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1986 K30 6.2 Diesel Truggy Build - "The Mule"
- Thread starter myhichevy4x4
- Start date
I have been talking with ORD about their custom springs. I have not ordered anything for the front yet.
My plan is to order a set of their custom springs ( I think they are made by Alcan) with about 5 inches of lift stock 47" length with the axle moved about 2-2.5 inches forward. I will also add their upper shackle hangar and super shackles too.
Shocks I will prob use the Ford shock towers with ORDs custom valved Bilsteins.
I am close to pulling the trigger on the springs because they are 4-6 week lead time.
I am hearing great things from people with the ORD springs but they are $$.
Steering will be full hydro PSC and I am debating Reid knuckles with the Artec double shear high steer arms but again $$$
Full hydro? Not planning on any street time?
Martin
Martin
I talked with Stephen from ORD about this very topic. The rig will be trailered to all events but it will still be tagged with Street Rod Tags. It will not see much street time maybe running errands around town, local cruise nights, etc. I am also running unbalanced beadlocked bias ply Pitbull Rockers.
Stephen said the full hydro is bearable on the street just not for highway use. He recommended the full hydro over the hydro assist because of the 42s and minimal street time.
herkdriver007
1/2 ton status
More details on the tow rig 
More details on the tow rig
Ok off topic about tow rig
Finally decided I needed a bigger truck due to family getting bigger (2 kids). I had a 1993 K1500 reg cab long bed that had over 260,000 miles on it and it was what I learned to drive in. It was starting to rust away and I was tired of borrowing my dad's 2500 every time I needed to tow something. It served me well RIP.
I knew I wanted a Crew Cab 4x4 2500HD and a duramax. After looking around for a while the only used ones I could find had alot of miles and were beat up or had no miles and were loaded and cost more than a new one.
The wife gave me the go ahead and I ended up with a brand new 2012 crew cab short bed LT Duramax 4x4. It has the bluetooth and the backup camera that is awesome when hooking up to a trailer. Factory 18s and the towing mirrors. So far I love it. Duramax has alot of power and tows great. I am a little disappointed in the fuel mileage. Best so far is 17mpg and I average just over 16mpg but it does almost weigh 8K. Worst fuel mileage so far is 14mpg towing 12k trailer.
I opted for the front bench so I can haul 6 people if needed and still have a nice fold down console.
Pic from the day I brought it home about 8 months ago. Since then I have added a trifold tonneau cover, spray in liner, step bars and an S&B intake which helped with the fuel mileage. Still getting used to the 6.5 foot bed but the 8 foot bed crew cabs are just too long for normal driving and parking.
PS notice the hot tub sitting on the flatbed of the mule in the background. And yes I did fill it sitting on the truck to test out the hot tub which works great!
Now back to our regularly scheduled build thread.
herkdriver007
1/2 ton status
Cool man, I dig it. Thanks for the post!
Ok I am still trying to get this thread caught up with the build.
Let's talk tires and wheels.
I was planning on trying to pick up a used set of 42s and run those. Well my BIL called me and said he found some Pitbull Rocker Blems for sale. 4x4 Group Buy had (4) 42x15x16 Pitbull Rocker Bias ply blems shown on their website for just over $400 a tire ($100 off per tire!!!). I immediately called Jason at 4x4 Group Buy to see if these were still available. He informed me they were and the tires were cosmetic blem only and still had full warranty.
I also was interested in some beadlocks and got a great price from Jason on four steel Allied Racing Rock A Thon 16x10 8 lug with 3.75" of backspacing.
I called the wife to explain how great of a deal this was and she let me pull the trigger on the wheels and tires. I really did not need them yet but I was not going to let this deal go. Shipping was not cheap but it was still a great deal. The beadlocks were backordered for two weeks but I was in no hurry.
Tires showed up truck freight only a few days after they were ordered and man did they look huge. I also still have no idea why they are cosmetic blem tires other than they are stamped Blem.
Sitting next to my old offroad truck dwarfing my 37" TSLs
Little fender trimming and they will fit fine!
Wheels came about 2.5 weeks later. After inspecting them I found one of the welds had a 1/4" hole in it and I knew it would leak air. I contacted Allied and sent that wheel back and it took almost a month to get straightened out but I finally got a replacement wheel.
First time mounting beadlocks and it took forever to get them torqued down.
Then I decided I wanted to paint the beadlock rings red. This is what they look like now.
I really like the red rings. They really stand out. I just scuffed them with a scotchbrite and used Rustoleum Professional Safety Red. I will be using this color to accent a lot of stuff throughout the build. They look orange in the pic but are a nice bright red.
Just as an FYI these measure at like 41.5" tall mounted on the 16x10s with weight on the tire at 10 PSI.
Let's talk tires and wheels.
I was planning on trying to pick up a used set of 42s and run those. Well my BIL called me and said he found some Pitbull Rocker Blems for sale. 4x4 Group Buy had (4) 42x15x16 Pitbull Rocker Bias ply blems shown on their website for just over $400 a tire ($100 off per tire!!!). I immediately called Jason at 4x4 Group Buy to see if these were still available. He informed me they were and the tires were cosmetic blem only and still had full warranty.
I also was interested in some beadlocks and got a great price from Jason on four steel Allied Racing Rock A Thon 16x10 8 lug with 3.75" of backspacing.
I called the wife to explain how great of a deal this was and she let me pull the trigger on the wheels and tires. I really did not need them yet but I was not going to let this deal go. Shipping was not cheap but it was still a great deal. The beadlocks were backordered for two weeks but I was in no hurry.
Tires showed up truck freight only a few days after they were ordered and man did they look huge. I also still have no idea why they are cosmetic blem tires other than they are stamped Blem.
Sitting next to my old offroad truck dwarfing my 37" TSLs
Little fender trimming and they will fit fine!
Wheels came about 2.5 weeks later. After inspecting them I found one of the welds had a 1/4" hole in it and I knew it would leak air. I contacted Allied and sent that wheel back and it took almost a month to get straightened out but I finally got a replacement wheel.
First time mounting beadlocks and it took forever to get them torqued down.
Then I decided I wanted to paint the beadlock rings red. This is what they look like now.
I really like the red rings. They really stand out. I just scuffed them with a scotchbrite and used Rustoleum Professional Safety Red. I will be using this color to accent a lot of stuff throughout the build. They look orange in the pic but are a nice bright red.
Just as an FYI these measure at like 41.5" tall mounted on the 16x10s with weight on the tire at 10 PSI.
Off topic we were on vacation in Las Vegas last week and we had a chance to do a helicopter tour of the Grand Canyon from Vegas. It is $$$ but well worth it.
Hoover Dam
Grand Canyon
Back to build thread. . .
Hoover Dam
Grand Canyon
Back to build thread. . .
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Tonight's topic the Exo and tube work (4 link and cutting the truck in half was already covered)
After cutting the frame of the truck the next step was to build the rock sliders / mini boat sides that the main hoop for the exo would attach to.
We decided to use 2 x 8 x 1/4" wall rectangle tube for the sliders. The rocker was cut out just below the factory door. In the winter I will still run doors because it gets cold here.
Rocker cut out and slider tacked in place.
With the door open you can get a better idea where the rocker was cutout. Notice that when the truck was painted silver they did not spray the door jambs.
The slider eventually got fully welded to the body all around and also 4 2x2 square tube outriggers per side were welded directly to the frame to tie the sliders in.
Here you can see the slider fully welded in. We also added the piece of 1 3/4 tubing and a step there to help keep trees and rocks out of the door. The front of the slider was left long and will be trimmed when I get the front fenders trimmed out to fit the 42s.
On to the tubing and exo
I don't have as may pics during construction as I wish but here are random pics of the progress.
In the last 2 pics you can see how the toolbox was dropped down in the frame and a second lower frame member was added for strength
The last pic shows the fuel cell mounting plate and if you look close you can see how the frame was plated where it was cut. Later we plated the inside of the frame C and also added a crossmember here too.
Originally I was planning on puting the fuel cell in the toolbox and I wanted to have room to lay the 42" spare tire down flat but there was just not room for that huge 42" spare so the spare will be mounted on an angle Baja style which left me room to add the fuel cell outside the toolbox giving me more room for tools and other stuff in the toolbox.
I will post more pics of the cage work tomorrow.
After cutting the frame of the truck the next step was to build the rock sliders / mini boat sides that the main hoop for the exo would attach to.
We decided to use 2 x 8 x 1/4" wall rectangle tube for the sliders. The rocker was cut out just below the factory door. In the winter I will still run doors because it gets cold here.
Rocker cut out and slider tacked in place.
With the door open you can get a better idea where the rocker was cutout. Notice that when the truck was painted silver they did not spray the door jambs.
The slider eventually got fully welded to the body all around and also 4 2x2 square tube outriggers per side were welded directly to the frame to tie the sliders in.
Here you can see the slider fully welded in. We also added the piece of 1 3/4 tubing and a step there to help keep trees and rocks out of the door. The front of the slider was left long and will be trimmed when I get the front fenders trimmed out to fit the 42s.
On to the tubing and exo
I don't have as may pics during construction as I wish but here are random pics of the progress.
In the last 2 pics you can see how the toolbox was dropped down in the frame and a second lower frame member was added for strength
The last pic shows the fuel cell mounting plate and if you look close you can see how the frame was plated where it was cut. Later we plated the inside of the frame C and also added a crossmember here too.
Originally I was planning on puting the fuel cell in the toolbox and I wanted to have room to lay the 42" spare tire down flat but there was just not room for that huge 42" spare so the spare will be mounted on an angle Baja style which left me room to add the fuel cell outside the toolbox giving me more room for tools and other stuff in the toolbox.
I will post more pics of the cage work tomorrow.
So like I said earlier I don't have as many pics as I wish I do of the truck when working on the tubing. The pics in the last post are pretty much what I have. Oh and the tubing is almost all 1.75" 0.120" wall tube with some 1.50" 0.120" wall tube mixed in. The "decking" is 10 gauge steel (0.1345").
Anyway Mike at DND had the truck for a few months finishing up the tubing and exo. These next pics are from the day I picked it up. At this time the truck did not run because the fuel and brake lines were cut. I picked it up and winched it on the trailer and then into my garage.
On the way home. Note all these pics are with no nitrogen in the air shocks so the rear suspension is at full bump. (As I found out I will need some other bumpstops to keep the 42s from rubbing the tube at full flex) I will point out some of the details in the below pics
This pic shows the lack of support of the upper shock mount. Once I got nitrogen in the shocks you could actually feel that upper tube move. This was loading the upper part of the Exo and making it flex. I plan on adding a tube straight down to the lower ladder frame to carry the weight. I will also add plate gussets to the shock mount itself. Right now that long upper tube is carrying all the weight of the rear of the truck.
Also if you look hard behind the fuel cell mounting plate you can see another crossmember and plate (right between the shocks) that is drilled to mount a suck down / rear facing winch. I still need to weld on some sort of support for a fairlead.
In this pic you can see the added rub rails on the side of the "bed" and the top of the cab exo. We added these so if they get dented they can easily be removed and replaced without being a structual member. I thought this was a nice little finishing touch.
From the rear. Tube work is very symmetrical.
Here you can see the front of the exo. I wish the front Exo bars were closer to the cab as they ended up like 2 inches off the body. They are also forward of the door a bit more than I wanted but in the end they work. I would like to eventually add the front bars to extend to the front bumper and add a windshield bar but that will be down the road. The exo is tied into the rockers.
Only needs a little trimming to fit those 42s in the front. Hopefully 5 inches of lift and moving the axle forward 2 inches or so will result in managable trimming to clear these massive 42s.
Overall very happy with the work that Mike at DND did. I will be adding some gussets and bracing to tie it all together and finish it off.
Anyway Mike at DND had the truck for a few months finishing up the tubing and exo. These next pics are from the day I picked it up. At this time the truck did not run because the fuel and brake lines were cut. I picked it up and winched it on the trailer and then into my garage.
On the way home. Note all these pics are with no nitrogen in the air shocks so the rear suspension is at full bump. (As I found out I will need some other bumpstops to keep the 42s from rubbing the tube at full flex) I will point out some of the details in the below pics
This pic shows the lack of support of the upper shock mount. Once I got nitrogen in the shocks you could actually feel that upper tube move. This was loading the upper part of the Exo and making it flex. I plan on adding a tube straight down to the lower ladder frame to carry the weight. I will also add plate gussets to the shock mount itself. Right now that long upper tube is carrying all the weight of the rear of the truck.
Also if you look hard behind the fuel cell mounting plate you can see another crossmember and plate (right between the shocks) that is drilled to mount a suck down / rear facing winch. I still need to weld on some sort of support for a fairlead.
In this pic you can see the added rub rails on the side of the "bed" and the top of the cab exo. We added these so if they get dented they can easily be removed and replaced without being a structual member. I thought this was a nice little finishing touch.
From the rear. Tube work is very symmetrical.
Here you can see the front of the exo. I wish the front Exo bars were closer to the cab as they ended up like 2 inches off the body. They are also forward of the door a bit more than I wanted but in the end they work. I would like to eventually add the front bars to extend to the front bumper and add a windshield bar but that will be down the road. The exo is tied into the rockers.
Only needs a little trimming to fit those 42s in the front. Hopefully 5 inches of lift and moving the axle forward 2 inches or so will result in managable trimming to clear these massive 42s.
Overall very happy with the work that Mike at DND did. I will be adding some gussets and bracing to tie it all together and finish it off.
So once I got it home next order of business was to get the seats mounted. I scored some lightly used Corbeau Baja SS seats from a guy and Mike at DND had made some mounts.
The seats are mounted to a frame that is tied though the floor to the sliders and also to the frame of the truck. Brackets with multiple holes were used to mount the seats so they are sort of adjustable. Behind the seats you can see the harness bar that is attached to the main hoop by hole sawing through the cab. I am going to add an additional brace to tie the harness bar to the seat mounting frame. There currently seems to be some flex in the harness bar mount when driving the truck around. I believe once I get the rear upper shock mounts braced better this flex will be eliminated.
The kids approve of the seats!
For Harnesses I bought the new Pro Armor 5 point harnesses. I have not mounted the lap belt yet because I want to add that bracing tube before I mount the belts. The shoulder belts will wrap the rear harness bar and the submarine belt will wrap the seat mount bar.
The drivers seat is at a good place when driving for me but it is hard to get in and out of because of the high side bolsters of the seats and a non tilt steering wheel. I may look into getting a quick disconnect wheel to ease that.
The seats are mounted to a frame that is tied though the floor to the sliders and also to the frame of the truck. Brackets with multiple holes were used to mount the seats so they are sort of adjustable. Behind the seats you can see the harness bar that is attached to the main hoop by hole sawing through the cab. I am going to add an additional brace to tie the harness bar to the seat mounting frame. There currently seems to be some flex in the harness bar mount when driving the truck around. I believe once I get the rear upper shock mounts braced better this flex will be eliminated.
The kids approve of the seats!
For Harnesses I bought the new Pro Armor 5 point harnesses. I have not mounted the lap belt yet because I want to add that bracing tube before I mount the belts. The shoulder belts will wrap the rear harness bar and the submarine belt will wrap the seat mount bar.
The drivers seat is at a good place when driving for me but it is hard to get in and out of because of the high side bolsters of the seats and a non tilt steering wheel. I may look into getting a quick disconnect wheel to ease that.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Cool updates. Its a struggle when you have someone do work on your stuff and its not quite what you hoped for.
Next thing was to get it running again. I purchased an aluminum RCI 15 gallon fuel cell from Summit with the GM fuel level sender in it already. I chose this cell because it had a screw off lid not the aircraft style, fit well into the space I had (or so I thought) and it had the GM sender so the factory gauge would work.
This is probably one of the better pics of the fuel cell installed.
So I got the fuel cell and went to sit it in place and it would not fit. The cell was a bit longer due to the welds in the corners and would not drop between the frame rails of the truggy. Since I bought the fuel cell powdercoated red I did not want to grind the welds smooth on the cell. On to plan B. I heated the section of tubing that would not let it drop in until it was cherry red and slightly flattened it. After I did this to both sides it fit great. You can hardly tell the tubing was flattened.
So the fuel cell sits on a 10 gauge plate and then there is another 10 gauge top plate. I will use all thread to tie these together and sandwich the fuel cell in place. Right now a ratchet strap will suffice.
On to the plumbing. AN fittings were new to me so I got to find out how quickly these 5$ and 7$ fittings add up.
The truck was a dual saddle tank truck with the selector valve. The selector valve is at the back of the cab on the passenger side frame rail. I removed the selector valve and found a 6 inch section of rubber hose in the feed (3/8" ID rubber) and the return (1/4" ID Rubber) right before the hard lines start. I decided this would be a great place to splice in. I used all Summit brand AN fittings and Summit brand -6AN Braided hose. I found the AN hose easy to work with when using the right tools. I used a grinder to cut the hose cleanly. For the vent line I will just use fuel hose over to a fuel filter. For now it just has a short section of line on it.
I was concerned how to prime the truck to start it after it had not run in over four months. These 6.2s do not have self bleeding injectors and I did not want to air lock it. So I used a trick I read somewhere. I dialed my air compressor regulator down to 7 PSI and I unscrewed the spin on fuel filter and proceeded to pressurize the entire fuel system after I filled the fuel cell through the rollover vent until diesel came spewing out the screwed off filter all over me and my garage floor.
After I cleaned up all the diesel I proceeded to try and start it. Oh yeah I also took the slip yoke off the driveshaft and put that back in the transfer case so I didn't spew fluid out when I started it. Hit the glow plugs twice and it started right up and never missed a beat since. The truck can sit for a week and will start right back up. I am digging the straight pipe V8 Diesel sound but it is a bit droneish in the cab for a long day of wheeling.
I now could move it out of my garage under its own power for the first time in 4 months. By move it I mean by driving the front wheels in four wheel drive because there is no rear driveshaft. Also not much for brake pedal feel because of the whole no rear brakes. I will be switching out the factory 205 for the Atlas in the future so driveshafts will wait until that happens.
Oh and just my luck the fuel sending unit that came with the fuel cell was no good and just read open all the time. Summit replaced it and now it works great with the factory gauge.
Almost caught the build thread up with how the truck sits right now.
This is probably one of the better pics of the fuel cell installed.
So I got the fuel cell and went to sit it in place and it would not fit. The cell was a bit longer due to the welds in the corners and would not drop between the frame rails of the truggy. Since I bought the fuel cell powdercoated red I did not want to grind the welds smooth on the cell. On to plan B. I heated the section of tubing that would not let it drop in until it was cherry red and slightly flattened it. After I did this to both sides it fit great. You can hardly tell the tubing was flattened.
So the fuel cell sits on a 10 gauge plate and then there is another 10 gauge top plate. I will use all thread to tie these together and sandwich the fuel cell in place. Right now a ratchet strap will suffice.
On to the plumbing. AN fittings were new to me so I got to find out how quickly these 5$ and 7$ fittings add up.
The truck was a dual saddle tank truck with the selector valve. The selector valve is at the back of the cab on the passenger side frame rail. I removed the selector valve and found a 6 inch section of rubber hose in the feed (3/8" ID rubber) and the return (1/4" ID Rubber) right before the hard lines start. I decided this would be a great place to splice in. I used all Summit brand AN fittings and Summit brand -6AN Braided hose. I found the AN hose easy to work with when using the right tools. I used a grinder to cut the hose cleanly. For the vent line I will just use fuel hose over to a fuel filter. For now it just has a short section of line on it.
I was concerned how to prime the truck to start it after it had not run in over four months. These 6.2s do not have self bleeding injectors and I did not want to air lock it. So I used a trick I read somewhere. I dialed my air compressor regulator down to 7 PSI and I unscrewed the spin on fuel filter and proceeded to pressurize the entire fuel system after I filled the fuel cell through the rollover vent until diesel came spewing out the screwed off filter all over me and my garage floor.
After I cleaned up all the diesel I proceeded to try and start it. Oh yeah I also took the slip yoke off the driveshaft and put that back in the transfer case so I didn't spew fluid out when I started it. Hit the glow plugs twice and it started right up and never missed a beat since. The truck can sit for a week and will start right back up. I am digging the straight pipe V8 Diesel sound but it is a bit droneish in the cab for a long day of wheeling.
I now could move it out of my garage under its own power for the first time in 4 months. By move it I mean by driving the front wheels in four wheel drive because there is no rear driveshaft. Also not much for brake pedal feel because of the whole no rear brakes. I will be switching out the factory 205 for the Atlas in the future so driveshafts will wait until that happens.
Oh and just my luck the fuel sending unit that came with the fuel cell was no good and just read open all the time. Summit replaced it and now it works great with the factory gauge.
Almost caught the build thread up with how the truck sits right now.
I am really very happy with the work he did and he is an excellent fabricator I would just have done a few things differently more of a hindsight 20/20. In the end he enabled me to build a way better truck than I could have done myself with my current skill set.
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Well work has been crazy lately so I have not had much free time but anyway on with some more pics of how it sits right now.
So I guess at this point I am now caught up to how the truck sits in my garage right now. The rest of the build will be slow. Lots more work to do . . . and lots more $$$ to spend on parts.
So I guess at this point I am now caught up to how the truck sits in my garage right now. The rest of the build will be slow. Lots more work to do . . . and lots more $$$ to spend on parts.
Next thing I want to work on is adding some bracing and gussets to the cage and exo.
So I needed to buy a tubing notcher. After reading some reviews I settled on the Woodward Fab cheap notcher.
The reviews on Pirate and other places said it was a decent notcher for the price. Well not the one I received.
When I opened the box the degree indicator stickers had fallen off. Ok no big deal. I also noticed the main frame is made out of bent 1/4" plate. Well the bends were not anywhere near 90 degrees and just clamping it on my workbench you could tell it was off.
The bends being off did not effect its function so no big deal. But the deal breaker was when I put a piece of tubing in the clamp and went to notch it the hole saw was offset a little over the wall thickness of the tubing or .120".
This was unacceptable. I did not get a picture of this but it was really far off center. Could I shim it out with washers? Probably but I should not have to. I also felt it would not hold up. I plan to buy a bender in the future so I wanted a notcher that would last.
I immediately called Summit and sent it back. Then I ordered the JD Squared Notchmaster and it should be here shortly.
Moral of the story is you get what you pay for and watch out for made in china Woodward Fab stuff.
So I needed to buy a tubing notcher. After reading some reviews I settled on the Woodward Fab cheap notcher.
The reviews on Pirate and other places said it was a decent notcher for the price. Well not the one I received.
When I opened the box the degree indicator stickers had fallen off. Ok no big deal. I also noticed the main frame is made out of bent 1/4" plate. Well the bends were not anywhere near 90 degrees and just clamping it on my workbench you could tell it was off.
The bends being off did not effect its function so no big deal. But the deal breaker was when I put a piece of tubing in the clamp and went to notch it the hole saw was offset a little over the wall thickness of the tubing or .120".
This was unacceptable. I did not get a picture of this but it was really far off center. Could I shim it out with washers? Probably but I should not have to. I also felt it would not hold up. I plan to buy a bender in the future so I wanted a notcher that would last.
I immediately called Summit and sent it back. Then I ordered the JD Squared Notchmaster and it should be here shortly.
Moral of the story is you get what you pay for and watch out for made in china Woodward Fab stuff.
the cheap notchers all work like that. It takes some shimming and messing around with them to get them to work well.
Most of us that buy those know that though.
You will love your new notcher but it also ( when you get into more complicated notching) has its limitations.
I use a cheap notcher and then finish my notches with a grinder, allows me to bevel the notch for a better looking weld. Really doesn't help much with penetration, but it does help when you are welding upside down with the torch 3 feet away from you squinting out of one eye using your other hand to balance your body and your legs spread eagle with your junk in dangerous proximity to falling RED FREAKING HOT slag
Most of us that buy those know that though.
You will love your new notcher but it also ( when you get into more complicated notching) has its limitations.
I use a cheap notcher and then finish my notches with a grinder, allows me to bevel the notch for a better looking weld. Really doesn't help much with penetration, but it does help when you are welding upside down with the torch 3 feet away from you squinting out of one eye using your other hand to balance your body and your legs spread eagle with your junk in dangerous proximity to falling RED FREAKING HOT slag
I figured all the cheap notchers were that way but the mechanical engineer in me could not deal with the poor construction.
I have seen/used the nicer notchers like the Notchmaster and I guess I was expecting the same quality but should have known better for the price.
I would love to find a used bender and die so I could build more stuff like the front half of the exo and a bumper but that is on the back burner until I get more done on this build.
So quick update. New tubing notcher came in and it is super nice. Works well and looks pretty pimp too 
.
Pricey but I like it so far. Very easy to use and super adjustable.
More Miscellaneous stuff I have bought:
Rear lights. LED the red ring is the running light and the center are red LEDs that are the brake and turn. These are super bright.
14 bolt pinion guard bought from Ryoken used (I need to get that orange painted over)
I also finished my nitrogen charging setup for the air shocks. I picked up a used Nitrogen regulator at my local welding store used for 50$ = awesome score. I used some hydraulic hose and hydraulic quick connectors because they are rated for more than enough pressure. Then to a ball valve and gauge with the poly performance fill valve.
.
Pricey but I like it so far. Very easy to use and super adjustable.
More Miscellaneous stuff I have bought:
Rear lights. LED the red ring is the running light and the center are red LEDs that are the brake and turn. These are super bright.
14 bolt pinion guard bought from Ryoken used (I need to get that orange painted over)
I also finished my nitrogen charging setup for the air shocks. I picked up a used Nitrogen regulator at my local welding store used for 50$ = awesome score. I used some hydraulic hose and hydraulic quick connectors because they are rated for more than enough pressure. Then to a ball valve and gauge with the poly performance fill valve.
