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1986 need new engine, whats best?

OP, if it were mine..... I'd r/r the valve seals and drive it til something else goes. This will buy you time to really figure out what you want. You can then take your time and piece together your project, be it a diesel swap, a BBC, or just freshening up what ya got.


^^^ This ^^^ :sign17:


When you do decide top do a swap, the 260 HP goodwrench engine does well. I replaced the 305 in my '85 grand prix with one and I could do burnouts easily, even with 10" rear tires. It was also very reliable for the 3 years I owned it after the swap- no issues from the engine at all. The cheap distributors I put in and the rebuilt transmission, well that's another story.
 
I'll also vote for the 260 horse GM crate. It was only 1499 with free shipping from Jegs,and I put in a Comp Xtreme 4x4 cam, new lifters, springs, and still came out hundreds of dollars ahead over the 290 horse engine, and I have a cam that is much better suited to a truck than the one in the 290 HP motor. It's been reliable, and I'll probably just end up putting on a set of vortec heads and leaving it at that.
 
I put the 260hp one in my kids blazer and its a sweet running engine. got some go too
 
Does gm update the crate motors to have rolling assys.? That is my mine decision on rebuild vs crate.
 
I know my kids isnt a roller motor:dunno: You do have to have a recipt for a new or rebuilt radiator and water pump for the warranty to be valid if needed
 
if its a 1 peice rear seal block you should be able to add the roller stuff later on.

i did this to a 350 truck tbi engine few years ago. as the block is set up for it but just got flat tappet cam as it was in a truck/van not a car.
 
You can buy retrofit roller cams, but they are more pricey and selection can be limited. Unless you are looking to run a radical grind, flat tappet is just fine and more economical.
 
I think the smartest (and easiest) thing to do is to move out of California... :waytogo:
 
You can buy retrofit roller cams, but they are more pricey and selection can be limited. Unless you are looking to run a radical grind, flat tappet is just fine and more economical.

Really? All I see every where is "OMG there is not enough zinc in todays oil. You are going to mess up your flat tappet motor running X brand oil!"
 
rotella:waytogo: Or valvoline VR1. But mainly its during break in thats crucial. I run rotella synthetic. Plenty of zinc:D
 
:dunno: I run 5w-40 synthetic in my burb. cant remember what it was when I ran non synthetic.
 
rotella:waytogo: Or valvoline VR1. But mainly its during break in thats crucial. I run rotella synthetic. Plenty of zinc:D

Yeah, maintenance isn't a big deal. There are a variety of readily available oils/ZDDP additives to take care of the break-in needs of flat tappet motors. I use zinc additive with every oil change, although I hear tell its not really necessary after break-in.
 
It is cheap and easy to build a roller motor with a newer block though.

Martin
 

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