, so I ordered up a thin wall socket. If that doesn't work , I will go to different lug nuts. I really do not want the splined version.
Got a bit of stick out now:
I ran down to the shop to test fit the rims, as I was concerned that since the aluminum rims are thicker, that they may hit the factory brakes on the 60, but they cleared just fine.
The other thing I was worried about was the stud length, as again the mounting surface is thicker, but no issues there. There is absolutely no room to get a regular socket on the standard lug nuts though, so I ordered up a thin wall socket. If that doesn't work , I will go to different lug nuts. I really do not want the splined version.
Got a bit of stick out now:
You'd be silly not to.
I always like the long chrome lug nuts. Looks like they can be had in 3/4" or 7/8" socket sizes. They also come in black.
Those look good! There certainly is an abundance of selection out there, Amazon has a bunch of Chinesium versions which make me nervous.
