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1985 Chevy M1009 (CK5 build thread part 2)

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Engine Cross Member:
I also jumped on ORD's 4th of July sale, and picked up the big block engine cross member.
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It has a couple of advantages: obviously strength, clearance for cross-over steering with my low lift (hint for the future), and as a bonus, easier lift pump access, which as everyone knows, sucks with the factory x-member in place.
I run one of these on my K10, and have been happy with it.
 
ORD Engine Crossmember installed:
This took me awhile, but really wasn't too bad.
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The one issue that came up is the sway bar and disco on the drivers side will make contact at bump. But, when I do crossover, the sway bar has to go anyway. The reason I run the swaybar is to help level the front of the M1009 side to side, as the soft Skyjacker springs sit lower on the passenger side, due to the dual battery setup.
 
Rear Pinion Seal:
After checking the vent line, which was clear, I went for replacing the rear pinion seal. Everything came apart quite easy. I used the Army TM for a guide, scribed the pinion, nut, and yoke, counted the threads, and checked the torque required to spin the pinion in inch pounds with a beam torque wrench.
Well, the problem was obvious when I pulled the yoke off:
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Yuk. These pic's are after I had already sprayed it down with brake clean.
I didn't take any more pics, but reassembly was also easy, I juiced the splines with some blue loctite, and set the pinion nut just a hair tighter, to achieve the 1-5 additional inch pounds from the original reading, just as the TM describes.
 
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Rear Pinion Seal, part 2:
There was a pretty good groove worn on the yoke when I pulled it apart the first time, but I went for it anyway. Drove about 100 miles, and unfortunately still had a leak.
So, I ordered up a new yoke from ORD, the 1350 cast version with the U-Bolts, along with their seal kit that came with a new nut and washer.
I had it all back together in a few hours yesterday.
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So far, so good. On a side note, I had been running GLO's yoke girdles on the old yoke, and I can tell you the hex head socket cap bolts they include strip out super easy. So I was glad to upgrade to the U-Bolt style yoke.
 
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cheavyk10 said:
Rear Pinion Seal, part 2:
There was a pretty good groove worn on the yoke when I pulled it apart the first time, but I went for it anyway. Drove about 100 miles, and unfortunately still had a leak.
So, I ordered up a new yoke from ORD, the 1350 cast version with the U-Bolts, along with their seal kit that came with a new nut and washer.
I had it all back together in a few hours yesterday.
View attachment 532924View attachment 532925View attachment 532926
So far, so good. On a side note, I had been running GLO's yoke girdles on the old yoke, and I can tell you the hex head socket cap bolts they include strip out super easy. So I was glad to upgrade to the U-Bolt style yoke.
Click to expand...
I have a Spicer one. I need to install someday.
 
Belts, Part 2:
Last year, I had purchased an all inclusive belt "kit" from a vendor, as a one and done type of deal (installed in post #147 of this thread). Well, disappointingly, right off the bat, the belt for Gen 1 was too long, and was at the end of its adjustment. At idle, it bounced, squawked, and hit the radiator hose guard....no good.
Awhile ago, I was over on SteelSoldiers and saw a old post where a guy had figured out all of the proper Gates Fleet Runner belts for a CUCV, so I saved the picture and used it as my guide, and found them all on Amazon.
Here is that pic for reference, in case anyone else could use it:
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I can tell you they all fit quite well, and the innermost power steering belt required that I completely uninstall the pump to get the belt on the pulley.
Plus, they are green which is kinda cool.
On my M1009:
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