CK5
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1986 K30 6.2 Diesel Truggy Build - "The Mule"

Been helping out newoldscottsdale77 with his doubler install in my shop. Doubler is in and everything buttoned up. We were measuring for the front driveshaft yesterday. The forklift is super useful for that.


If you ever get Nicks truck like that again.....I'll pay you $20 to flip it over. :D
 
Got the axle back in the truck tonight. Has to come out at least one more time to have the shock brackets welded on and then paint.





Dang those 14" travel Bilsteins are long. Trying to get some measurements to see which universal shock hoop kit will work the best. May have to mount the shocks behind the axle and not use the knuckle gusset shock tabs.

 
are you against hoops and a hole in your inner fender for the shock to pass through? Not sure if that's possible with your batteries though.
 
are you against hoops and a hole in your inner fender for the shock to pass through? Not sure if that's possible with your batteries though.

No I am not against shock hoops or cutting the inner fenders. As far as the batteries there currently are two on the passenger side. The truck still has a factory drivers tray that is unused so in the near future I will have one battery on each side like it would have come from the factory. The battery trays should not be an issue but on the drivers side I have to deal with the steering shaft and the PSC steering reservoir. I unfortunately mounted the PSC reservoir pretty much in the same space that the top of the drivers shock wants to occupy or at least pretty close if I use the knuckle gusset shock tabs. Passenger side is wide open.

I was looking at universal shock hoops at first. Then I came across the universal tower type mounts (beefier versions of the ford shock towers). These are nice and take up a little less real estate but the off the shelf ones look like they would not clear the steering shaft on the drivers side. I also talked to Dueling about the shock mounts he designed which could work. So I am still measuring and staring at it for a while before I choose. Right now the universal shock hoops probably look like the best solution.
 
I am just going to leave this here . . .





Just in the mock up stages but I have decided to definitely put the turbo on!

I believe I have everything I need from donor 6.5s with the exception of some gaskets and an electric lift pump.



Going to need a spacer to get the injectors to clear the manifold for sure. I am going to order up some manifold gaskets and take them to work and draw up a spacer in CAD. I am thinking about making the spacer out of copper so it will act as a sealing surface too. Going to be more work to do this now but I did not want to design a shock tower or hoop that would impede the turbo later.
 
Looks like it will clear the a/c housing ok? I have a complete 6.5L out of a 1993 chevy I want to swap in some day.
 
Something like mine but taller will work.

I forgot to get a measurement. I think my shock eye is only like 6" above the frame rail.

If I did it again I would just bend up some tube though.
 
Looks like it will clear the a/c housing ok? I have a complete 6.5L out of a 1993 chevy I want to swap in some day.

This was a non A/C truck so it clears the heater box just fine. I believe that if it is an A/C truck the turbo does hit. I have the A/C compressor on there from the donor setup because I plan to convert it over for onboard air use like I did my previous truck.
 
Something like mine but taller will work.

I forgot to get a measurement. I think my shock eye is only like 6" above the frame rail.

If I did it again I would just bend up some tube though.

No prob looks like I need to be 7-8 inched above the top of the frame to get the most out of the shock travel. After seeing where the turbo sits I most likely will have to go with a hoop style shock mount.
 
Been a while and I thought I would update. Been collecting parts for the completion of the turbo install. I had done some mock up on the turbo stuff as shown above but I only had one bolt in the exhaust manifold. When I went back to stick more bolts in to check length I could not get the back bolts to start. So I pulled it back out and found this:



So the gasket fits the block and the old 6.2 manifold perfectly. But look at the gap on the bottom most port. No wonder the bolts would not start. I do not under stand this because I pulled it from my parts 6.5. But that motor was trashed and there is evidence that the manifold was very hot at some point. The sealing surfaces on the manifold were bad and very thin anyway. After looking locally for one I gave up and bought a re-pop off Amazon for $160.




The casting is pretty rough finish (inside and out) but the sealing surfaces are flat, it fits the gasket pretty well, and I can also get all the bolts started in the head. I had just finished tapping the EGT gauge hole. These are ready to go in my blast cabinet and then off to a coworker who sprays Cerakote to get coated on the outside along with the hot side of the turbo to try to cut down on some underhood heat. The manifold spacer to clear the injector lines is designed and just waiting for some free time to cut it out.

I also split the turbo for a rebuild. This turbo was probably usable as is but came off a high mileage truck (150k) and had some bearing play. I opted for a replacement cartridge from Rotomaster. I had some issues getting the clamp bolts out on the hot side and ended up cutting two of them off and welding nuts on and finally got them out.





According to the guy I bought the turbo from for cheap it was not building much boost and now I know why. The wastegate shaft had worn down and was allowing the wategate to sit crooked in the housing and not seal blowing by boost.



I am going to take it to work and either make a new shaft or try to weld up that one. New parts waiting on install.



Yesterday I got the mechanical lift pump removed and installed the turbo drain. That was a messy job as I ended up dumping about 2 gallons of diesel on the shop floor because somehow I started a siphon from the tank.



I removed that weird third battery tray and got the second battery and battery cables installed. Also started prepping to swap the intake manifold.



I decided to remove the 6.5 fuel filter tab on the manifold as shown because it interferes with the vacuum pump location. Bandsaw made quick work of that. After a quick degreasing it is ready to install.

 
Earlier this week I pulled the J code intake manifold and prepped to install the turbo manifold. I spent a few hrs de-greasing the new intake manifold and turbo parts.

The guys at work made me a new slightly oversize wastegate shaft. We enlarged the bushing to fit the new oversize shaft and welded everything back together. Works great now.

I spend this morning doing a little porting and polishing. I noticed that the turbo elbow and the turbo outlet had lots of casting flash. The elbow did not match up with the turbo outlet very well so I ported them to match. I also gasket matched the turbo inlet and exhaust manifold outlet. I didn't do anything too crazy just enough to clean everything up. I figured why not let it flow better since the GM3 turbo is not known to be the best flowing.

I spent the rest of the afternoon with the blast cabinet. First I blasted the exhaust manifold, hot side of the turbo, turbo elbow, and heat shield. These are getting dropped off with my co-worker Monday for Cerakote. Then on to the upper intake manifold and cold side of the turbo. These were pretty nasty looking and I couldn't just leave them.







So I pulled out the powder and an hour or so later they came out looking like that. Turned out great and even though the rest of the engine bay is cruddy these will stand out!
 
Glad to see its coming together still. Any plans on wheeling this year?

Nothing set yet but I am going to try to finally get this thing on the trail sometime this year :burnout:

To do list is as follows :
Finish installing turbo
Build exhaust
Build front shock mounts
Weld up tie rods
Finish plumbing full hydro
Finish up installing misc gussets/brackets on frame
Build new transfer case cross member
Build belly skid
Then the fun one prep and paint all the tube
Prep and paint axles
Bedliner bed panels and cab floor

Hopefully it will be a warm spring. . .
 
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