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1985 k30 budget EarthRoamer project [Deleted]

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Truckman4life said:
FYI you should never pay for a cat. There are always free ones. :haha:

Are you going to do a pass through from the cab to camper so you don't have to get out? That would solve cab size issues since she could just climb in back like a regular RV.
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Unfortunately we needed one that was hypoallergenic, so we got a Bengal, it’s a pretty cool looking cat I will say. And I told her when we got a house we could get one, so she bought me a brand new house a few months ago, I’ll let this one slide... hahah

I think I’m going to do a pass through, if I can make it work with the layout.
 
kennyw said:
I have a longer chassis available but I'm in WA state. I bought this truck for the drivetrain parts to build a shorter K30 cab/chassis truck which i have a frame for. Although if you are worried about destroying a nice truck, the body on this is not as nice. It doesn't have much for rust, just a worn out old work truck.

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I thought of this build when I saw you list this on Facebook.

Martin
 
I will also mention I’m working 6-7 days a week 12 hour days until about mid March then I have a few months off again, so for now this will just be a discussion and for you guys to help me with ideas. I do have today off though, so I’m going to price out 2” .125 aluminum square tubing. This will be our first summer since we both started making good money that we don’t have a large purchase also, 2 years ago was our wedding and last year was our house down payment. It I can keep this budget under those 2 we should be good!
 
So here’s my two cents about having a pass through. It’s not everything everyone thinks it is. My camper is wide open to the front seats. It does add to an open feeling for sure. But I very rarely use it for what it is. Climbing into the back from the driver seat is not fun at all. Having a full center console don’t help. Most that use it as a pass through delete the console to make going back and forth easier. Next is probably due to my size. 6ft tall and heavy don’t make it easy for this big boy. My skinny son can do it pretty easy though.

Having it open is more space to heat up when it’s cold. All that glass sucks the heat right out too. I have to drape a blanket over the opening from the upper bunk so it separates the cab area and I don’t loose as much heat.

The other thing nobody talks about is noise. You hear everything going on in the camper going down the road. Creaks and groans, gear rattling in containers, everything. I’ve taken big strides in packing stuff in such a way that it won’t create more noise so it’s fairly minor and nothing you can’t overcome with tunes at a conversational level. But compared to a camper that is closed off with little to no noise transfer to the cab you know it’s there.

If your pass through is only going to be the size of a slider back glass it probably won’t be used much if at all to climb in or out. If you can close the windows it will stop the heat loss and noise while going down the road.

The only one I’ve seen made useful is like what they used in the CUCV ambulances that had a large pass through and used bucket seats without a console. That would allow a better access point but require a seriously big hole to be cut in the cab to do it.

I like having mine open. But I don’t use it the way most people think they would. Given the small interior space of a camper in a Blazer the front seats get used to store stuff out of the way when you are in camp mode. I can reach them pretty easy from the back and not be taking up space on the bench or the countertop.
 
very unusual? The whole floor pan has shiny paint and is perfect other than the passenger side footwell is completely rusted through.
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Heater core would make sense. Looks like you can buy a replacement panel cheap. I’ll probably have to cut down the floor under the seats anyway to put newer seats or something that reclines, I didn’t realize how different the floors are in these than blazers. I remember how easy it was to mount NNBS seats in my k5.

I also need a good set of doors, both of these are rusted on the bottom and have been dented.
 
My M1028 had a water leak that I couldn't find for the longest time. When I replaced the windshield, I found one pin hole of rust at the top behind the gasket. Something like that is worth checking for.

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kennyw said:
My M1028 had a water leak that I couldn't find for the longest time. When I replaced the windshield, I found one pin hole of rust at the top behind the gasket. Something like that is worth checking for.

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I will definitely look into this.

Who knows about doors? Do I need to find door shells that had electric windows already or does the electric window stuff bolt in to any door? Also are 73-87 doors all interchangeable?
 
Or maybe I just order lower door skins for $25 a piece and replace them myself?
 
I’ll leave them for now, maybe be on the lookout for some decent used ones.

it’s too bad about the floor though, because this thing is stupid clean underneath.2A12B04B-F838-44FF-90BE-08293CDDC6E2.jpeg
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Still has the plastic pieces between the cab and fenderwell underneath, which I guess I didn’t even know was a thing, lol
 
My dad reminded me we have several breadvan bodies, so I guess that saves me some money on aluminum, can probably even use the aluminum floor too, if I cut the right part out it’s already got the wheel Wells for a dually also.
 
There's a place called C&C Equipment on YouTube doing a crew cab deuce and a half with a mechanical International DT466 and a 6 speed allison then adding a truck bed camper to make it an overland style rig. Should be cool.
 
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